Saint-Paul de Vence – A Gorgeous Day Trip from Nice, France

Saint-Paul de Vence is one of the most beautiful small towns on the French Riviera, and it’s so easy to visit on a day trip from Nice.

When I visited, I instantly fell in love with this charming old fortified village, surrounded by stone walls showcasing views of rolling hills and Provencal farmland.

As I spent the day exploring and learning more, I was also drawn to the town’s amazing artistic heritage, which started with a hotel that swapped rooms for works by up-and-coming artists, and grew to the endless collection of art galleries you can visit today.

You don’t need a car to visit Saint-Paul de Vence on a day trip from Nice. It’s easy to take the a public bus from Nice to Saint-Paul de Vence, and the trip takes less than an hour.  Keep reading to see the best things to do in Saint-Paul de Vence, where to eat during your visit, how to get there by bus, and even where to stay overnight if you end up falling in love with the picturesque little town.

Things to Do in Saint-Paul de Vence

Whether you come to Saint-Paul de Vence by car or bus, you’ll arrive at the north end of town, near Place du General de Gaulle.  Pass through the first set of ancient fortified walls and keep right, ducking under the arched entry way. In front of you there is a tower – go around the left side of the tower and you’ll find the Tourist Information office a few doors down.  Pick up a map and begin your tour of Saint-Paul de Vence!  You can follow any route you want, but I personally recommend the following Saint-Paul de Vence itinerary.

Walk Along the Ramparts in Saint-Paul de Vence

Saint-Paul de Vence is hilly, and my preference is to ascend the hill via the town’s outer fortifications, then weave downhill back to the entrance afterwards.  From the Tourist Information office, backtrack to Place Neuve, where you can follow along inside the ramparts for a few hundred meters, until you reach the stone stairs that allow you to climb up onto these narrow rock fortifications.

Be careful if you’re traveling with children (or if you have vertigo) as there are no guardrails preventing them from falling down onto the street.

You can walk along these ramparts until you reach the south end of town, at Place de l’Hospice (shown in the second photo).  You’ll have beautiful views of the surrounding countryside and villages along the way, and if you get an early start you could very well have the ramparts to yourself (I didn’t encounter anyone else while I was up there).  When you reach the thick stone arches shown above, take the stairs down to street level.

Marc Chagall’s Tomb in the Saint-Paul de Vence Cemetery

When you reach the south end of town, cross under the stone arch (Porte de Nice) and enter the Saint-Paul de Vence cemetery.  A few meters ahead of you, to the right, you’ll find the tomb of Expressionist painter Marc Chagall.  Many people are unaware that Chagall was born in Russia, into a Russian-Jewish family, which is why many visitors leave Stars of David on his tomb.

If you’re interested in learning more about Chagall, the Marc Chagall National Museum is located in Nice and is worth a visit.

Exploring Medieval Saint-Paul de Vence

You’re at one of the highest points in Saint-Paul de Vence as you exit the cemetery, so now is the perfect time to weave your way back downhill, through the historic medieval center, towards the north end of town.  Saint-Paul de Vence is one of the oldest towns along the entire French Riviera, so you can expect to see well-preserved buildings dating back almost one thousand years.

Chapelle Folon / Chapelle des Penitents Blancs

The area’s most famous chapel is not actually in Saint-Paul de Vence, but rather in nearby Vence, where Henri Matisse designed and supervised the construction of the Chapel of the Rosary.  If you’re coming by car it’s an easy ten-minute drive further down the road, but if you’re on foot the hike between the two towns takes about 75 minutes (to be fair, though, it’s not particularly difficult!).

Don’t worry if you don’t have time to get to Vence, however! Saint-Paul de Vence also has its own iconic, modern chapel: the Chapel of the White Penitants, also known as Chapel Folon.  You need a €4 ticket to enter this chapel, but it includes entrance to the town museum as well (more on that below).

Chapelle Folon features a huge mosiac and stained-glass windows designed by Belgian artist Jean-Michel Folon.  Most tourists don’t bother to buy a ticket, so there’s a good chance you’ll have this beautiful, contemplative space to yourself.

The Saint-Paul de Vence Museum

There’s no reason to buy a standalone ticket to the Saint-Paul de Vence Museum, but since it’s included in your ticket to the Chapelle Folon there’s no harm in popping in to escape the heat on a hot summer day.  Located in a traditional stone house (the old building itself is probably more interesting than the exhibits), the exhibits here include a series of mannequin-filled dioramas telling the story of the town’s history.

Art Galleries in Saint-Paul de Vence

It’s impossible to miss the many art galleries that line the old streets of Saint-Paul de Vence. Interestingly, although the town dates back to the medieval era, most of the galleries here are focused on contemporary art.  Most of the galleries are clustered along Rue Grande, where you’ll find works from well-known names like Chagall and Koons displayed alongside pieces by up-and-coming artists.

Saint-Paul de Vence is also home to many working artists, who display their creations in street-level galleries below their own homes.  This is a great place to pick up a landscape painting of the French countryside, or to find a beautiful piece of ceramics to gift to the person who has been looking after your home while you’re abroad!

Shopping in Saint-Paul de Vence

As you stroll through Saint-Paul de Vence’s charming cobblestone streets, be on the lookout for unique boutiques and shops that you can’t find anywhere else in France.

• At the south end of town, near the cemetery, La Maison Godet is an independent perfume house that has been operating for more than 100 years.  Their pretty storefront is shown above.
• If French cuisine has inspired you to up your cooking game, stop by Le Coutelier de Saint-Paul to choose the perfect handcrafted chef’s knife to bring home (just not in your carry-on luggage!).
• Maison Brémond 1830 is a local chain of high-end epiceries, or food shops, with an excellent selection of gourmet products from the South of France.  The region around Saint-Paul de Vence is particularly well-known for its honey, but I would recommend you take home a box of calissons, an almond-citrus candy that is the specialty of nearby Aix-en-Provence.

Things to Do Near Saint-Paul de Vence

Photo supplied by Fondation Maeght, copyright JJ Heretier

If you have a private vehicle, or some extra time, there are several worthwhile attractions in the areas immediately around Saint-Paul de Vence:

• Fondation Maeght – Perched high on a forested hillside about a kilometer before Saint-Paul de Vence is the Fondation Maeght, known as France’s first independent art foundation.  The focus here is on sculpture, with a spectacular outdoor sculpture garden and a remarkable indoor collection housed in a building designed by Catalan architect Josep Lluis Sert.  Check the foundation’s website before your visit to confirm opening hours and current exhibitions.  If the weather is agreeable, it’s about a fifteen-minute walk from town.
• Chapelle Matisse / Chapel of the Rosary – Further down the road, in the town of Vence itself, is the chapel that I mentioned earlier: the Chapel of the Rosary designed by Henri Matisse. Opening days and times change seasonally, so check their website before you go.  Walking from Saint-Paul de Vence to the chapel in Vence is a more significant hike, which would take most travelers about 90 minutes.  Check with the tourist information office to see if the trail is in good shape (it’s very slippery after a rainfall).

Restaurants in Saint-Paul de Vence

In my opinion, the best assortment of restaurants are clustered along the northwest ramparts, between Place Neuve and the stairs that lead up to the ramparts.

During my visit to Saint-Paul de Vence, I was enticed by the menu at Obatik, which focused on seasonal and local ingredients.  As you can see, the vegetarian salad plate that they served me was amazing.  They filled up shortly after they opened, so a reservation is highly recommended.

At the entrance to town, Cafe de la Place is a busy restaurant with a large terrace overlooking a shady boules court.  If you want a classic French dish like a croque-monsieur or steak frites, this is probably a good option.

For gelato, I recommend Dolce Italia, featuring a small menu of handmade ice creams.  Some of the other gelaterias don’t make their own ice cream, so be cautious with your cones!

Finally, I feel like I have to add Restaurant Le Tilleul, because it seemed like a pretty big deal based on the chaotic line forming in front of it during my visit.  You definitely need a reservation to eat at this popular establishment, named after the linden tree that stands in front of it.  Expect Mediterranean-inspired dishes and an expansive wine list at moderate prices.

Hotels in Saint-Paul de Vence

The most iconic hotel in Saint-Paul de Vence is, without a doubt, the Colombe d’Or.  This luxury property has 25 rooms at prices ranging from €250 to €430 per night (book via their website).  You don’t have to be staying here to dine at the hotel restaurant, but you do have to make a reservation well in advance as this place sells out quickly.

The attraction at Colombe d’Or is the hotel’s incredible art collection, featuring works by Miro, Leger, Picasso, Renoir, Chagall and others.  The hotel’s founder originally let these artists stay and dine at his property in exchange for their works, rather than money, which is how the collection grew to outshine many of the region’s actual art museums.

If Colombe d’Or is out of your price range, or already booked for the days you’re planning to stay, there are some other great Saint-Paul de Vence hotels worth checking out:

• Hotel Le Saint Paul is right in the historic medieval center in a beautiful historic building with a pretty outdoor breakfast terrace.
• If you’re staying in Saint-Paul de Vence for more than a day or two, you might want to choose a vacation rental like La Maison aux Bonsais, which is also in the historic walled center.  I like this location, just around the corner from the Chapelle Folon.
• For travelers coming by car, the areas immediately surrounding the walled city center have lots of beautiful countryside bed and breakfasts.  It’s a twisting ten-minute drive from town to the beautiful Bastide Nomade guesthouse, where you’ll find a tranquil garden and refreshing outdoor pool.

The Bus to Saint-Paul de Vence from Nice

It’s easy to take the bus to Saint-Paul de Vence from Nice.  The bus is #400, and the journey takes just over an hour.

Bus #400 to Saint-Paul de Vence departs from the Parc Phoenix tram station, shown above, which is southwest of Nice’s city center.  From the center, the tram takes about 25 minutes, so plan your departure accordingly.

At Parc Phoenix, look for the Bus #400 signs.  You can look up the bus schedule online here to plan your trip.  When I went, in the summer, it was standing room only on the bus, so get to the station at least fifteen minutes early if it’s important to you to have a seat.

I had a weekly travel pass during my stay in Nice, but this route was not included.  I had to pay the driver about €1.50 cash in each direction to take the bus from Nice to Saint-Paul de Vence (and back).

On your way home, to take the bus from Saint-Paul de Vence to Nice you just exit the historical town, cross the road and walk about fifty meters uphill to your right.  The bus stop is beside a stone wall, which is shown above.  Make sure you have cash to pay the bus fare!

Saint-Paul de Vence doesn’t have a train station, so your independent transportation options are limited to the bus or a private vehicle.

Nice is a great home base for day trips along the Riviera.  Check out my new guide to all the best day trips from Nice (including Saint-Paul de Vence, of course!).

Before you leave France, I also recommend you stock up on my favorite French pharmacy products (they are so much cheaper in France than abroad).

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