Paradiso November, 2016
Tana Toraja
Indonesian Tourist Gateway www.paradiso.co.id DIREKTUR
Igo Kleden info@paradiso.co.id
EDITOR
Tri Wibowo
bowo@paradiso.co.id
MARKETING MANAGER
Dewi Antini
dewi@paradiso.co.id
PHOTO CONTRIBUTOR
Sonny Tumbelaka
TRANSLATOR
Indira Sari Paputungan
Sales & Marketing
Misto
rEPORTER Finance & Accounting
Komang Wahyuni, Wiss Kedang, Dona Trihapsari
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Yudick Ariant
Distributor
Donny Sakura
CONTRIBUTOR
Christovao Vinhas Cok Dewi Modestus Suharman
Yuni Ariani
www.paradiso.co.id PT. Travindo Jaya Jl. Batas Dukuh Sari Gg Curik no. 11 Denpasar - Bali - Indonesia 80222 Phone : 0361 - 8474102 Fax: +62 361 8474102 Hp. 081339385058 w up : 081338306900 email : info@paradiso.co.id Bank Account : 097001023164531 Bank BRI Cab. Sesetan - Denpasar
Thanks To :
It is good news for Indonesian people and the world that on 9 August 2016 Terminal 3 Ultimate was officially operated by Garuda Indonesia for domestic flight. PT Angkasa Pura II (Persero) has confirmed the operation of new terminal with a length of 2.4 kilometers starts at 00.01 WIB (Western Indonesian Time). This is after Director General of Air Transportation for the Ministry of Transportation issued letter Number AU.508/1/1/ DRJU.DBU-2016 on 2 August 2016 on the operation of Terminal 3. Terminal 3 is declared as Indonesian Tourist Gateway. This becomes something remarkable concerning tourism potentials we have. It is about time for Indonesia to have something which becomes the representation of our pretension to develop our great potentials. Tourist Gateway is not ready instantly. On 26 July 2016, Tourism Minister Arief Yahya visited Terminal 3 Ultimate and observed various facilities at the terminal accompanied by Budi Karya Sumadi, who was still Director of PT Angkasa Pura at that time. He is the Minister of Transportation now. Arief Yahya said that he and Budi Karya Sumadi have agreed to call Terminal 3 as Indonesian Tourist Gateway. In the initial phase, the airline that will use Terminal 3 is only Garuda Indonesia and for domestic flights only. International flight still uses Terminal 2 while waiting for the facilities in Terminal 3 to be ready. With this movement, Garuda expects passengers to be able to enjoy the improvement of facility and standard of service given through the new terminal, which has the capacity of 25 million passengers. Terminal 3 of Soekarno-Hatta International Airport, a modern airport that represents local wisdom of Indonesia is projected to make the airport as transit airport to support economy and improve tourism sector in the country. Terminal 3 is also expected to take Soekarno-Hatta International Airport to compete with other world-class airports especially those in the ASEAN region. The presence of Garuda Indonesia at Terminal 3 is believed to be able to increase competitiveness, branding of Garuda Indonesia and the capability of the national-flag carrier as global player in aviation industry. The operation of Terminal 3 is a joint strategic step between the government and BUMN (State-owned enterprise) to increase the capacity and capability of Indonesian aviation. We hope with the new facilities and the status as Indonesian tourist gateway, Terminal 3 can become example for other airports in Indonesia to become gateway for tourists entering their areas and enjoying various tourism potentials there. *** Igo Kleden
www.paradiso.co.id
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Distribution Domestic: BALI - Kuta, Ngurah Rai Airport, Nusa Dua, Sanur, Denpasar and Ubud Area. JAKARTA - Tri Wibowo Hp. 081236044326. Surabaya - Jl.Jend.Basuki Rahmat 129-137, Surabaya 60271. Yogyakarta - Jl.Rumah Makan Gudeg 60 Citro, Laksda Adisucipto Km 9, Yogyakarta 55281, LOMBOK - Jl. Adi Sucipto No. 43, Ampenan - Lombok 83234 KUPANG - Jl. Walikota Kupang 13, LABUAN BAJO - Martin Meotoda, Ph. 081338151744 Overseas: Malaysia - maxiINFO, 32-3-1, Jalan Medan Putra 4 Medan Putra Business Centre. Off Jalan Damansara, 52200 Kuala Lumpur. Australia - 262 Wardel rd, Dulwich Hill-Sydney – NSW – 2203. Australia. THAILAND - 94/23 Wichitsongkram Rd. Kathu, Phuket 83120, WASHINGTON DC - 19233 - Wheatfield Terrace - Gaitthersburg, MD 20879. CANADA - 152, rue Notre-Dame est, 8 etage, Montreal, Qc, Canada H2Y 3p6. NETHERLAND - Vrijburglaan 72051 LA Overveen +31 235253619. ITALY - Viale Regina Margherita 270 - 00198, Rome, FRANCE - Europasia Commercial Agency, 15, rue Vallete 75005, Paris. GERMANY - Hattersheimerstr, 19, Frankfurt 60326. CZECH REPUBLIC - Na Zamecke 6/409 140 000 Prague Czech Republic, CUBA - Hotel Sevilla, Trocadero y Zuleta y Prado, 55, La Habana, Ph./Fax. +53 07 8669767. SLOVENIA - Kompas D.D, Prazakova 4, 1514, Ljubyana, Slovenia. CZECH REPUBLIC - Mr. Miroslav Radakovic, Na Zamecke 6/409 140 000 Prague Czech Republic, Ph. +420 261219316 - 19, Fax. +261 219320. CUBA - Viaggi del mappamondo - Cuba, c/o Hotel Sevilla, Trocadero y Zuleta y Prado, 55, La Habana, Ph./Fax. +53 07 8669767. SLOVENIA - Miss. Polona Pirnat, c/o Kompas D.D, Prazakova 4, 1514, Ljubyana, Slovenia.
Destination News
The Ancient Village of Ke’te Kesu’ in the Heart of the Toraja Highlands
K
e’te Kesu’ is a quaint, traditional village concealed in the mountainous region of TanaToraja, South Sulawesi. It sits amidst a vast expanse of rice fields, and is the oldest village in the Sanggalangi district. The village is over 400 years old, and is said to have not changed at all in the last 400 years. Ke’te Kesu’ functions as a sort of living museum, where one can experience first-hand the culture and traditions of the ancient Torajan people. Kete Kesu is probably most recognized for its fascination with death, as shown through their extravagant funeral ceremonies, hanging graves and decorative burial sites. The Ke’te Kesu’ are said to have the most well-preserved megalithic culture and death-celebrating traditions in all of Toraja. This timeless town is home to about 20 families. It is comprised of eight “Tongkonan”, set in rows facing each other, complete with connected rice barns. The walls of the Tongkonan are adorned with beautiful carvings and buffalo horns, which serve as a mark of the homeowner’s status. A Tongkonan is the traditional house of the Torajan people, distinguished by its oversized boat-shaped roof. The construction of 6 | Paradiso November, 2016
Tongkonan is a laborious task, and usually requires the help of all family members. In the original Toraja Society, only those of noble blood were given the right to build Tongkonan, while the common people lived in smaller, less elaborate houses. Not far behind the Tongkonan, menhirs rise from the rice fields, marking the way to the eerie hill of Bukit Buntu Ke’su. Bukit Buntu Ke’su is an ancient burial site, estimated at over 700 years old. The rocky hillside is scattered with human skulls and bones, some piled high into large canoeshaped vessels. The face of the cliff is hollowed with caves, which are ancient crypts. The caves were carved by masters of their skill, and take many months to make. According to tradition, those of noble status were buried in higher holes, while commoners rested at the foot of the hill. Torajans believe that the higher one is buried, the easier the pathway to Paradise. Haunting, life size tau-tau, which are effigies of the dead, perch high across face of the cliff. Built to resemble the deceased, they stand watch outside each tomb, as symbols of each cave’s “inhabitants.”Some of the tombs are secured with iron bars to prevent the theft of these. Coffins also
hang from the walls of the hill, shaped in various forms of dragons, pigs, and buffalo. The wooden crates were engraved with great accuracy and beauty, but are now crumbling with age. The people of Ke’te Kesu’ are renowned as highly skilled craftsmen. Unique ornaments of bamboo and stone are carved in abstract and geometric patterns, seemingly without the use of mathematical calculations. Many souvenirs can be bought in and around the Ke’te Kesu’ village including coasters, jewellery, wall hangings, tau-tau, and even traditional weapons. Coasters, bracelets and necklaces are sold for a few thousand rupiah, while intricate wall hangings and engraved paintings can be priced at a few million rupiah. One of the Tongkonan has been converted into a museum, displaying strange, historic objects of ancient customs. Chinese ceramics, sculptures, daggers and machetes, and even a flag, said to be the first flag flown in Toraja. The Museum also conducts bamboo craft workshops for those who would like to try their hand at this skill.
Destination News
Rafting Grade-5 Rapids on Toraja’s Sa’dan River
T
he Sa’dan river which follows the road as one travels up from Makale to Rantepao in the highlands of in South Sulawesi, is the lifeblood of the people of Toraja, as the Sa’dan irrigates the surrounding fertile rice fields and provides water for both humans and cattle in this largely agricultural land. The Sa’dan river has its source in the mountains north of Rantepao and is one of the longest rivers on the island of Sulawesi, flowing a distance of 182 km and measures 80 meters at its widest point. Along this long route, the river sometimes moves slowly over flat terrains, but more often rushes swiftly over big boulders and steep valleys, creating an unshakeable attraction to white water rafting afficionadoes. Rafting the entire Sa’dan river can take two days, offering challenges from grade 3-5, passing picturesque swathes of green ricefields, quaint traditional villages, steep gorges and high rocky mountains. It is, therefore, not a river for the meek nor for beginners. The Sa’dan river is the river for experienced and adventurous rafters. The rapids at Puru are grade three, the Seba Rapids are grade 4, with the fastest being
the Fitri rapids offering grade 5 challenges, sure to pump up your adrinaline. These grades mean that rafting on the Sa’dan can be difficult, has wavy, long, consecutivwe and strong currents, has dangerous rocks and in places has foaming whirlpool froth. The start of rafting is at the hanging bridge of Buah Kayu, north of the town of Rantepao, some 3.5 hours ride by four-wheel drive vehicle, and finishes at the Pappi bridge at Enrekang. Participants donot need to worry about accommodation, since there are many homes along the river to stay the night.
Get There Makassar, capital of South Sulawesi, is the entry point to the Toraja Highlands. As airline hub for East Indonesia, Makassar is served by many domestic airlines from and other parts of the country. The only way to get to the town of Rantepao in Toraja is by road, which takes about 8 hours from Makassar. From Rantepao to the start of your rafting expedition at Buah Kayu takes another 3.5 hours by four-wheel drive. There are buses available in Makassar that ply the Makassar-Toraja route.
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Photo by dutawisata.co.id
26 | Paradiso November, 2016
lomba lari maraton (42,195 kilometer) bertajuk “Borobudur Marathon 2016� di Kabupaten Magelang, Jawa Tengah, 20 November 2016 mendatang. Kepala Dinas Pemuda dan Olahraga Provinsi Jawa Tengah Budi Santoso mengatakan, mereka yang sudah melakukan pendafaaran secara manual maupun online melalui web borobudurmarathon.com atau borobudurmarathon.id.
Ke-17 negara yang sudah mengirimkan daftar nama atletnya di antaranya Kenya, Ethiopia, Nigeria, Prancis, Amerika Serikat, Singapura, Jepang, Malaysia, tuan rumah Indonesia. “Juara untuk kategori elit internasional pada 2015 yaitu Kenedy Lilian untuk putra (Kenya) dan Paninahkihen untuk putri (Kenya) juga sudah mendaftar,� katanya. Kemudian untuk elit nasional, yaitu Agus
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Photo by phinemo.com
Prayogo (Jawa Barat) dan Yulianingsih (Jatim) juga sudah memastikan ikut pada “Borobudur Marathon 2016” ini. “Kami menargetkan peserta untuk semua kategori jumlahnya 20 ribu pelari dan sekarang sudah masuk cukup banyak. Mereka biasanya mendaftar beberapa hari menjelang perlombaan,” katanya. Ia menambahkan, lomba lari maraton “Borobudur Marathon 2016” ini yang pertama sejak event yang sama digelar pada 1989, setelah itu lebih banyak untuk kategori 10 kilometer mulai 2014 kemudian pada 2015 untuk half maraton (21 kilometer). Pada tahun ini, kata dia, juga ada kategori untuk 10 kilometer, half maraton (21 kilometer), full maraton (42,195 kilometer), ultra maraton (120 kiloemeter), serta ambasador dan celebrity run (3 kilometer). “Untuk celebrity dan ambasador, kita berharap para duta besar dan artis yang tertarik lari bisa tampil di Borobudur,” katanya. Pada 10K, half marathon & marathon, Anda akan berkompetisi dengan ribuan pelari nasional dan internasional. Rute berbeda di setiap kategori. Jika ingin kategori yang lebih pendek dan fun, Anda bisa mengikuti lomba lari dengan jarak 3 km yaitu Ambassador Run. Sementara itu, Ultrathon yang menawarkan jarak 116 km akan memberi bonus para pelarinya berupa pemandangan indah dari pegunungan di Jawa Tengah selain Candi Borobudur. Menurut dia, start dan finis lomba yang akan dihadiri Menpora, Menpar, gubernur Jateng, serta para duta besar tersebut dilaksanakan di Taman Lumbini kompleks Candi Borobudur Mungkid Kabupaten Magelang, sedangkan total hadiah yang diperebutkan untuk semua kategori lomba Rp 4 miliar. “Hadiah ini lebih besar dibandingkan Jakarta Maraton dan Bali Maraton,” katanya. Nah, tahun ini Borobudur Marathon akan melombakan lima kategori. Yakni ambassador dan selebriti (3 km), 10 km, half marathon (21 km), maraton (42 km), dan ultramaraton (120 km). Lomba tersebut menjadi event bergengsi yang paling ditunggu para pelari tingkat dunia, apalagi hadiah yang disediakan panitia semakin besar, tahun ini dengan total hadiah Rp 4 miliar. Untuk kategori selebriti, artis Soimah dan para awak grup musik Seventeen telah menyatakan kesediaannya. “Tiap tahun jumlah pelari terus meningkat. Tahun lalu 16 ribu, sekarang kami menargetkan sebanyak 20 ribu pelari akan mengikuti lomba tersebut. Saat ini sekitar 6 ribu pelari telah mendaftar baik melalui online maupun mendaftar langsung,” jelas Budi.
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Budi menambahkan, event akan semakin meriah dengan digelarnya acara-acara pendukung. Di antaranya Borobudur Central Java Adventure Offroad (11-13 November), event sepeda BTN Tour de Borobudur (18-19 November), dan Borobudur Expo (17- 19 November). Sebulan menjelang berlangsungnyaBorobudur Marathon 2016, panitia terus mematangkan persiapan. Konsep sport and tourism akan digarap secarta maksimal. ’’Harapan kami, peserta luar negeri atau luar daerah bisa mengetahui potensi wisata Jateng. Sebab, rute yang dilalui menyuguhkan keindahan alam dan pariwisata Jateng,’’ paparnya. Esthy Reko Astuty, Deputi Bidang Pengembangan Pemasaran Pariwisata Nusantara, Kementrian Pariwisata Indonesia RI mengatakan promosi Borobudur dalam bentuk sportourism seperti ini menjadi hal yang penting, dikarenakan Borobudur menjadi salah satu dari 10 destinasi wisata prioritas yang dikembangkan dan dipromosikan Kemenpar. “10 Destinasi Wisata sebagai prioritas diantaranya adalah Borobudur, Mandalika,
Labuahan Bajo, Bromo – Tengger – Semeru, Kepulauan Seribu, Toba, Wakatobi, Tanjung Lesung, Morotai, dan Tanjung Kelayang – Belitung. Terobosan ini diharapkan mampu mengembangkan dan mempromosikan destinasi yang dimiliki daya saing global tinggi,” ujar Esthy Reko Astuty dalam kesempatan terpisah. Destinasi-destinasi tersebut kita promosikan secara maksimal guna mendongkrak target pergerakan wisatawan nusantara sebesar 260 juta di tahun 2016 ini, dan 275 juta pergerakan wisnus di tahun 2019. Esthy menambahkan, Borobudur Marathon sendiri sebagai salah satu upaya promosikan Candi Boroobudur sebagai destinasi wisata andalan di Jawa Tengah. “Sejumlah event berskala internasional yang memadukan olahraga dan wisata berdampak besar bagi perkembangan pariwisata di Jateng. Dengan adanya event berkonsep sportourism di Jawa Tengah, dapat dipastikan akan menambah potensi baru bagi obyek wisata, yang saat ini belum optimal digali selain Candi Borobudur,” ujar Esthy. Esthy berharap event ini dapat digelar 9 | Paradiso November, 2016
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rutin sehingga menghadirkan potensi wisata baru sekaligus menambah daya tarik wisatawan mengunjungi Candi Borobudur sebagai salah satu ikon wisata Indonesia yang telah mendunia. Esthy menjelaskan, pihaknya telah melakukan berbagai terobosan efektif membantu pemerintah daerah dalam mempromosikan destinasi wisata di 10 destinasi prioritas. Selain promosi di berbagai media cetak, elektronik, online dan ruang, juga memanfaatkan secara maksimal media sosial. Kesempatan terpisah, Gubernur Jawa Tengah Ganjar Pranowo mengatakan Jateng memiliki banyak potensi wisata yang dapat mengangkat pendapatan asli daerah tapi saat ini sarana dan prasarananya kurang memadai, kita bangun yang bagus karena kalau pariwisatanya bagus akan menarik simpul ekonomi kreatif masyarakat. “Persiapan lainnya di bidang pariwisata juga sudah dilakukan seperti menyiapkan paket-paket wisata tidak hanya bersifat umum, tapi juga yang paket wisata minat khusus seperti tracking Merapi, tur ke Dieng, atau live in Karimunjawa,� ujar Ganjar. Pemerintah Daerah dibantu Kemenpar juga menggencarkan promosi sejumlah objek wisata yang ada di 35 kabupaten/ kota sebagai upaya meningkatkan jumlah kunjungan wisatawan di Provinsi Jateng pada 2016. Promosi objek-objek wisata juga akan menggunakan e-tourism yang menjadi sebuah tuntuan karena promosinya bisa 24 jam dan jangkauannya luas sampai ke seluruh dunia. Selain penggunaan “e-tourism� melalui jaringan internet, juga
28 | Paradiso November, 2016 Photo by indonesia.travel
memanfaatkan berbagai bentuk media sosial dan melibatkan berbagai komunitas dengan pertimbangan lebih efisien jika dibandingkan promosi dengan cara yang konvensional. Berdasarkan data Dinas Kebudayaan dan Pariwisata Jateng, potensi objek wisata di 35 kabupaten/kota saat ini tercatat sebanyak 417 lokasi yang terdiri atas 132 lokasi wisata alam, 88 lokasi wisata budaya, 105 lokasi wisata buatan, 21 lokasi wisata minat khusus, dan wisata lain-lain sebanyak 71 lokasi. Jateng pun saat ini sedang menata empat kawasan untuk dipromosikan di tingkat nasional. Empat destinasi yang hendak ditata itu adalah Karimunjawa (Jepara), Borobudur (Magelang), Sangiran (Sragen) dan Dieng (Banjarnegara-Wonosobo).
Keindahan Candi Borobudur Candi Borobudur adalah salah satu candi bersejarah milik umat Budha yang berlokasi di Magelang, Jawa Tengah. Candi ini merupakan salah satu peninggalan tertua yang sudah diakui sebagai keajaiban dunia. Candi ini merupakan candi Budha yang terbesar di dunia sekaligus sebagai monumen umat Budha terbesar yang pernah ada. Candi Borobudur didirikan sejak tahun 800-an saat pemerintahan Syailendra. Selain sebagai objek wisata di Indonesia, umat Budha juga masih melakukan ritual suci keagamaan di tempat ini terutama saat merayakan hari besar agama Budha seperti
hari raya Waisak. Biksu-biksu akan datang untuk melakukan upacara keagamaan. Para pengunjung yang datang pun dapat melihat ritual suci keagamaan tersebut. Banyak sekali wisatawan mancanegara dan wisatawan lokal yang datang menikmati objek wisata ini. Biasanya mereka yang datang ke Candi Borobudur mengambil kesempatan untuk mengabadikan berbagai peninggalan bersejarah seperti patung dan monument-monumen Budha. Monumen candi ini sendiri terdiri dari enam teras yang memiliki bentuk seperti bujur sangkar. Di sekitar candi, pengunjung dapat melihat ukiran-ukiran serta relief cantik dan indah yang menyimpan berbagai macam cerita. Di dalam cerita-cerita tersebut kita bisa memetik berbagai macam hikmah. Pengunjung terutama wisatawan asing yang ingin mengetahui kisah-kisah atau makna relief serta ukiran di dinding candi biasanya menyewa pemandu wisata. Apabila anda berkunjung ke candi Borobudur Magelang Jawa Tengah saat libur lebaran maka anda bisa menikmati suguhan kesenian tradisional seperti taritarian. Hal ini dilakukan oleh masyarakat atau penduduk sekitar candi untuk melestarikan budaya mereka ke seluruh dunia. Saat pulang wisatawan juga dapat membeli berbagai macam souvenir dan pernak pernik seperti miniatur patung Budha dan candi Borobudur yang dijual bebas di sekitaran candi. Di dekat candi juga terdapat warung-warung dan tenda makanan sehingga bagi wisatawan yang sudah lelah berjalan dapat menikmati masakan khas daerah Jawa Tengah dengan harga terjangkau. (*)
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East Manggarai
PONG DODE FOREST
A Local Wisdom, A Heritage in Environmental Preservation
P
eople of Manggarai have noble tradition and cultural wisdom on the importance of maintaining harmonious life with the nature. In many stories and legend from Manggarai, it was told that plant is the source of food and life was born from human womb and earth is the Mother Nature. Similar form of relationship is also formed with the forest as the source of wood for building houses. The culture of Manggarai considers forest as “Anak Rona” (party who provides girls) for Manggarai people. Therefore, if we want to take wood from forest, especially if it will be used for the main pillar of the gendang house called Siri Bongkok, we have to perform a ritual in order to get blessing from Anak Rona (i.e. forest). Another ritual is held when bringing the wood to the village. It is called rook molas poco (parade the forest girl). This ritual is like taking the bride to the groom’s house where wood as the main pillar in gendang house is considered as the forest girl (molas poco) who should be respected. High appreciation towards the importance of maintaining harmony between life and the nature is inherited and implemented by people of Mano in Mandosawu sub-district, Poco Ranaka district of East Manggarai regency. The existence of Pong Dode forest in the middle of the village 14 | Paradiso November, 2016
is the proof of harmonious relationship between the villagers and the nature. Since long time ago, local people continuously protect the forest so that it stays verdant and beautiful. They do that because they are fully aware that forest is one of the sources of life, which continuously flows water and fresh air for their life. The forest of Pong Dode is situated among people’s settlement and directly bordered with four villages namely traditional village of Mano, Nancang, Benteng Dima and Wejang Raci. Although the population has grown and the settlement becomes more crowded considering that Mano is the capital of Poco Ranaka district, but the forest area is well preserved. The population of Mano is around 3,500 people and spread in nine villages or five hamlets in Mandosawu sub-district. Mando has long become clove producer in East Manggarai regency.
The source from three springs In local Manggarai language Pong means spring or a forest which has spring. The forest of Pong Dode also has springs. One of the special things that encourage Mano people to continue preserving Pong Dode
forest is the existence of three springs, which flow from the forest area throughout the year. These springs are the source of life for the people of Mano. The water from Pong Dode forest is used for drinking, cooking and irrigating their fields. “Although there is long drought, the level of water discharge never goes down. Therefore, people rely so much on the springs for drinking and rice field irrigation,” said head of Mandosawu sub-district Severinus Kordi. Pong Dode forest covers an area of around 2 hectares. Around the forest, there are villages and clove plantation belong to the local villagers. The entire forest area is surrounded by road. To secure the forest area, Cultural and Tourism Bureau of East Manggarai Regency has fenced the surrounding area in order to protect it from illegal logging and animal tethering. Inside the forest, there are many kinds of trees and people recognize them with local names such as Ndingar (cinnamon), Uwa, Ara, Lokon, Natu, Cue, Boto, Mera, Wuhar and Mango. There are also a number of wild orchids grow on trees. Pong Dode forest is habitat for tens of monkeys and birds like parrot, kalong and Peregam. With all the uniqueness and rich natural resources, Pong Dode forest is like a perfect and beautiful city park. The challenge is to preserve the area due to the growing number of forest clearance for settlement and farming. Strong local cultural wisdom and understanding are required to continuously live harmoniously with the nature and preserve it for the future.
East Manggarai
CUNCA REDE WATERFALL BEAUTIFUL PICTURE ON THE FOOT OF MOUNT RANAKA ship with the nature. They really preserve the environment, especially the forest area near their village. They are fully aware that forest area in Poco Ranaka supports their life and water supply. They use the water from the river for drinking, irrigating rice fields, and electric power. One thing to know is that the potential for regional development and the waterfall area in the future is very promising for the tourism sector. It will be very useful as long as it is maintained and used properly and responsibly.
How to get there?
F
lores Island is the paradise of adventurous tourism as most of tourist attractions can be found here, mountain climbing, forest trekking, river kayaking, horse riding, natural bungee jumping, enjoying the beauty of beaches and exploring underwater garden. East Manggarai, one of the regencies in the west of Flores also offers various tourist attractions that can be explored and enjoyed by tourists. One of tourist destinations that should not be missed in East Manggarai is Cunca Rede Waterfall. The sound of rippling water can be heard from distance. It breaks the quietness of the morning as we walked from the village of Nenas in Sano Lokom to Cunce Rede. Cunca Rede is quite close from the village of Nenas or Ntaur. We walked along the path in the area of Ruteng Natural Tourism Park. The areas of Cunca Rede and the forest of Mount Mandosawu, Poco Ranaka and Lake Rana Mese are included in the Ruteng Natural Tourism Park managed by Balai Besar Konservasi Sumber Daya Alam – BBKSDA (Center for Conservation of Natural Resources) of East Nusa Tenggara Province. The farther we walked into the forest, the louder the sound of rippling water is. After walking for around 15 minutes, we finally arrived in Cunca Rede waterfall. “Wow, the waterfall is gorgeous,” said my
friend Anas from Swisscontact Wisata. “So far, this is a waterfall with the highest level of water discharge that I’ve ever seen in Flores. The level of water discharge in other waterfalls is low and the water is not as high as in here,” he said. The waterfall is just beautiful. The water flows from a height of 40 meters, hits the stones underneath hard and creates rippling water. The waterfall flows from a river inside the forest area of Poco Ranaka. The level of water is high throughout the year. Its position which is situated on the foot of Mount Ranaka makes it looks like a beautiful picture on the foot of the mountain. The surrounding nature of Cunca Rede is fresh and pristine. Around the waterfall, we can find green plants that look like a blanket spread on the surface of water. The water is crystal clear with a bathing pool which is always ready to refresh and get rid our fatigue. When we went down to the waterfall, we were amazed by the swift waterfall that falls into the rocks and pond underneath, releasing the foam into the air, and forming a rainbow when exposed to the morning sun. It was totally beautiful natural scenery. The water was cold and, as it continues to seep into the pores of the body. People live around Cunca Rede waterfall build friendly and harmonious relation-
The trip to Cunca Rede has its own challenges given that there is no signpost along the way to this place. For tourists coming from Labuan Bajo or Borong through the road of trans Flores, they can visit Cunca Rede passing through the junction in Paka of Sita village, Rana Mese district. The trip from Paka junction to Cunca Rede as far as 10 km, road condition is pretty good and paved up to Pustu Ntaur in the village of Sano Lokom. The road from Pustu Ntaur to Nenas village is still rocky and not paved as far as 1.5 km although pickups and motorcycles can still go through it. Cunca Rede is only 600 meters away from Nenas village and can be reach on foot in 15 minutes.
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East Manggarai
RANA MASAK HOT SPRING Some visitors were bathing under the shower and pool built in the hot spring. They came from Borong and surrounding villages to enjoy the hot water. They came with different purposes, some were for health therapy like those with skin problem and others were just having fun and relaxing. “Bathing here refresh our body and relax the muscles,” said Ardi Jehaman from Borong who often visits Rana Masak. Cultural and Tourism Bureau of East Manggarai Regency has built bathing pool and toilet facility in Rana Masak for accommodating the need of visitors and attracting more tourists.
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he morning sun was shining on a small and barren plain near the river, and making the surface of the plain looks golden yellow. This condition is in contrast to the surrounding areas, which is green with trees and rice fields. The yellow color which is visible on the surface of the plain turned out to be sulfur remnants bursts from the point of hot water flowing across the surface of the plains. The deposition of sulfur is so prevalent everywhere and covers the entire plain, so that it looks like golden yellow crater. That’s the picture of the condition in the early morning in Rana
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Masak, a natural hot spring in the north of Borong. Rana Masak hot spring is located in a plain on the foot of Golo Ndele Hill. There are four points of fountain geysers. Each point has the size of a big cooking pot. The water bursts from the hot spring is like boiling water. It is probably the reason it is called Rana Masak, which means the lake of boiling water. One point to another is separated as far as 20 to 50 meters. The water temperature can reach 40°C and boil egg within 15 minutes. The hot spring covers an area of around one hectare.
The Legend of Rana Masak There is a legend of Rana Masak, which is popular among people in the village of Purak and Balus, two villages located near Rana Masak hot spring. Purportedly, long time ago the place was a village. One day, most of the villagers went to the garden. Those left in the village were a paralyzed man and a blind man. They lived in different house but close to each other. In the afternoon, the blind was going to cook, but he did not have fire to light the furnace. He asked for a help from his
East Manggarai
paralyzed neighbor to get him fire. His neighbor said that he had fire, but he could not bring it there. At home, he had a dog, he took a burning wood from furnace, tied it to the dog’s tail and asked the dog to go. The dog with a burning wood on his tail did not go to the blind’s house; instead it ran in panic around the village. This incident made villagers who just went back from the garden laughed out loud. At night, one of the elders of the village dreamed. In his dream, he was
approached by an old man with white hair and long beard. The old man asked him about the afternoon incident, about the blind and the paralyzed man who tied burning wood to dog’s tail. The old man was angry and asked the elder to choose one of the two options given:“ngoeng hang kar, ko ngoeng hang m’belek” (do you want to eat hard rice or rice porridge?). Since he was already old, the elder chose rice porridge (hang m’belek). A moment later he was awake and heard the roar of wind and heavy rain. Landslide buried and ruined the village. The villagers were running around in panic, some were safe and others were buried under the landslides. Those who survived fled towards the east, but when he turned back to his village, he became a rock, and then there is Watu Ata (Stone Man) in the village of Golo Tolang.
Moments later, on the former village, came a blast of hot water, which is named after Rana Masak hot spring.
Access road to Rana Masak Rana Masak hot spring is located in the village of Golo Ndele, around 10 kilometers to the north of Borong. This area can be reached from Borong via the village of Warat and then heads east to Purak village in Ngampang Mas. Paved access road can only be found up to Purak village. Vehicles can be parked in the village yard of Purak. After that, we need to walk for about 500 meters down the coffee plantation and passed Wae Moi river and after 10 minutes walking, we will arrive in Rana Masak hot spring.
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East Manggarai
Les For Arbres, Ecotourism Cottage in Golo Lijun “Golo Lijun offers bright future. It offers beautiful panorama of savannah, river and hills. It is located in the north of East Manggarai and close to Ngada Regency. Golo Lijun is situated between two shaded bays, Nanga Lok in the west and Labuan Kelambu in the east. In addition to its stunning beach panorama, Golo Lijun also offers environmentallyfriendly cottage with sufficient facilities. Being in Golo Lijun takes us closer to nature and befriend with it.�
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oland Therelle and Olivier Fargeix never imagine before that someday they are going to live in the village of Golo Lijun. It is far from their dream that someday they will spend half of their life in a quiet and isolated village, leaving the hustle and bustle of city and modern life in their homeland France behind. Life might change its direction unexpect-
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edly and it happened when they visited Indonesian and traveled to Flores as backpackers on a motorbike in 2008. They fell in love at first sight when riding motorbike along north coastal area of Flores to Maumere up to Labuan Bajo. Golo Lijun was the place that they were heading to. They decided to stay, mingle with local people, build a cottage, teach farming to local people and become part of the development of life there. Two adventurers from France have been living in Buntal, Golo Lijun village, Elar district of East Manggarai Regency for a long time. They live modestly with the local people. They learn how to live modestly in accordance to nature’s condition and local people. In the beginning, they did not receive positive response from the local people. However, as time goes by, the suspicion disappears. They welcome the presence of two foreign citizens enthusias-
tically. It is because they bring positive values by teaching people about agriculture in accordance to weather and climate there, building harmonious life with the nature, giving example on how to maintain and protect environment and ecosystem and supporting the local development. They cultivate the farmland and provide accommodation for tourists visiting the village.
Why 4 Pohon is environmentally-friendly? Pondok 4 Pohon has a number of criteria, which make this place into ecotourism destination or environmentally-friendly. First, the place is very remote, located in unspoiled natural surroundings, and are well preserved. In any directions that you are headed to, you will find green fields, and the place is located on the bank of the
East Manggarai Excellent Potentials and A Bright Future
river. Secondly, Pondok 4 Phon is built of wood, with a dominance of local materials and only some are from the outside. Solar power is used for power and lighting as well as pumping water from the river and then piped to the cottage. In addition, 4 Pohon also uses UV carbon filters to clean the water. 4 Pohon also has a high vantage tower for a panoramic view of nature from above. The name of the cottage is taken from French, Les for Arbres. The name is inspired from four big turmeric trees located in the gate of the cottage. The branches of the trees are used as resting place. The yard and garden around the cottage look clean and well arranged. Grass is cut neatly and regularly watered so that it always looks green and fresh. There is organic fruit and vegetables garden behind the cottage, which makes it more obvious that the cottage is really environmentally friendly. Clean water is not a problem here and
electrical facilities which use solar power system light up the place at night. Cultural symbols are put in every corner of the room. It is not merely to attract tourists’ attention, but also to show respect to local civilization. There is learning aspect here, namely how precious the cultural heritage owned by the local community. The cost of staying in the cottage is IDR 250,000 – 300,000 per night during high season. There are not many guests staying in the cottage at the moment. It is because the access road to 4 Pohon still needs lots of improvement. Hot Mix road can be found 3 kilometers to the north of 4 Pohon. This is admitted by the owner of the cottage Rolland Thorelle. “This business actually does not earn much profit. Guests have difficulty to reach the cottage considering the terrible access road and the unavailability of telephone network,” said Rolland.
Along the coast from Pota to Buntal, we are presented with stunning beach panorama, Watu Pajung Beach, Bukit Cinta (the hill of love) in Nanga Lok Bay, and Buntal. Those beaches have sparkling white sand, unique corals and shaded sea. Along the way from Buntal to Golo Lijun, we will be spoiled with not only marine tourism, but also natural tourism. Long time ago, Buntal was only a stretch of abandoned savannah and bushes, which was planned to become rice field because the land is fertile and there is sufficient water supply from the river. In its development, Buntal was made into destination for local transmigration. Since then, Buntal started to make improvement. Government supports the process by providing supporting facilities such as housing, educational facilities, clean water, irrigation and road. Since East Manggarai gained its autonomy, Buntal, Golo Lijun and their surrounding areas become one of the targets for agricultural development. Government expands agricultural field, open new field, build big irrigation and sufficient irrigation ditches. Soon, everything will start operating and Buntal will become one of the rice contributors in East Manggarai. Therefore, this region promises a bright future.
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East Manggarai
LAKE RANA KULAN Favorite Place for Relaxing and Unwinding
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he distance between Borong in the southern coast and Pota in the northern coast of East Manggarai is quite far. Our body might be aching after a long trip from Borong passing through Lengko Ajang. However, tiredness and sleepiness will suddenly disappear once we arrive in Lake Rana Kulan. The lake is surrounded by verdant forest with fresh and cool air. This is our first impression when we visited Lake Rana Kulan which is located on the roadside to Pota, Sambi Rampas district. Lake Rana Kulan which is
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situated on the roadside becomes favorite pit stop for people passing the road from Lengko Ajang to Pota and vise versa. The lake has been long known for its beauty, crystal clear water and tranquility as it is located far from people settlement. Lake Rana Kulan is located in the village of Rana Kulan of Elar district. It covers an area of around 5km2 with a depth around 30 meters. In the west of Lake Rana Kulan, there are coffee plantation, cacao and other plantation which belong to the local villagers. Visitors
can clearly see ducks and egrets swimming and looking for food in the lake. The lake is located about 85 kilometers from Borong and 30 kilometers from Pota. Jhon Aurey, a local villager that we met at the location said that the beauty of Lake Rana Kulan has been known worldwide. The lake has been visited by many domestic and international tourists. According to Jhon , the biota that can be found in this lake include freshwater fish, shrimp and eel. Most people visit the lake for fishing and enjoying the beautiful panorama.
East Manggarai
WEAVING SONGKE The Art of Weaving Hopes and Joy of Manggarai People
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he people of Manggarai have amazing traditional weaving technique. Using this technique, they can create traditional sarong called Songke as well as a scarf. This work of art has been inherited from one generation to another. Songke is worn by both Manggarai men and women in their daily life either for formal or informal occasions. Songke is rich in values and symbols. Black is used as the base color to symbolize the greatness of Manggarai people and submission that all in the end will go back to God Almighty. Flowery motif has some meanings. Wela Kaweng (flower of Kaweng tree) motif symbolizes interdependency or mutual relation between human and his surrounding nature. Spider motif (Ranggong) symbolizes honesty, tenacity and hard work which are the characteristics of Manggarai people. Manggarai people are known as diligent and downright worker. Spider is also the symbol of the spirit of unity and harmony of Manggarai people. The motif of boundary lines (su’i) means the end of everything or everything has
its limit. Animal motif (Ntala) is related to hopes and dreams which are often whispered in prayer (tudak) by Manggarai people “porong langka shaeng ntala” (always grow high up to the star). The prayer is intended to wish for people to stay healthy and grow into someone who has high position and strong influence in the society just like the starts in the sky. Rhombus motif symbolizes prosperity and prudence of the life of Manggarai people. The motif of Runus flower (welarunus) is the symbol of humility and sincerity. It illustrates that Manggarai people are like a little flower which provides beauty in life. The motif of Jok has the shape of a cone on the upper end and lower end of the Songke. It resembles the traditional house of Manggarai, which symbolizes the unity and harmony of Manggarai people with God, nature and other human beings. Nowadays, Songke is not only worn as sarong or scarf. It has been developed into modern art work, which is dynamic and attractive to suit the need of mode. A number of high-value products such as dress,
suit, bag, tie and wallet are also made from Songke. Songke can easily be found in any souvenir shops and house of mode.
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East Manggarai
THE GAME OF
CACI “Sportsmanship and Heroism of Manggarai Men”
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aci is a game of dexterity among Manggarai men. In this game, the players alternately whip and fend off the opponent’s lashes. Caci game is combined with the art of dance and music. The dance looks so heroic and beautiful because it is a combination of the beauty of the gestures, and the uniqueness of the clothing worn, and agility in whipping or fending off the lashing of the opponents. Caci’s players are equipped with vocal skill for singing for they have to sing spontaneously after fending off the lashes of other players and then deliver Paci. Paci is an expression containing a pseudonym or alias of the oppononent that contains the phrase about him, his whereabouts, characteristics and a figure that he dreams of. The purpose of Paci is to motivate or grow the spirit of the players and to persuade the opponent. The costumes worn by the players of Caci are very attractive and symbolize uniqueness and cultural character possessed by the Manggarai people like: “Panggal” (a head scarf) with the shape of buffalo horn and one of the symbols which is placed on the roof of Manggarai traditional house , symbolizing “Rang” (authority, charisma and strength) of Manggarai people. “Ndeki” (shape of ponytail) made of rattan twisted with horsetail is placed on the waist, symbolizing masculinity and strength, charm and allure of Manggarai men. Meanwhile the sarong of Songke tied at knee length. It symbolizes modesty and subservience of Manggarai people. White trousers symbolize innocence, generosity and sincerity. Tubi Rapa which is worn as beads tied together under the chin and it symbolizes the greatness and majesty of Manggarai men. Nggorong (clattering) is
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hung at the back waist and symbolizes the charm and allure. Leros shawl is wrapped around the waist and let it hang loose on the front side of the sarong to symbolize honor. The equipment for Caci consists of Larik (whip) which is made from buffalo skin with plaited rattan on the tip, Nggiling (shield) which is made from buffalo skin to fend off the opponent’s attack and Agang (arch) which is made from rattan or bamboo and used to fend of opponent’s attack.
Symbol and Meaning of Caci Caci consists of two syllables, namely Ca (one) and Ci (test or trial). Thus, Caci means a test or a trial. The test here is meant to test the characteristics and sportsmanship among the Manggarai men. No matter how painful the wound caused by the whip in Caci game, there should not be any resentment among the players. Blood and sweat poured during the game are believed to provide fertility and bring abundant harvest. Long time ago, when there was a dispute between villages and reconciliation could not be reached, and then Caci was done to resolve the dispute.
Through this game, the dispute was resolved. Caci is done by two groups from two different villages. It can also be done by Anak Rona (family of the bride) and Anak Wina (family of the groom). The guest group is called Meka Ladang and the host is called Mori Beo. During the game, other participants, both guests and host are doing Danding (standing in a circle and singing Manggarai song). The singing is accompanied by Sae dance performed by a man and a woman in the center of the circle. A group of women sit in group and play gong and drum to enliven the game. The target of the whipping in Caci game is upper body from stomach to the head. Hitting the part under the stomach is considered to be a violation. When the whip hits the face, it is called Beke. The player who gets Beke is lost and should be out of the arena and return to his house or village. Caci is performed during Penti (celebration after harvest), Pesso Beo (village celebration), welcoming new married couple, welcoming important guests and other celebrations such as birthday and Independence Day. Are you interested in watching Caci game? Let’s go to East Manggarai! . ***
East Manggarai
ENJOYING THE EXOTICISM OF CEPI WATU BEACH
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Cepi Watu Beach has white sand and layers of stones. The stones, at certain time, cannot be seen because they are covered by white sand. The uniqueness of the beach has attracted many visitors to reveal the mystery. “
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ituated in the southern tip of Borong city, the capital of East Manggarai Regency Cepi Watu Beach offers stunning natural panorama. It is not known yet when and how the name was given, but it probably means a beach with many stones. Is it true? The fact is that in the western part of Cepi Watu Beach as long as around one kilometer, there are layer of
big stones. However, in the eastern part as long as 3 kilometers, there is a stretch of white sand along the beach. At certain time, the stones cannot be seen for it is covered by white sand. There is a cycle of white sand and stones, which is affected by the changing of season. This is the uniqueness that attracts many people to visit Cepi Watu Beach. The natural beauty of Cepi Watu Beach has always successfully attracted people to visit and no wonder that every visit always leaves deep impression. Not only the nature’s charms, but also the activities of the fishermen can become interesting thing to see and enjoy. The sun sets behind Mules Island adding more beauty to the beach. Not far from Cepi Watu Beach, water flows from two rivers, Wae Reca and Wae Bobo. There are several activities that we can do on Cepi Watu Beach. In addition to swimming, we can also walk along the beach up to the estuary of the two rivers. If you are too lazy to walk, then sitting under the trees that grow along the beach can be chosen as an alternative. Cepi Watu Beach provides different nuance for different visitors. Cepi Watu Beach has gained popularity among the local people for quite a long time. However, it has just got serious
attention since East Manggarai gains its autonomy. Efforts to develop the area are carried out continuously. Now, there are parking area, a stage for art and cultural performance, operational office, public toilet, children playground and restaurant. There are also cafes, karaoke and recreational places, which are open in the evening. It is not difficult to reach Cepi Watu Beach. It is only 10 minutes away by motorbike or car. Food and drink sellers can easily be found around the beach. It would be perfect to enjoy the beauty of the beach while drinking fresh young coconut juice cold drink or fruit juice. Seeking for delicious lunch? Fresh fish can be bought at Borong market. Don’t think twice. Just pack your luggage and explore the beauty and uniqueness of Cepi Watu Beach.
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East Manggarai
EWE LBEACH
AING
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Beauty and serenity offered by Laing Lewe Beach provides freedom to every visitor to enjoy full-of-expression holiday without being interrupted by the activities of other visitors.” East Manggarai Regency is a new prima donna in tourism industry in Indonesia. Its unspoiled natural beauty is the biggest attraction for the visitors. Blue sky, white sandy beach and crystal clear water that every tourist dreamt of can all be found here. Laing Lewe Beach is truly a dream beach with its quiet surrounding; sparkling white sand and crystal clear water. Although it has stunning natural pan24 | Paradiso November, 2016
orama, Laing Lewe Beach is far from the hustle and bustle of mass tourism like other popular beaches. Therefore, spending holiday on the beach seems to be having a private beach. You are free to express yourself and explore the beach. Its location, which is far from residential area, has become an advantage. It makes Laing Lewe Beach free from trash problem and the crowd of people’s daily activities. The main road is quite far from the beach, around 3 kilometers away and bounded by forest area. Thus, visitors should go through a quite steep path to reach the beach. The easiest way to reach the beach is through sea route by motorboat. Dampek is a fishing village as well as the closest village to Laing Lewe Beach, which is located in the west of the beach. Going by a motorboat can be very interesting because in addition to the interaction with the fishermen who know a lot about the underwater beauty and various ecosystems there, visitors also get a chance to directly see the natural panorama along the trip such as Cape Kurbaja which has wide range of decorative fish and coral reef. There is also an old village located in Ninge Bay, which has already sunk due to tsunami disaster. During Sail Indonesia, Ninge Bay is often visited by
participants of the event for diving and snorkeling. It takes around 30 minutes to reach Laing Lewe Beach from Dampek village. Along the way there, we can see solid cliff which protects the beach from strong current especially during west monsoon season. Laing Lewe Beach is located in the northern part of East Manggarai Regency, in Lamba Leda district. It is about 85 kilometer from Boron, the capital of East Manggarai Regency. It takes 3 hours to reach Dampek village and another 30 minutes to reach the beach by motorboat from Dampek village. It costs around Rp 300,000 for a return trip from Dampek. If holiday without disturbance from other tourists is your preference, then Laing Lewe Beach is a perfect choice for you.
East Manggarai
LAKE RANA MESE
“The Charm of Beautiful Fairy behind a Dense Forest”
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or those who have traveled to Flores through the road from Labuan Bajo to Ende or vice versa, you must have passed the verdant forest area of Poco Ranaka and Mandosawu. They are part of the conservation forest of Ruteng Natural Tourism Park, which covers forest area in two regencies namely Manggarai and East Manggarai as wide as 32,248ha. Hidden behind the trees and mist that always surrounds the forest especially in the evening, a vast and exotic lake that will amaze everyone who sees it. It is Lake Rana Mese which means big lake in local language. In Manggarai language, Rana means lake and Mese means big or vast. The lake covers an area of 5ha. It is surrounded by forest area and steep walls as deep as 5 to 100 meters from the sea surface so that it looks like huge crater of volcano. Probably, thousands or millions of years ago, there was volcano eruption which created the lake crater. It is considering that Mount Ranaka and Nampar Nos which are located in this forest area had erupted in 1987 and still active until now. Although the walls around the lake are quite steep, they can still be used as tracking route so that visitors can walk around and enjoy the beauty of the lake. Lake Rana Mese is one of the life-supports for thousands of people living around the lake. It is also the source of water for drinking and irrigation for thousands of hectares of rice field found in the surrounding areas. Furthermore, it is also the habitat
for various ecosystems such as fish, eel, shrimp and crab. Lake Rana Mese has lush tropical forest that surrounds the lake, which makes the surrounding air cool and fresh. Not only diversity of tropical flora, the lake also offers diversity of underwater biota like freshwater fish Karper (Cyprinus Carpio), Mujair (Oreochromis Mossambicus), eel and shrimp. Forest area around the lake becomes habitat for several species of big mammal such as monkey (Macaca Fascicularis), porcupine (Hystrix Javanica), boar (Suscrofa Vitatus ) and civet (Paradixurus Hermaproditus ) and a number of migrant birds like belibis (Anas Querquedula) and Pecuk (Phalacrocorax Malanoleucos) as well as endemic mammals like giant mouse (Papagomys Armandrillarei), Poco Ranaka Rat (Rattus Haenaldi), Flores Bat (Chypnoterus Nusa Tenggara) and Flores owl (Otus Alfredi).
TERRITORY WAR AMONG FAIRIES People live around Lake Rana Mese have another name for it, Molas Poco, which means the forest girl. It refers to the beauty of the lake. It is also euphemism for beautiful fairies that are believed to reside in the lake. In accordance to legend, long time ago the fairies in Lake Rana Mese were friend with humans. They asked for help from humans to fight against other fairies that lived in Lake Rana Hembok, which is located in the east
of Lake Rana Mese. They fought to expand the territory. Lake Rana Hembok used to be wider than Lake Rana Mese. The weapons used by fairies from Rana Hembok in the war were shrimp and eel which served as knife and spear. Therefore, it was very easy for humans to defeat the fairies since those animals were just delicious side dishes for humans. After being defeated, Lake Rana Hembok turned into small lake and Lake Rana Mese became wide lake just like now. The truth of this legend is still a mystery, but Lake Rana Mese is indeed beautiful just like beautiful fairies hiding behind green trees and thin mist, which is always hanging on the surface of water. Lake Rana Mese and forest in its surrounding area is exciting tourist spot. It is one of main tourist destinations in East Manggarai, which offers stunning natural panorama that should not be missed. Sitting at the lake bank and fishing freshwater fish are activities commonly done by tourists visiting the lake. Since it is situated in forest area, the air in Lake Rana Mese is quite cold, which can reach 15°C especially in the evening and at night. Many visitors are amazed by the diversity of flora and fauna found in forest area around the lake. To enjoy this beautiful scenery, all you need to do is walking around the lake. You will be presented with the beauty of rare forest orchid and migrant birds. If you are not into walking, sailing around the lake on small boat will be interesting activity to choose. So, if you are interested to visit Flores, East Manggarai Regency in particular, don’t forget to drop by Lake Rana Mese and enjoy the beautiful natural panorama there. 25 | Paradiso November, 2016
Manggarai
Wae Rebo
The Traditional Manggaraian Village, Flores
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ae Rebo is one of Indonesia’s precious destinations in the formn of an old Manggaraian village. It situated in pleasant, isolated mountain scenery in Flores, East Nusa Tenggara. The village offers visitors a unique opportunity to see the authentic Manggarai housing and to experience the everyday life of the local community. In Wae Rebo village, the visitors can see “Mbaru niang”, a traditional, circular cone-shaped houses with very unique architecture. Nowadays, it is still a place to hold meetings, rituals and Sunday-morning prayers together. Wae Rebo can only be reached by way of a three-hour hike, or depends to your situation, from the lowlands. The hike is definitely worth the effort, where we reach the village we can find the dense rain forest along the narrow path to Wae Rebo, which is one of a stunning biological
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diversity. This village is host some interesting vegetations, including orchids, palms, and different ferns, and also the impressive population of singing birds. The village has been supported to become the major culture tourism attraction in West Flores. For increasing the beauty of the village, Indonesian government together with private organization and local community has renovated four of their“Mbaru Niang” or the ‘drum houses’. This house is a communal building, it gathering eight families who are descended from a common ancestor under its huge roof. Its structure symbolizes the unity of the clan, with the sacred drums considered the clan’s medium to communicate with the ancestors. The massive roof id made out of palm fiber, and it is supported by a central wooden pole. Furthermore, the ceremonial house, which has different in size from the other
buildings, is the place where the sacred heirloom drums and gongs are stored, and where different ceremonies and rituals are held. After the authentic ‘Mbaru Niang’ or the traditional Manggaraian house, the thing to see in Wae Rebo is witnessing the daily life of the inhabitants. Most of the people work in their gardens from early morning until dawn, and get busy with harvesting coffee and processing the beans. Even though weaving is not a major activity in Wae Rebo, you may encounter some women weaving traditional songket cloth. The visitors are welcome to spend the night in the ‘Mbaru niang’, to socialize and dine with the Wae Rebo community. You will sleep on a ‘tikar’, a woven mat made out of pandanus leaf, and get a taste of how life used to be when the extended families still lived their lives under one roof.
Manggarai
Boat: The boat trip is a good option if you start the trip from Labuan Bajo. Head south to the coastal village of Nangalili. Once there, you have to rent a boat (about Rp 400,000) to take you to Dintor. As there is no regular boat schedule, it is highly recommended to charter the boat in advance (contact Pak Irwan, +62 812366 89171). The boat trip takes about two hours and leads you across to Mules Island. After having arrived in Dintor, continue your trip to Denge by ojek (about Rp 10,000) for about 20 minutes.
How to get there There are several options to reach Wae Rebo: Car or motorbike from Ruteng: Start the 2.5 – 3 hour drive by heading south towards Golo Lusang. After having passed Pong Nggeok village, you will cross Wae Mese bridge. Go ahead to Narang village, followed by Nanga Ramut village, and you will end up in Dintor. From this small fishing village you can see the beautiful Mules Island. The road to the north brings
Truck (oto kayu) from Ruteng: From the Mena Bus Terminal, the truck route will take you across the villages of Cancar, Pela, Todo, and Dintor before you finally reach Denge Village. The oto kayu usually departs from the terminal in the afternoon. The trip takes about 3 – 3 1/2 hours. If you want to go back from Denge to Ruteng, you will have to wake up early as the bis kayu departs from Denge at 5.30am.
Hiking In Denge, start the hike by taking the path between a local homestay and village SDK (elementary school). The hike will lead you across three rest spots. The first one is at Wae Lomba River, which is less than an hour from Denge. After another hour of trekking, you will find the second one, Pocoroko. This is an important place for villagers (and visitors) who want to make phone calls and send text messages from their mobile phones, as there is no mobile signal in Wae Rebo. From Pocoroko you will reach the third post, Nampe Bakok, which takes about 40 minutes. From here, enjoy the beautiful hill scenery before you reach Wae Rebo. ***
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you to Kombo – Wae Rebo’s twin village – and finally to Denge village, which is the starting point for the hike to Wae Rebo.
East Manggarai
LAKE OF LOTUS IN RANA TONJONG
W
hat comes to your mind when we are talking about a lake? It could be crystal clear and calm water with forest area and trees that surround it. You might also consider enjoying time by fishing on the lake. You might imagine a place with cool air and rows of pine trees surrounding the lake. It is a picture of a lake, isn’t it? Let’s forget about the common description of a lake that I wrote above. I am going to write about a unique lake, which might be out of your expectation. I am taking you out from
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the common concept of a lake. The surface of the lake is fully covered by lotus so that the water area is almost invisible. The lake is known as Lake of Lotus (Nelumbo nucifera). The plant has its roots firmly in the mud and sends out long stems to which their leaves are attached. The leaves are sometimes, and flowers always, rose above the water surface. Lotus Lake is known as Lake Rana Tonjong among local people. It is located in Pota district of Sambi Rampas regency. The lake is situated on lowland which is surrounded by hills
and rice fields. It covers an area of 3.52 ha. Lotus grows throughout the year and blossoms from April until May. People believe that Rana Tonjong is one of the biggest Lotus Lakes in the world.
Historical Background There is not any certain information regarding the origin or how lotus can grow in Rana Tonjong. Based on information from local people, the current area where lotus grows used to be a paddy field. At one time there
East Manggarai
was a flood that inundated the rice fields. After the flood receded in another area, the paddy fields were continuously flooded. On that area, lotus grows and covers the entire lowland until now. Lotus atau Nelumbo nucifera is a species of herbaceous which has been known for its beauty and benefit since long time ago. In ancient Egyptian era, Lotus or Seroja could be seen growing together with lotus from species Nymphae caerulea in the edge of Nile River. During the leadership of Pharaoh, Egyptians praised Lotus highly so that its flower, fruit and leaves were used as motif of temple architecture. Lotus was taken from Egypt to Persia, India and China by Assyrian merchants until it finally arrived in Indonesia. (Anonim, 2015c). Lotus (Nelumbo Nucifera) is a perennial water plant, which can live for a couple of years (usually more than two years) or also called annual plant (Campbell et al., 2003). In India, it is called Padma and people in Malaysia call it Seroja or Lotus (Tan, 2001). In Indonesia, this plant is known as Teratai. Although they look similar, Teratai and Lotus are two different plants. This plant was first distributed from Asian continent and then spread to all tropical and sub-tropical regions. (Solihah dan Magandi, 2014).
The Benefits of Lotus Lotus is considered as sacred plant in China, Tibet and India. Therefore, it is also popular as sacred lotus. Sacred lotus becomes the symbol of country in India. It is closely related to Hindus mythology, philosophy, art, architecture, poetry and culture since long time ago. The plant was worshipped as symbol of divinity for more than 5,000 years (Anonymous, 2015). Sacred Lotus symbolizes the sun because it blossoms in the afternoon and closes at night. The buds of flower are related to the Goddess of Mother as the symbol of fertility, beauty and prosperity (Neal, 1965; Staples and Herbst, 2005). The beauty of Lotus makes it used as decoration in the gardens. It is considered to have high economical value. Not only having rich cultural value and serving as decorative plants, the flower is also used as food material and medication. The seeds inside the hump can be eaten directly (raw) or cooked first. According to Hembing (1998) and Kusumaningrum et al. (2013), traditionally Lotus has been used as medicine for various diseases because it contains useful substances for the body such as protein,
fat, carbohydrate, carotene, essence, phosphor, iron, calcium, and many more. It also contains active compounds such as polyphenol, vitamin C and also serves as anti-bacterial. Investigation has revealed that Lotus can absorb heavy metal so that it can be used for water purification in the most natural way.
Tourist Attractions The beauty and uniqueness of Lake Rana Tonjong has attracted many tourists to visit. Although not many of them know the religious value of the flower and its benefits for health and commercial need, many people are amazed by the beauty and uniqueness of it. Lake Rana Tonjong is located in Pota district of Sambi Rampas regency, in the north part of East Manggarai Regency. The road access to Pota is quite good now as it has become national road. The best way to reach Pota from Labuan Bajo or from Borong is via Ruteng to Reo in the north coast. It is about 75 kilometers from Ruteng and can be reached in around 3 hours.
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Sumba Island
Wellcome Wellcometo WestSumba
Although it takes only one-hour flight from Bali, not so many people know about West Sumba. Many people mistakenly consider West Sumbawa as West Sumba. The first is located in East Nusa Tenggara and the latter is located in West Nusa Tenggara. If Sumbawa has Newmont, West Sumba also has its own ‘golden mine.’ It is not precious metal, but pristine natural and cultural tourism potentials, which are far from the hustle and bustle of life in big cities. If you are interested in adventurous activities, West Sumba’s nature offers pristine white sandy beaches, stunning waterfalls, and a stretch of hills and savannah. For those who love culture, don’t be disappointed. West Sumba has unique rituals, megalithic grave and traditional houses which serve different functions and can be found in many areas in the regency. Those are not only historical or cultural heritage, but they have become part of people’s daily life. The root of the ancient tradition is ancestors’ religion, which is still maintained and implemented until now. All true travelers seek for can be found there. Therefore, it is the right decision to choose West Sumba as your‘next travel destination.’
Have a great adventure!
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Sumba Island
from their ancestors. About 38% of the population still practices Marapu, traditional belief of Sumba which relies on the worshipping of gods and spirit of ancestors. Basically, the entire cultural substance is rooted from this belief. The basic principle is maintaining harmonious relationship between humans, gods and the universe.
The Culture
The People Currently, West Sumba has the population of more than 100,000 people. It consists of local people as well as various ethnics who are commonly from areas in East Nusa Tenggara (NTT) and other areas outside NTT such as Java, Bali, West Nusa Tenggara (NTB) and Sulawesi. Local people of West Sumba can be classified into four sub-ethnic groups, namely Loli, Tana Righu, Wanokaka and Lamboya. Each group implements different tradition and speaks in different language. Since they do not recognize written culture, there are not any exact data on the origin of Sumbanese people. In accordance to the local legend that is told from one generation to another, the ancestors of Sumbanese people were from “across country,” which might mean India, Middle East or other Asian regions who traveled to Sumba Island. Their traveling route is always mentioned in “wara” (holy verse) chanted by Rato (spiritual leader of Marapu) during traditional ceremony. Most of West Sumba people are either Protestant or Catholic. The religions were introduced by missionaries from Holland centuries ago. The rest consists of Islam, Hindu and Buddha. However, it does not mean that the natives of Sumba have forgotten their belief, which was inherited
The traditional belief of Marapu, which is still held by some natives of West Sumba has made this regency into one of the most unique cultural tourism destinations. Some areas still keep legends, myths and history that underlie its existence, including objects that become parts of the legend, Wei Galli Village for example. In the village, which is located in Wanukaka district, there is the legend of Ubu Palabang, the ancestor of Wanukaka people, who is believed to be the first person came to Sumba Island by crossing a stone bridge that stretched over the ocean. There is also the legend of manu wulla manu laddu, a magical stone, which according to story was a gift from the God of Heaven (Ubu Rowa) to his daughter who married a man from the earth. In Loli district, there is a story of a battle between Umbu Kambuku and Umbu Loyara, the founder of Sawoda Clan whose descendants still live until today. Although the rapid development of technology has made the impact of modernization greatly affects the life of Sumba people, many of them still maintain the tradition inherited from their ancestors. This can be found not only in remote areas, but also in villages located around the town of Waikabubak. In the village of Tarung and Waitabar, which are located in the center of Waikabubak, the villagers still live in the shades of the past. They live in thatched house inherited from their ancestors, which also serves as worshipping place; make gorgeous woven cloth using traditional loom that have been used since centuries ago and still loyal to the traditional belief of Marapu. Traditional rituals are still held, either big traditional ceremonies with fixed schedule such as Pasola (i.e. the rite of war performed on the back of a horse), Wulla Poddu (i.e. the ritual of the holy month) and BIjalungu Hiu Paana (i.e. the ritual welcoming the growing season), or other rituals performed temporary such as wed-
ding ceremony, funeral ceremony and the pulling of grave stone.
The Living Most of West Sunda people depends their life on agricultural sector. Due to the condition of the land and low rainfall, there are not many crops that can be grown there. The main crops are paddy, corn and commodity crops such as coconut, coffee and areca nut. In addition to agriculture, people of West Sumba also live from a cattle breeding, which includes cow, buffalo and horse for big cattle and small cattle such as pig, goat and sheep. Buffalo, horse and pig are considered to have high value for they are used a lot in traditional and wedding ceremony. Buffalo is also still used to plough agricultural land traditionally. To earn additional income, West Sumba women in the villages spend their spare time to make woven cloth using traditional loom.
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The view in one of the corner of Waikabubak with a traditional village as the background
Waikabubak The town of a thousand villages
The title above might sound strange, but that’s the fact that you are going to find when visiting Waikabubak, the capital of West Sumba Regency. The small town with the population of 26,523 people is situated in a valley surrounded by hills and traditional villages located in various corners of the town. Waikabubak means a lot of water and there is a story that underlined the given of that name. Long time ago, the center of town or the center of trade was located in Mamboro (about 50km to the north of Waikabubak), while Waikabubak itself was an area part of Louli. Due to its strategic position, exactly on the intersection of other areas, it became stopover area for passerby (Louli means passing by). A small river (more popular as bamboo river) became oasis for people passing the area. At the river bank, where the spring had lots
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of water, those people had a rest and exchanged news. Furthermore, when Dutch colonial moved the center of government from Mamboro to Louli, which was considered to be more strategic in relation to the intention to occupy other areas, Waikabubak was determined at the capital town. Although it is the capital town, Waikabubak offers strong nuance of past life. Here we can find stretch of rice fields around the town, traditional villages are established on the top of small hill and can be found in and outside the town. Some of them are the center for the organization of big traditional ritual such as Wulla Poddu (the Holy Month). In the morning, just like in other towns, in Waikabubak cars and motorcycles crowd the road taking people to their work. However, in Waikabubak, cars and motorcycles are not the only road users. There are
groups of buffaloes belong to the farmers, which are sleighed to the field since even though modern machine like tractor has been used, many local people still manage their field using the power of buffalo. Waikabubak is a unique town. On one hand, you can easily see the icons of modernization that show the activities of the city towards changes. On the other hand, the town people, especially native people who live in traditional village, still live in traditional nuance. They live in traditional houses with thatched roof that also functions as worshipping place, make traditional woven cloth using traditional loom which has been used since centuries ago and still practice Marapu belief. Here are some interesting tourist destinations around the town of Waikabubak.
Sumba Island
Tarung & Waitabar BOTH villages are established connected one to another and located right in the center of the town, near the complex of Inpres Market of Waikabubak. The strategic location makes both villages become the most visited villages by tourists. It is because both villages located in the center of modernity, but they can maintain the originality of the tradition and cultural heritage until now.
Tarung and Waitabar village is only a few steps from your hotel, but they offers different nuance. Traditional house with thatched roof is built around open space where traditional ceremony or ritual held, megalithic grave, Marapu temple and Adung that used to be used to hang enemy’s head can be found. All those things will make you feel like traveling to the past time.
The pole of Adung. This picture was taken during the colonial period and the recent picture of the pole (top)
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Prai Ijing PRAI IJING is the name of a traditional village with beautiful panorama. It is situated on a level 3-hill. On the third or second level, you can see the full view of the village that is located on the first level. The best time to visit the village is in the morning when villagers start doing their activities or in the evening when they get back from the field. The village is only 2 kilometers in the east of the town.
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Gollu & Bodo Maroto The village is located in the village of Kalembu, about 2km to the east of the town. Every house in the village has its own name and function usually related to the role serves by the owner of the house during traditional ritual or ceremony. As one of the main organizer of Wulla Poddu (the holy month of Sumbanese people),
there are many sacred items stored in this village. There is the sacred drum called Ubbu that can only be hit once a year to mark the beginning of the holy month. The surface of the drum used to be made from human skin, but it has now been changed by buffalo skin. There is also Kapota Kabalak, Sumbanese headband made from
bark. It is only worn during Wulla Poddu to complete the clothes of the Rato (spiritual leader of Marapu). Unfortunately, many of those sacred items can only be seen in Holy Month and based on permission from Rato under a number of conditions. Items that can be seen anytime are commonly megalithic or other religious symbols.
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Bodo Ede Bodo Ede is one of the old villages, which still maintains its originality. It is located in the center of the town, next to the Catholic Church of Santo Paulus and Petrus. Currently, there are 14 traditional houses that still stand in Bodo Ede. All of them still use natural materials such as thatched roof and bamboo walls and floors. Here, we can also found some interesting megalithic graves. One of the houses in the village uses human jaws as decoration to remind people of the intra-tribe wars in the past that often happened at that time. Since traditional villages located in the town, there are many locations which used to be part of this village are sold to the local government or private party. One of the locations now has become the homeoffice of West Sumba Mayor and there is a tomb in the front yard.
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Sumba Island
Megalithic
THE TOMB BUILDERS Megalithic tradition firstly appeared on earth around 4500 years ago. The era of ancient megalithic had long disappeared from the earth. However, the native of Sumba still practice the tradition until now. Sumbanese people can be said to be tomb builders. Stone grave can be found anywhere, on the roadside, in front of the house, and even in the front yard of the Mayor’s house and police station. Megalithic in West Sumba is always made big and magnificent and generally decorated with statue and interesting reliefs which have socio-religious values. Sumbanese people build the tomb as a form of respect to their ancestors as well as the reflection of their nobility and greatness. It also serves as the symbol of status. Not all people are able to make a tomb since it costs quite a lot of money. There are series of ceremonies that should be done and it needs hundreds of people to pull the stone slabs weighing hundreds of tons from the place it is made to the village located on the hill. Tens of animals are slaughtered to be made into offering to Marapu and also consumption of all participants of the ceremony. People in big city might consider luxurious house or car as the benchmark of social status, but for Sumbanese people, it is not enough. Without magnificent tomb, the rank is incomplete. Since they believe in the concept of life after death, Sumbanese people can live far from their deceased relatives. Thus, the grave is always built in front of the house. House (especially custom house in traditional village) and the tomb is one inseparable package and regarded as the manifestation of life and death. House is the place for the living and tomb is the place for the deceased. Unfortunately, this tradition starts to shift. Megalithic grave is changed to concrete. It is due to the expensive cost and the influence of modernization. Modern materials such as cement, concrete and sand are cheaper and easily found so that it is more practical and beneficial.
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Where’s to find them ? on Prai Goli The village of Prai Goli is located in Waihura of Wanukaka district, about 14 kilometers from Waikabubak. There are two villages with the same name, namely Prai Goli Wawa and Prai Goli Deha. The unique thing is that there is only one house in Prai Goli Deha, other houses there belong to the people of Waikawolu. For common people, both villages seem to be one village and there is long history behind it. The people of Prai Goli live in Prai Goli Wawa and here is where the well-known Watu Kajiwa located. It is a megalithic and can be said as one of the mascots of Wanukaka district. It was built by the founder of Prai Goli village, Lakaru Kajiwa and Toda Bitalaka. However, no one knows the exact time
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of the establishment of the village. It was probably around the period of Portuguese occupancy since according to the story of local people, it is not like other grave stones, Watu Kajiwa was not built for human grave. It was built to hide various heirlooms that belong to the founder of the village from Portuguese people centuries ago. Watu Kajiwa can also be seen as the reflection of the greatness of the owner. The stone has monument with intricate carving, which is called kadu watu (stone horn) by the local people. On the top of the monument there is human statue that symbolizes the greatness of Lakaru Kajiwa as respected figure among the kabisu (clan) of Prai Goli. Along the surface of the stone, there are other carvings with various shapes and meanings. Some of
them are mamuli, jewelry with a shape of female womb that symbolizes the value of custom marriage; maraga and tabelu, jewelry with a shape of heart and buffalo horn that symbolizes the peak of the greatness in custom ritual and gong, a traditional musical instrument symbolizes greatness. There is also crocodile carving as the reflection of the god of water and anchor that symbolizes bravery in sailing on the sea. In accordance to the local legend, the material of Watu Kajiwa consists of stone slab weighing tens of tons brought from eastern Sumba through the sea in a big custom procession, which took years to complete. According to that legend, those relics have replica in a form of gold. It is the heirloom of Lakara Kajiwa, which was buried in the megalithic until now.
Sumba Island
on Wei Galli The village of Wei Galli is located in Tara Manu village of Wanukaka district, about 12 kilometers from Waikabubak. According to the legend, the village was established hundreds of years ago by Ubu Palabang, one of the ancestors who firstly step his feet on the land of Sumba. Wei Galli is one of the main traditional villages that responsible towards the implementation of several big traditional ceremonies such as Pasola (the ritual of war), Bijalungu Hiu Paana (the ritual of welcoming new season), and Purung Lahi Madodu (the ritual after harvest). A number of interesting megalithic can be found in this village and some are even considered to be sacred and have magical power such as Watu Weiurang, megalithic in a form of carved monument, an object for worshipping in order to find out the coming of rainy season, Watu Katala, a huge grave that in certain time functions as a throne for the Rato (spiritual leader of Marapu) in leading the sacred ritual, Watu Hawihi Uma Kamatan, two stone graves which serve as worshipping place, the place for distributing paddy seeds as well as a place to purify heirlooms, and many more.
on Bodo Maroto Bodo Maroto is not only a clean village, the people are also friendly. A number megalithic can also be found in this village. They are Lada Talla, grave stone that functions as a base or a place to place the sacred drum during the ritual of Wulla Poddu. We should not step on this stone and if we violate this prohibition since the stone is believed to be a sacred place or pamali and has supernatural power. Watu Pawai: is a stone where the kitchen dust is placed as symbol of getting rid of the evil spirit during the ritual of Toba Wanno (village clean-up). Just like other sacred stones, Watu Pawai is also considered to have supernatural power so that it should not be stepped on. Watu Dodo: is a stone where people place betel and areca nut as offering during the confession of sin in the holy month. It is also the place where dancers perform the sacred dance.
on Tarung The attractiveness of Tarung Village relies on its artistic location, originality and the traditional life of the villagers. A number of ancient megalithic built in group in a number places so that slightly it looks like a complex of ancient graveyard. Some of them are decorated with unique ornaments such as human body and buffalo head, which symbolize the social class of the owner. In addition to megalithic stone, visitors can also see handicrafts such as women cloth produced by the sellers.
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Bijalungu Hiu Paana BIJALUNGU HIUPAANA is a unique ritual held by the sub-ethnic of Wanukaka in New Year. The exact date for the implementation of this ritual, which is centered in the village of Waigalli, is determined by Ratos (spiritual leader) based on natural phenomena and calculation of dark and bright moon. Literally, Bijalungu means to put or to place an offering to welcome New Year, and Hiupaana is the name of a small forest located about 500 meters from Waigalli, where the offering will be taken from and later will be kept on the attic of the traditional house. Thus, Bijalungu Hiupaana means going to the forest of Hiupaana and there is a small sacred cave where the peak of the ritual will be held. Big traditional ceremony is West Sumba is always a chronology of series of ritual which is related one to another. It might last for days or weeks. Bijalungu Hiupaana is also like that. It is begun with the ritual of Bijal Pahepa (keeping betel and areca). In accordance to its name, this ritual involves the placing of betel and areca in some chosen locations as symbol of notification to Marapu and local people that the time for Bijalungu Hiupaana has come. There is also the ritual of self-purification called Kabubu (fasting), the ritual of hanging a set of sacred gong (Terung Katala) that will be hit every evening until the end 38 | Paradiso November, 2016
of Bijalungu Hiupaana, the ritual of the gathering of worshipping materials (Hangu Walu) enlivened by the performance of wolik maramu (dance performed by women) and kodul (dance performed by men telling about ancient war), the ritual of purification of heirloom items and blessing of people by the Rato (Pakidi Deri) and the peak of the ritual held in the forest of Hiu Paana. There are several activities carried out in the forest and all of them end up with divination. The activities include the observation of Manu Wulla Manu Laddu, a magical stone in which according to the legend was given by the god of heaven to his daughter who married the man from earth. If the stone position in sacred cave is perfectly close one to another, there will be abundant harvest. If the opposite happens, there will be various attack of sickness. There is a ritual of Kabena Karabau (throwing the buffalo). In this ritual, a young buffalo is specifically chosen as an offering. It is taken into the ritual arena and people are allowed to throw areca nut to the buffalo. If it hits the forehead, the person who throws it is believed to get great fortune. Hitting the neck is also a good sign, while hitting stomach and legs is believed to be the sign of bad luck. The next ritual is Teung (slaughtering buffalo). The young buffalo will be slaughtered
and the position when it falls to the ground indicates the condition of the year. If it falls to the right, it means a good year and a bad year if it falls to the left. After that the meat is cut into small pieces and then boiled in a sacred pot prepared by one of the Rato. A lot of broth means abundant harvest and little broth meaning lack of harvest. In traditional culture like West Sumba, divination is considered to be important as by knowing the season and conditon, people are able to prepare themselves well. Good season means that life will run normally and bad season means people have to be ready to live economically so that they will not have hard life. Although it seems to be old-fashioned, but there are moral values reflected implicitly in such rituals. Those are values that might have been forgotten by many of us who consider ourselves as modern people.
Sumba Island
Hand Crafted Katopo
The soul mate of West Sumba people Katopo is how local people call parang (machete), one of traditional weapon which has special position in the life of Sumbanese people. There are other types of weapon known by the native of Sumba such as nobu (spear), teko (short sword) and kito (knife). However, those weapons are only used for fighting in a war, hunting, or in traditional rituals. Machete, in addition to fulfilling all the functions mentioned before, also has its own practical function that is closely related to the everyday life of Sumbanese people. Katopo is used for cutting wood, clearing bushes, weeding, slaughter cattle and long time ago it was used for self-protecting. Considering its different functions, many Sumbanese people carry it wherever they go just like a soul mate. Katopo has become inseparable part of their traditional clothes. Katopo also has symbolic meanings related to socio-cultural practice. It is used in wedding ceremony in a traditional procession called Dengi wini water-wini pare. It is a kind of proposal to convey the intention of the groom to propose the bride. In this procession, the man’s family comes to the woman’s house carrying katopo to be given to the woman’s family. It symbolizes the opening of path, which is expected to send any obstacles that might disturb their relationship away.
Since it is made from various materials (especially the handle or known as ulu in local language), katopo is also a symbol of social status. Ulu made from tusk is more expensive and rare. Thus, it is only owned by certain people. Although Sumbanese people always carry parang, sharp weapon associated with aggressive activities of men, it does not mean that Sumbanese men are frightening. Sumbanese people are friendly and open to foreign people. There is even a saying related to the weapon. Sumbanese people will not use their machete to hurt people without reason. It can be seen from the position of the weapon when they carry it. It is place in front of their body, which means that Sumbanese people do not hide their weapon even from their enemy. Therefore, they are not a kind of people who stab from the back. If you are interested to buy parang, it can easily be found in the market and in front of big shops. Unfortunately, nowadays not many people are interested to work as katopo maker. Katopo is made from wrought iron, which is completed with pig snout-shape handle (koru wawi) or ulu kabuki (crooked handle). The handle determines the value of the machete. The cheapest handle is made from wood and the most expensive handle is made from tusk.
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libur singkat sambil berekreasi. Air terjun dengan ketinggian Âą 35 meter ini, menawarkan sebuah pesona yang naturalis karena lokasi dan alamnya yang masih asli. Menuju lokasi Air Terjun Kedebodu kita dapat menggunakan fasilitas transportasi umum baik kendaraan roda dua maupun roda empat.
AIR TERJUN MURUNDAO Terletak di Desa Koanara, Kecamatan Kelimutu, kira-kira 60 km dari pusat Kota Ende atau sekitar setengah kilometer dari Moni. Karena jaraknya yang dekat dengan kawasan Moni, maka daya tarik wisata ini selalu dikunjungi wisatawan. Letaknya yang juga relatif dekat dengan Danau Tiga Warna Kelimutu menjadikan air terjun ini sebagai alternatif daya tarik wisata bagi wisatawan.
Air terjun dengan ketinggian Âą 15 meter ini, menawarkan pesona yang naturalis/alamiah karena lokasi dan alamnya yang masih asli. Menuju lokasi Air Terjun Murundao kita dapat menggunakan fasilitas transportasi umum baik menggunakan kendaraan roda dua maupun roda empat dan dari jalan utama ditempuh dengan berjalan kaki sekitar 200 meter.
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ATRAKSI PATI KA DUA BAPU ATA MATA Atraksi ini merupakan upacara memberi makan para leluhur yang dilaksanakan di Kawasan Danau tiga warna Kelimutu yang oleh masyarakat Ende - Lio diyakini sebagai tempat bersemayam para arwah yang telah meninggal. Pemberian makan kepara arwah para leluhur dilakukan oleh tua adat (mosalaki) yang daerahnya berada disekitar kawasan Gunung Kelimutu. Masyarakat lokal meyakini Danau “Tiwu Ata Bupu” yang berwarna merah agak kehitaman merupakan tempat bersemayamnya arwah dari orang tua, Danau “Tiwu Ata Polo” berwarna hijau tua/pekat diyakini sebagai tempat bersemayamnya arwah orang yang selama hidupnya berbuat jahat, dan Danau “Tiwu Ko’o Fai Nuwa Muri” yang berwarna biru muda merupakan tempat bersemayamnya arwah para muda mudi. Upacara Pa’a Loka ini dilaksanakan setiap tanggal 14 Agustus.
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BATU PENGGAJAWA
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Kira-kira 29 km arah barat Kota Ende, terdapat hamparan batu berwarna dengan dominan warna biru, hijau serta coklat di sepanjang pesisir pantai Penggajawa. Batu berwarna dengan ukuran bervariasi ini juga bernilai ekonomis yang cukup tinggi dan menjadi salah satu komoditi ekspor dari Kabupaten Ende. Dikumpulkan dan dijual oleh penduduk lokal sehingga sebagian besar penduduk disini bermata pencaharian sebagai pengumpul batu. Disamping itu keadaan laut yang jernih dan membiru di pantai ini mampu menggugah keinginan untuk melakukan berbagai aktivitas berenang, mancing sambil menikmati bentangan alam pesisir selatan yang indah dan menantang. Lokasi Batu Penggajawa sangat mudah dijangkau dengan menggunakan fasilitas transportasi umum maupun sepeda motor.
PUING BENTENG PORTUGIS DI PULAU ENDE Di Pulau Ende terdapat salah satu peninggalan bersejarah bekas Benteng Portugis. Walaupun untuk saat ini yang nampak hanyalah puing-puing reruntuhan yang diselimuti akar pohon beringin, namun puing yang masih tersisa menjadi sesuatu yang membuktikan adanya interaksi antar bangsa yang terjadi pada masa lalu. Dari sini bisa ditelusuri adanya keterkaitan dengan bekas-bekas peninggalan Portugis pada kelompok masyarakat pesisir di daerah lain di wilayah Kabupaten Ende. Pulau Ende adalah satu-satunya wilayah kecamatan di Kabupaten Ende yang dipisahkan oleh laut. Untuk mencapai Pulau Ende kita dapat menggunakan sarana transportasi laut berupa perahu motor dengan waktu tempuh kurang lebih 1 jam perjalanan tergantung cuaca/ keadaan alam.
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BUMI PERKEMAHAN SOKOLO’O WOLOGAI DAN KOLAM PEMANCINGAN Bumi perkemahan terletak di Desa Wologai Tengah Kecamatan Detusoko berjarak sekitar 40 km dari kota Ende atau 5 km dari kecamatan Detusoko . Lokasi ini pernah dijadikan tempat Pelaksanaan Jambore Pramuka Tingkat Propinsi Nusa Tenggara Timur. Di sekitar lokasi perkemahan terdapat tempat pemancingan yang ideal bagi pengunjung yang hobynya memancing sambil menikmati keindahan alamnya dan berkemah bersama keluarga atau teman-teman.
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Advertorial Ende
DANAU KELIMUTU Tiga danau kawah berwarna di puncak gunung Kelimutu ini terbentuk dari aktivitas vulkanik jutaan tahun lalu, merupakan fenomena alam yang tidak ada duanya di muka bumi. Menurut legenda, ketiga danau tersebut merupakan kampung arwah. Danau Atapolo yang berwarna merah dipercayai sebagai tempat bersemayamnya arwah orang jahat. Danau Nuwa Muri KoO Fai yang berwarna hijau tosca merupakan tempat arwah muda-mudi dan danau Ata Mbupu yang berwarna hitam merupakan
tempat arwah para orang tua atau bijaksana. Danau Kelimutu termasuk salah satu Kawasan Taman Nasional di Indonesia yang dikenal dengan Kawasan Taman Nasional Kelimutu yang memiliki luas 5.356,50 ha. Berjarak 66 km dari Kota Ende yang dapat ditempuh dengan kendaraan roda dua maupun roda empat. Waktu tempuh menuju Danau Kelimutu dari Kota kira-kira 2,5 sampai 3 jam. Gunung Kelimutu termasuk gunung berapi yang masih aktif. Perubahan warna
air dari masing-masing danau merupakan indikasi adanya aktivitas tersebut. Perubahan warnanya tidak pernah bisa diprediksi. Bahkan beberapa kalangan mempercayai adanya hubungan antara perubahan warna pada danau-danau tersebut dengan berbagai peristiwa yang terjadi di suatu negara termasuk di Republik Indonesia dan Kabupaten Ende khususnya. Selain keunikan tersebut, aneka flora dan fauna juga terdapat dalam Kawasan Taman Nasional Kelimutu.
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KOLAM AIR PANAS “ AE OKA “ DETUSOKO Kolam Air Panas Ae Oka Detusoko berjarak , ± 33 km dari Kota Ende dapat ditempuh dalam + 1 jam perjalanan dengan menggunakan kendaraan roda dua maupun roda empat. Kolam ini terletak di pinggir jalan menuju Kec. Maurole ke arah utara ± 1 km dari terminal Detusoko. Kolam Air Panas Ae Oka yang telah ditata
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dengan baik dan rapi. Air panas ini mengandung belerang dan dipercaya dapat menyembuhkan berbagai penyakit kulit. Berdasarkan hasil penelitian suhu air panas Oka ini berkisar antara 35 - 45 c. Kolam Air Panas Oka ramai dikunjungi oleh masyarakat lokal sekitar wilayah Detusoko pada sore hari karena keadaan
cuaca yang dingin, sedangkan pada harihari libur ramai dikunjungi oleh pengunjung dari kota Ende yang selain bertujuan untuk mandi mereka juga menikmati keindahan panorama yang masih sangat alami. Pengunjung dapat menikmati hangatnya berendam atau sekedar mencelupkan kaki di Kolam Ae Oka Detusoko.
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VIEW KOTA ENDE DARI AEKIPA NDONA Aekipa yang terletak di atas bukit Ndona di wilayah Kecamatan Ndona merupakan tempat yang ideal untuk menyaksikan keindahan kota Ende secara utuh. Dari atas bukit, Ende ditampilkan dalam sisi yang lain dengan nuansa yang beda. Sebuah kota dengan pemukiman penduduk yang
padat di antara rimbunan pohon kelapa . Tampak jelas Gunung Meja dan Gunung Ia bagaikan tembok pembatas yang kokoh dan Bandara Haji Hasan Aroeboesman bagaikan sebuah sungai yang membelah kota. Aekipa merupakan sebuah kawasan
perbukitan berjarak sekitar 20 km dari Kota Ende yang dapat ditempuh dengan kendaraan roda dua dan roda empat. Waktu yang dibutuhkan untuk mencapai lokasi ini kurang lebih 30 menit karena keadaan topografinya yang banyak tanjakan.
SAWAH BERTINGKAT DETUSOKO Memasuki wilayah Detusoko dari desa Wolofeo (29 km arah timur kota Ende) hingga Dusun Ekoleta Desa Wologai (36 km kearah timur) sejauh mata memandang, pandangan kita dimanjakan oleh sektor pertanian dan perkebunan yang diusahakan oleh masyarakat. Sawah bertingkat di sepanjang jalan nampak eksotik, tertata rapi dan terkesan harmoni dengan keadaan lereng dan bukit serta sungai yang berkelok-kelok. Udara yang sejuk dan lingkungan yang selalu hijau mengindikasikan adanya kehidupan dan mengungkap realitas bahwa kultur agraris sudah berakar kuat dalam masyarakat di wilayah ini sejak dahulu.
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SITUS BUNG KARNO Terletak di jalan Perwira, Kelurahan Kotaraja Kecamatan Ende Utara (Kota Ende). Bangunan situs ini merupakan bekas rumah atau tempat tinggal Bung Karno dan keluarga semasa pembuangan/ pengasingan di Ende oleh Pemerintah Hindia Belanda tahun 1934-1938 yang masih dijaga, dirawat dan dipertahankan keasliannya oleh Pemerintah Kabupaten Ende. Lokasi ini berjarak kurang lebih 1 km dari pusat kota dan dapat ditempuh dengan kendaraan roda empat dan roda dua maupun dengan berjalan kaki.
Semua barang koleksi milik Bung Karno masih tersimpan dengan baik di dalam museum ini seperti : foto keluarga, foto pribadi Bung Karno, barang keramik, dua buah tongkat berkepala monyet, fulpen ukuran besar, piring nasi, cerek air minum, besi seterika, alat gantungan pakaian, lemari pakaian, tempat tidur besi, lukisan- lukisan dan masih banyak barang koleksi lainnya. Di dalam Situs Rumah Bung Karno juga terdapat tempat sujud atau ruang semedi dan tempat sembahyang/sholat yang selalu di-
gunakan oleh Bung Karno bersujud kepada Tuhan Yang Maha Esa untuk memohon bantuan bagi Perjuangan Kemerdekaan bangsa Indonesia hingga membekas di lantai. Dan di belakang museum Bung Karno terdapat sebuah sumur dengan kedalaman 12 meter yang digunakan oleh Bung Karno untuk mandi, cuci dan minum serta wudhu. Konon air sumur ini dipercaya mempunyai khasiat untuk menyembuhan berbagai penyakit dan bisa membuat orang menjad awet muda.
TEMPAT PERENUNGAN PANCASILA Sebatang pohon Sukun dengan lima cabang, terletak kira-kira 150 meter dari pantai Ende dan sebelah barat Lapangan Pancasila merupakan tempat dimana Bung Karno setiap sore, selepas sholat Azhar menghabiskan waktu untuk duduk merenung dalam keheningan malam. Diyakini gagasannya yang cemerlang akan Falsafah Negara Pancasila terlahir dalam proses permenungannya di bawah pohon Sukun ini. Dan ini diakui sendiri oleh Presiden Soekarno pada saat kunjungan kerja ke Ende tahun 1955. Pohon sukun yang menjadi naungan Bung Karno saat itu telah
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tumbang di tahun 60-an karena termakan usia dan sekarang adalah pohon kedua yang ditanam kembali sebagai duplikat untuk mengenang tempat Bung Karno merenungkan Dasar Negara dan pohon ini tumbuh subur dengan lima cabang yang diyakini oleh masyarakat Ende sebagai perwujudan ke-lima sila dari Pancasila. Dan untuk memperkuat fakta ini, Pemerintah Kabupaten Ende membangun Monument Pancasila yang terletak di persimpangan antara Jl. Kelimutu, Jl. El Tari, Jl. Gatot Subroto, jalan masuk Bandara Haji H. Aroeboesman dan Jl. Achmad Yani (yang lebih dikenal dengan nama Simpang Lima).
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AIR TERJUN TONGGOPAPA Air terjun Tonggopapa-nama yang masih asing bagi warga kota Ende-Flores. Hal ini dimaklumi, karena memang ikon pariwisata Ende masihlah Kelimutu yang tersohor dengan danau tiga warnanya. Tapi penulis meyakini, air terjun ini memberi nuansa yang berbeda ketika mengunjungi Flores atau Ende khususnya. Berjarak sekitar 15 km arah barat kota Ende, Air terjun Tonggopapa memberikan sensasi petualang yang cukup komplit. Buat anda penggila adventure motor bike, jalur sepanjang 5 km bagaikan trek motor cross. Ada jalan tanah berlumpur tipis, ada jalan desa dengan kerikil dan batu-batu lepas, belum lagi harus melewati sungai yang belum ada jembatannya. Buat anda yang suka dengan suasana pedesaan, mengunjungi air terjun ini seperti memuaskan dahaga yang tertahan bertahuntahun.
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The Committee of Bali & Beyond Travel Fair is excited to announce the participation of South Sumatra as this year’s Co-Host for the annual business to business (B2B) travel expo that will take place at Nusa Dua, Bali from 14 to 18 June 2017 More information, please visit our website at www.bbtf.or.id