EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT VAMPIRE CRABS | Geosesarma SP
Vampire crabs, Geosesarma SP, are small, freshwater crustaceans native to the rainforests of Indonesia. They are called vampire crabs because of their reddish-brown colour and their habit of drinking the blood of fish (not really). Despite their intimidating name, these crabs make for fascinating and low-maintenance pets. So here is everything you need to know about keeping vampire crabs as pets.
This German retailer has one of the best collections of crabs for sale if you want to look at some images of each crab.
Note: These scientific names and common names may not be recognized by all sources.
ENCLOSURE
Vampire crabs are small, with a maximum size of about 2 inches, so they do not require a large enclosure. A 5-gallon tank is the minimum size recommended for a group of two to three crabs (1 male 2 female), but a larger tank will provide more space for the crabs to explore and establish territories. It is important to provide plenty of hiding spots for the crabs, as they are shy and prefer to have places to retreat to. Coconut coir, cork bark, and live plants can all be used to create a natural and comfortable environment for your crabs.
IMPORTANT! Never mix crab species (colours) They will almost always fight to the death.
Vampire crabs need a humid environment, with a humidity level of 75% or higher. A humidifier can be used to increase the humidity, or you can mist the enclosure regularly with a water bottle. It is also important to provide a shallow dish of water for the crabs to drink from, as they are prone to dehydration. The water temperature should be kept between 22–28°C (71–82°F) and the pH should be between 7.5–8.0. The KH (carbonate hardness) should be between 0–10 and the GH (general hardness) should be between 4–16. Nitrate levels should be kept lower than 20 ppm.
IMPORTANT! It is important to have a lid on the tank to prevent the crabs from escaping.
SUBSTRATE
Vampire crabs require a substrate that is able to hold moisture and maintain a high level of humidity. Coconut coir or sphagnum moss work well as substrate materials. In the water section of the enclosure, a sandy substrate is recommended. On the land area, a dry/moist soil mix that the crabs can burrow into is needed. Bonsai soil mixed with coconut fibre is a good option. It is important to avoid using materials that can become compacted and make it difficult for the crabs to burrow.
ENVIRONMENT
Vampire crabs require an environment that is heavily planted, with about 80% land and 20% water. Taller plants and branches that the crabs can climb on and hide in are recommended. A variety of hiding spots, both in the water and on land, should be provided. Some suggested plant ideas include:
Pilea Peperomioides
Hypoestes
Climbing ivy
Asparagus fern
Peace lily
Tradescantia
Dwarf banana plants
and any type of ferns or moss.
Any plant commonly used in a terrarium will work well. In the water section of the enclosure, any aquarium plants can be used. Vampire crabs have been observed to catch and eat Salvinia, a floating plant, in captivity.
BEHAVIOUR
Vampire crabs are social creatures and should be kept in groups. It is recommended to have a ratio of one male to two females and to keep no more than three crabs per 5 gallons. It is important to provide plenty of hiding spots and enough space for all of the crabs to coexist peacefully. While they are generally peaceful, males can sometimes be territorial and may fight over females or resources. Each crab has a different personality and some may be more aggressive or social than others.
Vampire crabs are nocturnal and will be most active at night. During the day, they will usually be found hiding in their burrows or among the plants in their enclosure. They are not particularly active creatures, but they do enjoy exploring their environment and may be seen climbing on plants or rocks. A blue RGB strip light can be used to observe the crabs at night.
DIET & FOOD
Vampire crabs are omnivorous and will eat a variety of foods. In the wild, they primarily feed on small invertebrates and detritus (dead plant and animal matter). In captivity, they can be fed a variety of foods, including fruit, vegetables, and commercial crab pellets. Some suggested food options include boiled nettle, boiled spinach, boiled beans, boiled peas, boiled corn, boiled zucchini, banana, fish, shrimp, clams, snails, crickets, and other small bugs. Shrimp pellets are also a good option. It is important to provide a varied diet to ensure that your crabs receive all of the nutrients they need.
Vampire crabs are also known to drink the blood of fish, and it is not uncommon for owners to offer small, wounded fish to their crabs as a treat. However, it is important to exercise caution when feeding live prey to your crabs, as there is a risk of injury to both the prey and the crab.
COINHABITANTS
Springtails and isopods are beneficial to have in a crab enclosure, as they help to clean up any left over food and crab waste. It is important to only keep one species of crab together, as different species can interbreed but may also fight and kill each other.
BREEDING
Vampire crabs are relatively easy to breed in captivity. They are sexually dimorphic, with males having larger claws and a more prominent abdomen than females. Breeding typically occurs in the rainy season, and females will lay their eggs in the substrate, where they are fertilized by the males. The eggs will hatch into small, aquatic larvae, which will eventually metamorphose into adult crabs.
It is important to provide a suitable environment for breeding, including a high level of humidity and a substrate that is suitable for burrowing. It is also important to provide a separate enclosure for the females to lay their eggs in, as the eggs are vulnerable to being eaten by the adult crabs.
MOLTING
Vampire crabs shed their skin from time to time in a process called molting. They will do so in the water, so it is important to ensure that they have easy access to the water and a soft substrate to dig around in. Once they shed their skin, they will usually hide for a week or so. Their colour will also change during this period. Molting allows the crabs to regenerate lost limbs and to grow. It is a stressful process for the crabs and they should not be disturbed during this time.
Note: There are some species of Vampire Crabs (Mandarins) that seem to be able to molt on land. How common this is is not yet known or if it is their preferred way to molt. I guess we’ll find out more in time.
LIFE SPAN
The average lifespan of a vampire crab is 2 -2.5 years.
BUYING VAMPIRE CRABS ONLINE & SHIPPING.
This is where things get really complicated! Purchasing Geosesarma SP (Vampire Crabs) is difficult. Most online sellers are usually sold out with no restocking times. Especially in the US. Which pushes people to international sellers.
The problem with international sellers is that the crabs are in transit for an even longer period of time which increases their chances of dying dramatically. Finally, international sellers usually don’t follow all the required custom and biosecurity rules properly so you may be liable for costs and penalties when they finally do arrive. Wild caught crabs may also be carrying diseases. So please do not use international sellers to buy these crabs online.
Even with domestic and semi-local shipping a lot of crabs die in the shipping process. So if you are purchasing them online there is a high chance you will receive dead crabs or crabs that die within the first 2 weeks. Before you make a purchase online, check if there are any local breeders or sellers in your area, or nearby. You’re better off going for a short road trip to pick up crabs.
Finally, avoid any sellers that are offering rainbow packs or rainbow mixes. They clearly do not have your best interests in mind.
CONCLUSION
Vampire crabs are fascinating and low-maintenance pets that make for a unique addition to any home. With the proper housing, diet, and care, they can thrive in captivity and provide hours of entertainment for their owners. It is important to do research and properly set up their enclosure to ensure their health and happiness. You can find out even more by checking out my YouTube Channel IndoorEcosystem
All of the known species of Vampire Crab
All Geosesarma species at a glance
- Geosesarma aedituens Naruse & Jaafar, 2009
- Geosesarma albomita Yeo & Ng, 1999
- Geosesarma amphinome (De Man, 1899)
- Geosesarma angustifrons (A. Milne-Edwards, 1869)
- Geosesarma araneum (Nobili, 1899)
- Geosesarma aurantium Ng, 1995
- Geosesarma bau Ng & Jongkar, 2004
- Geosesarma bicolor Ng & Davie, 1995
- Geosesarma bintan T. M. Leong, 2014
- Geosesarma cataracta ng, 1986
- Geosesarma celebense (Schenkel, 1902)
- Geosesarma clavicrure (Schenkel, 1902)
- Geosesarma confertum (Ortmann, 1894)
- Geosesarma danumense Ng, 2003
- Geosesarma dennerle (Ng, Schubart & Lukhaup, 2015)
- Geosesarma foxi (Kemp, 1918)
- Geosesarma gordonae (Serène, 1968)
- Geosesarma gracillimum ((De Man, 1902))
- Geosesarma hagen (Ng, Schubart & Lukhaup, 2015)
- Geosesarma hednon (Ng, Liu & Schubart, 2003)
- Geosesarma ianthina Pretzmann, 1985
- Geosesarma insulare Ng, 1986
- Geosesarma johnsoni (Serène, 1968)
- Geosesarma katibas ng, 1995
- Geosesarma krathing Ng & Naiyanetr, 1992
- Geosesarma lawrencei Manuel-Santos & Yeo, 2007
- Geosesarma leprosum (Schenkel, 1902)
- Geosesarma maculatum (De Man, 1892)
- Geosesarma malayanum Ng & Lim, 1986
- Geosesarma nannophyes (De Man, 1885)
- Geosesarma nemesis Ng, 1986
- Geosesarma noduliferum (De Man, 1892)
- Geosesarma notophorum Ng & C. G. S. Tan, 1995
- Geosesarma ocypodum (Nobili, 1899)
- Geosesarma penangense (Tweedie, 1940)
- Geosesarma peraccae (Nobili, 1903)
- Geosesarma protos Ng & Takeda, 1992
- Geosesarma rathbunae (Serène, 1968)
- Geosesarma rouxi (Serène, 1968)
- Geosesarma sabanum Ng, 1992
- Geosesarma sarawakense (Serène, 1968)
- Geosesarma scandens ng, 1986
- Geosesarma serenei Ng, 1986
- Geosesarma solomonense (Serène, 1968)
- Geosesarma starmühlneri Pretzmann, 1984
- Geosesarma sumatraense Ng, 1986
- Geosesarma sylvicola (De Man, 1892)
- Geosesarma ternatense (Serène, 1968)
- Geosesarma teschi Ng, 1986
- Geosesarma thelxinoe (De Man, 1908)
- Geosesarma tiomanicum Ng, 1986
- Geosesarma vicentense (Rathbun, 1914)
