Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba, Vietnam

Day 171 – Ha Long Bay and Overnight on Junk Boat

I met my tour group in the morning to board a bus to Ha Long Bay. My friends Kevin and Liane had visited Vietnam a few years earlier and had connected me with a tour group that they highly recommended, complete with one night on a junk boat, and one night on Monkey Island just off Cat Ba. It was very clear from the get go that our bus and tour was one of many heading to the iconic Ha Long Bay – a huge tourist attraction in the area and UNESCO world heritage site. As we drove east out of the city, we passed through a vast countryside of rice paddies in a long procession of other tour buses.

Located a two-and-a-half-hour drive east of Hanoi, Ha Long Bay is an area of over 600 square miles that has thousands of limestone monolith islands, rising up from the turquoise waters of the bay. The name Ha Long means “descending dragon” in Vietnamese, and it was easy to see why once we arrived – the towering green islands poking up from the Beibu Gulf look like the scaly spine of a partially submerged monster. As we arrived in Tuan Chau Harbour, we disembarked and were directed to the small overnight junk boat that would take us around the bay. A junk boat is a traditional wooden boat found in Southeast Asia, mainly in China and Vietnam. Mostly powered by motors nowadays, the junk boats were historically used by fishermen and merchants, and were powered by wavy sails, shaped liked oversized fans.

We boarded our junk boat and were directed to our cabins to settle in. Shortly after we arrived, our captain pulled the boat out of the port, and we were off! I spent most of the day on the top deck, taking in the spectacular limestone islands and green waters in every direction. We stopped a few times throughout our cruise, once to visit a lookout point (which was so packed with other visitors that it took about 45 minutes to do a 15-minute hike!), and once to explore huge, beautiful caves with stalactites and staglamites. While Ha Long Bay was beautiful, the sheer presence of tourism and boats was quite overwhelming. While our boat was anchored and waiting to take us ashore, locals in tiny boats rowed between the bigger junk boats, hoping to sell products. I could also see garbage everywhere – from beaches scattered with plastic waterbottles, to garbage and plastic bags floating in the water I found this to be quite shocking and eye-opening – as this beautiful place felt both overrun and not taken care of.

I was happy for a reprieve from the crowds and other boats in the later afternoon, as we anchored for the evening in a more secluded cove. I hopped in a little kayak and paddled closer to the islands to explore. As the large boats carrying day trippers left for the day, Ha Long Bay became even more still and peaceful. Returning to the junk boat, I enjoyed a delicious Vietnamese Dinner, and watched the sun go down over the towering islands of the bay.

Day 172 – Ha Long Bay, Cat Ba and Monkey Island

I woke around 6am for the sunrise, determined to catch the first rays of light in the quiet moments of dawn. It was worth it! Aside from the occasional groans and creaks of the junk boat swaying on the water, the bay was silent and calm. As the sun peaked over the first limestone island, I could quickly feel the heat and humidity begin to rise. I headed back to bed to catch a few more hours of shut-eye before the day ahead!

In the morning, we tucked in for a delicious breakfast as we cruised through the bay towards Cat Ba Port, passing floating fishing villages, oyster farms, and multi-coloured fishing boats, heading out for a day of work. Arriving on Cat Ba, the largest island of Ha Long Bay, we disembarked from our junk boat to head into Cat Ba Town, the main village on the island. As we drove along dirt roads, we saw women in conical sun hats, selling potatoes and other vegetables at stands along the road. Large caves were visible in the distant cliffs, and our guide told us that many of these had been used as hideouts during the Vietnam war.

The town of Cat Ba was a kaleidoscope of life. Bird cages hung from the awnings of the tall, narrow homes. Fruit vendors with poles slung over their shoulders walked along the streets. Tiny Banh Mi stands could be found on every corner. Locals walked along the road, carrying smoothies and coffees with plastic carrying bags. In backyards and fields just outside of town, burning piles of garbage were occasionally visible. We drove through town on a Sunday and saw a few bright wedding tents erected outside of restaurants, with weddings in full swing as we passed by! The front porch culture and daily life of the town was visible at every turn, with locals working, celebrating, and going about their daily business in close proximity to others.

In the afternoon, I separated from my group as I had opted to spend my second night on nearby Monkey Island at a small, peaceful resort. I took a smaller junk boat across to the jetty of the resort, which was tucked into a small cove with a beach. I was shown to my private hut, constructed with varnished wooden walls and a thatched roof, with a small deck facing the ocean. I was glad for an afternoon of peace and relaxation after the chaos and frenetic tourism of Halong Bay! I spent most of the day reading, and in the late afternoon hiked up to the high point on the island. More of a rainforest bush-whack than a true trail, I had to duck under vines and scramble over spiked limestone boulders to make my way to the top. The view was well worth it though – with hundreds of jagged islands of Halong Bay visible in the near and far distance! Returning to the resort, I enjoyed a delicious buffet meal and glass of wine on the beach before heading off to bed for a long sleep.

Day 173 – Halong Bay to Hanoi

Today was a travel day with many legs! Junk boat to van, van to larger junk boat, junk boat to tour bus back to Hanoi. The journey back through the bay to the mainland port was just as spectacular as the outbound trip, and I resumed my perch on the top deck, taking it all on.

Arriving back in Hanoi in the early evening, I picked up my pack from my previous hostel and checked into a different hostel in the old quarter – this time in a shared dorm room to save a bit of money! I chatted with a few other travelers and walked to the nearby Pasteur Street Brewery for a sample of Vietnamese craft beer. It was delicious – with the flight pours being almost dangerously big!

Pasteur Street Brewing

Sapa Mountains, Vietnam

Day 167 – Hanoi to Sapa

View of Sapa Mountains from my Hostel

I boarded my bus in Hanoi to take the 6-hour jour journey northwest into the Sapa Mountains, near the Chinese border.  The further north we went, the mountain roads became progressively windier and more hazardous, with our bus creeping around blind curves in the road, and steep passes as we approached Sapa Town. Finally disembarking from the bus many hours later, I took in the picturesque little town, perched on the side of a wide valley lined with rice terraces. In the distance, hazy green peaks provided a striking backdrop to the town and paddy fields. As I walked towards my hostel for the evening, many hilltribe women dressed traditional garments approached me with countless goods for sale, from handicrafts, food, trekking tours, and hotels. Sapa is known for being a large community of ethnic minorities in Vietnam, with the Hmong and Dao peoples being the most prominent groups in the valley. These hill tribes give Sapa a unique character, as the incredible cultural heritage of these ethnic groups has been well preserved in the area. The intricate textiles and embroidery used in the traditional clothing of these minority tribes could be also seen throughout the town, with different colours and patterns on clothing, signifying which hilltribe a person is a part of.

Wandering through a series of allies and through the Sapa main square, I began to ascend the hill overlooking town towards my hostel as evening was falling. I was fortunate to arrive on a day with good weather, as given the northern location and altitude of the area, the temperature and climate can vary drastically day to day. As I was travelling through Sapa in early March, I was prepared for all sorts of weather – especially as I was planning to go trekking for several days!

Minority Villages in the Valley

The temperature began to drop quickly as the sun set, and I was very thankful for a small block heater in my hostel room. I spent the evening relaxing after my long day of travel, and (surprisingly!) watching the Oscars, which happened to be on television in my tiny hostel room. This was yet another reminder to me, that even though I was so far away from home, of how much global culture we all share.

Day 168 – Hiking in the Sapa Mountains

Rice Paddies in Sapa Valley

I woke up early in the morning and prepared my small pack for the next two days, as I would be hiking through the Sapa Mountains and sleeping overnight at a homestay with a Vietnamese family. Leaving the rest of my belongings in hostel storage, I headed into the Sapa main square, where I navigated my way to Sapa Sisters, a Hmong trekking group entirely owned and run by women. I met up with my guide May, who was high energy, enthusiastic, and over a head shorter than me!  I told her that I was keen on doing a challenging trek off the beaten path, and without missing a beat, she grinned at me and said “well, we better get on our way!”.  My favourite part about this trek is that it was one-on-one, where I was able to spend hours over the following days chatting with May about our lives and cultures. She also made sure that we were Facebook friends almost right away!  

My wonderful guide May showing me the way!

We spent the day climbing along the ridges and through bamboo forests of the Sapa Valley, with hazy mountains in the distance and terraced rice paddies along our route. Along some of the narrow paths, we would occasionally encounter local residents on small scooters, making their way to different ethnic villages clustered throughout the mountains. Periodically we would pass a home or farm, where we would see grazing water buffaloes, and plastic pop bottles filled with petrol for sale – the “gas stations” of the mountains! We stopped for a delicious Vietnamese lunch in one of the villages, before continuing onwards to our Homestay for the evening.

Our Hmong Homestay for the evening

At our Homestay family, I met another young American girl, Megan, who was also doing a solo trek with another guide from Sapa Sisters. Our Homestay family hardly spoke any English, but were immediately kind and hospitable, ensuring we had a delicious homemade meal, and setting us up for the night on mattresses with bug nets in the upstairs loft of the traditional home. While we were not really able to communicate with them, it was fascinating to get a brief look into the life of a family in Sapa. Megan and I spent some time after dinner wandering around the village before crashing for the evening. The loft was fortunately cool and breezy, and provided a perfect place to sleep after a long day of hiking. I was occasionally awakened throughout the night by dogs barking nearby - but was so tired I was almost immediately fell back asleep.

Villages throughout the Sapa Valley

Water Buffalo

Day 169 – Hiking in the Sapa Mountains

…Which was a good thing, as I was awakened by a rooster at the crack of dawn! May and I set out for the final day of our trek as we returned to Sapa. We crossed several large rivers at the bottom of the valley, spanned by long suspension bridges. Hmong villagers used the river to clean their laundry, and I saw a number of families lining the banks, with women washing clothing and children playing in the nearby waters. As we passed through different villages, I could see how the textiles and clothing worn in Sapa vary from village to village, with distinctive patterns and colours worn in different communities.  Mid morning, May bought us two stalks of sugar cane in one of the villages – a mid morning snack to munch on as we walked. We eventually ascended the valley to a village connected to the road back to Sapa, where we tucked in for a well-deserved lunch, before we jumped on the back of two motorcycles back to town, clinging on to the driver for dear life as we wound along the mountainous roads. I arrived back in Sapa in the late afternoon, and sadly bid goodbye to my terrific guide May. I wandered though the town streets and back to my hostel for the evening, where I grabbed a quick dinner, then crashed for the evening.

Day 170 – Sapa Mountains to Hanoi

I set off early in the morning from Sapa for a long day of travel – hopping on a 6 hour sleeper bus ride back from Sapa to Hanoi. A powerful thunderstorm was rolling through the mountains as I left, with mist and clouds rolling over the mountains surrounding town. Soaking wet in mere minutes, I briefly struggled to locate my pickup point, as there was no traditional terminal, and just an address that was provided for pick-up. These addresses could be a hotel, store or supermarket!, and very little signage was available to confirm that you were in the right place. Fortunately there were a few other people clearly heading back to Hanoi, so between all of us, we were finally able to figure it out! This was a bit of an interesting travel day, as there was no bathroom on the bus, and only a single stop, which I had the bad fortune of sleeping through! (Long story short, I had to pee in my Nalgene – and was very thankful for the curtains in the sleeper bunks!).

I returned to the old Quarter of Hanoi in mid afternoon, and returned to the same hostel. I set out in search of a classic bánh mì sandwich. In Vietnam, a bánh mì is a baguette cut down the middle with typical ingredients such as pork sausage or pâté, cilantro, cucumber, pickled carrot, red chili, and mayo. The use of a baguette was introduced over 100 years ago during the French colonial period, and combined with traditional Vietnamese ingredients, turned the banh mi sandwich into a popular street food. I wandered around the old Quarter afterwards, poking into art stores, before heading back to my hostel for the evening, prepping for an early morning pick-up the following morning to visit Halong Bay and Cat Ba Island for the next 3 days.  My friends Kevin and Liane had visited Vietnam a few years earlier and connected me with a tour group that came highly recommended, complete with one night on a junk boat, and one night on Monkey Island just off Cat Ba.

Hanoi, Vietnam

Day 165 – Luang Prabang to Hanoi, Vietnam

I spent my final morning in Luang Prabang at Joma Café, a delicious bakery/café that my uncle Alan had recommended, run by a Canadian expat! I was surprised (and very excited) that the café served Canada’s famous Nanaimo Bar, and picked up one to have a ‘taste of home’ along with my coffee. I tucked into a cozy booth for several hours, doing research and bookings for the final 5 weeks of my trip, including Vietnam, Cambodia, Bangkok and Japan.

In the late afternoon, I packed up my bag and headed to the town centre to hire a Tuk Tuk to take me to the airport. At this point in Southeast Asia, I had become pretty used to negotiating a price when taking a Tuk Tuk, and agreed upon a price with the driver. However, he ended up demanding a higher price at the airport, after we had arrived. Even after months of travel, I was still never quite sure what to do in these situations, which occasionally arose. Given the increased charge that the driver demanded was little more than 50c Canadian, it felt petty to argue over such a small amount. At the same time, the whole practice also felt dishonest, and I struggled with it in principle – particularly wondering in the back of my mind whether I was a target of arbitrary price increases because I was a woman travelling alone. Irritated but not wanting to argue, I grudgingly paid the full amount and headed into the airport to catch my flight to Hanoi.

After a short flight to the east, I touched down in Vietnam just as the sun was setting. Having secured my e-visa to the country in advance, I sailed through customs and into the arrivals hall, where I had pre-arranged an airport transfer to take me into the old town of the city. While I generally preferred to take public transit or hail a tuk-tuk when backpacking, I had become cautious with my transportation when arriving at airports after dark. From my research on Hanoi, I had heard that taxi scams are unfortunately common, where certain drivers are paid by hotels and hostels to drive unwitting passengers to the wrong location, or charge excessive fares, to the point where a passenger would need to go to an ATM, or pay in foreign currency. In the communication I had received in advance from my hostel in Hanoi, I had also been fully briefed on possible scams in transit, and chose to pre-pay for a transfer to avoid the worry. I had also purchased a new Vietnamese SIM card in the airport, so that I could ensure I could follow my route to the old town city.

As my ride pulled away from the airport, we were almost immediately surrounded by scooters – hundreds of them! Weaving in and out of traffic, the drivers leaned heavily on their horns as they navigated their scooters along the road - carrying everything from tall plants, flowers and produce, and sometimes up to 3-4 people! After the quiet atmosphere of Luang Prabang, where honking was rare in the old city centre, the streets of Hanoi were quite the opposite, bursting with sounds from every direction. Heading South, we crossed the Red River and approached the Old Quarter of the city.

As it happened, even with my pre-arranged airport transfer, my driver still tried to drop me off at the wrong hostel. Fortunately I had already located my correct destination in Hanoi on Google Maps, and after much back-and-forth, and insistence on my part, I was finally taken to the correct destination. The streets of the old quarter are so narrow that cars cannot go down them, and I walked the final few minutes to my hostel on foot. I passed other hostels with live music, and food vendors with plastic stools arranged near their stalls for people to sit and eat. My friends from Vancouver, Kevin and Liane, had previously stayed at this hostel, Original Backpackers, a few years earlier, and recommended it highly – and rightly so! I felt immediately welcomed by the friendly staff, and began to relax again after many hours in transit. After several weeks of communal living, I had decided to pay a small premium for a private room, where I had a long, hot shower, before crashing immediately for the night.

Typical Food Stalls in the Old Quarter

Narrow Streets in the Old Quarter, with a perfectly placed photobomber!

Day 166 – Hanoi

I only had one full day in Hanoi – and woke up early, determined to pack in as much as possible! Through the front desk of my hostel, I arranged a motorbike “Backstreet Tour” for that afternoon, where a local Vietnamese guide would take me around the city on a motorbike to show me both popular sites, and what day-to-day life looked like in Hanoi.

In the morning, I began to wander the Old Quarter of Hanoi nearby to my hostel. This historic city has been inhabited for over a thousand years, and has been shaped by a complex history – from ancient kingdoms, dynasties and wars, French colonialism, Japanese occupation during the second world war, to more recently, with the influences of communism and the Vietnam War. After the war ended in the 1970s, it wasn’t until 1990s that the country began to open up to the outside world again, bringing in new opportunities for tourism and economic development. Modern day Hanoi is home to a multi-cultural community with strong French, Chinese and Russian influences. French colonial architecture continues to be visible throughout the city, with some streets resembling historic neighbourhoods in Paris. Near the Old Quarter, a large gothic cathedral constructed by French still stands; St. Josephs is one of the first structures built by the colonialists as they expanded their reach into Southeast Asia. Remarkably, the cathedral is still in good condition despite  the wars of the last century.

The Old Quarter, part of a former citadel wall, is made up of a narrow series of alleys, tightly packed together. The historic area is known for its clusters of workshops, skilled craftsman, artisans and guilds, with the 40 streets of the area each named for the primary good and service provided on each street. It was a lively place to wander through in the morning; locals sat down on low, colourful plastic stools set up by street vendors, eating a breakfast of noodles. Honking scooters whizzed up and down the alleys, narrowing dodging each other. I spotted a few people playing chess in a doorway, right next to a vendor selling produce off the back of a scooter. I passed through one street mostly selling flowers, before turning the corner to find another street with almost all bamboo products. 

I wandered further east to Hoan Kiem Lake, finally making an attempt to cross a major street – with scooters, cars and pedestrians going in every which way! One good piece of advice I had been given by friends who had visited Hanoi was to simply walk out into traffic at a slow, steady pace (without any sudden moves or stops!) and the scooters would simply weave around you. I walked beside locals crossing on my first few attempts, but it wasn’t long before I got the hang of it!

I stopped at Note Coffee to try my first Vietnamese-style egg coffee. This drink is traditionally prepared by beating egg yolks with sugar and milk, and bringing this mixture to a boil, before pouring in coffee. The result is a foamy, dessert-like coffee – and was delicious! The café itself was also unusual – with its walls decorated with thousands upon thousands of colourful post-it notes, with messages from previous visitors. The result made the entire café look like a giant art installation, and reminded me of Yayoi Kusama’s dotted “obliteration room”. Sufficiently loaded up on sugar and caffeine, I continued onwards towards the lake, popping into a few art galleries and stalls on my way. Along the streets, I was constantly amazed by the number of vendors selling fruit, art, and countless other items off the back of their scooters. Pushing or driving their laden motorbike through the crowds, these vendors would make sales right, left and centre – all while keeping moving!

Arriving at the banks of Hoan Kiem Lake, I crossed a traditional, red wooden bridge to Ngoc Son Temple, located on a small island in the middle of the lake. Aside from the crowds of other tourists, it was a quiet respite from the buzz of the surrounding Old City of Hanoi.

As it was approaching noon, I returned to my hostel to meet Kien, my local guide for the afternoon motorbike tour. Slightly younger than me, Kien had grown up in Hanoi, and was excellent company for the afternoon. His motorbike was a vintage, army-green, “Minsk”, a heavy duty motorbike that was brought back from the Soviet Union in the 80s. As luck would have it – I was the only person on the tour that day, which allowed Kien to take me out and around the city for almost 7 hours! I could scarcely believe that I was able to see and experience so much of Hanoi in a day.

Kien first took me to Train Street, where twice a day a speeding train passes through the Old Quarter, mere feet from the front stoops of people’s homes. We continued onwards to Hanoi’s notorious black market, where vendors sell everything from car and mechanical parts to appliances, DVDs and electronics. Kien pointed out things as we cycled; the dense scramble of black electric wires overhead called “black noodles” by the locals; the French colonial architecture throughout the city; and the “tube houses” of the Old Quarter – narrow homes that exchanged their width for height and depth – as a way of lowering property tax, since the wider your house, the more you pay! Many of these tall, skinny homes had large water cannisters mounted on the top of the buildings, used to maintain water pressure. We also visited a few wet markets – where every imaginable item was for sale, from a rainbow of produce to live turtles, eels, and frogs.  

Train Street

Between our ventures into different areas of the city, Kien took me to many local restaurants and wet markets along the way, to try a wide range of different Vietnamese food, including more Ca Phe Trung (egg coffee), Banh Mi Chao (a hearty breakfast skillet), Banh Cuon (rice rolls, stuffed with pork), Pho Cuon (fresh beef rolls), Pho, and Banana Flower Salad. We also stopped at a tiny Bia Hoi right stand next to the road – “Bia Hoi” literally translating to “fresh beer”, and is draught beer that is sold on street corners and tiny bars throughout the city. It is delivered daily and is tapped straight out of a large steel barrel. Kien and I sat on tiny red plastic stools on the pavement, sipping the light beer and snacking on roasted peanuts from a nearby vendor.  

Fruit Markets

A typical neighbourhood Bia Hoi Stand

A particularly interesting part of the day is when Kien took me East of the city center to the banks of the Red River. I was able to walk along Cau Long Bien, a colonial-era cantilever bridge that was heavily bombarded during the Vietnam war, as it was a key point of connection between Hanoi and the nearby port. Spanning a mile and a half in length, it is still one of the longest cantilever truss bridges in the world. While only part of the original bridge still stands, the bridge continues to be a symbol of pride for the Vietnamese people. Underneath the Cau Long Bien, impoverished families live in a cluster of floating homes, make-shift shelters that have been built on rafts of plastic barrels.

Cau Long Bien 

Floating Homes on the Delta

We continued onwards to Bai Giua, or “Banana Island”, an island located in the middle of the Red River next to Hanoi. Since this island is on a flood plain, no apartments or concrete buildings are allowed, and the island is mostly used for farming, including fields of bananas and papayas. Kien maneouvered his motorcycle down a maze of dirt paths between the fields as we explored the island. Barking dogs sometimes came up to our motorcycle, and ran along next to us for a while, before dropping off the trail again. We passed by many farmers working in the fields, typically wearing a conical, straw hat, (called “Non La”) tied around the wearer’s chin with a piece of cloth. These multi-purpose hats not only protect farmers from the fierce tropical sun, but can be used as a fan and also as a basin for water.

As the sun began to set over the Red River, we headed back into Hanoi, and drove along the large, tree lined boulevards around the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the Presidential Palace. Our day ended with a bit of a surprise - as Kien’s motorcycle broke down in the middle of an intersection! Fortunately, this seemed to be a common-enough occurrence in Hanoi, and all the other bikes moved around us seamlessly as we tried to get off the road. All in a day’s adventure! Arriving back in the Old Quarter after a terrific day of exploring Hanoi, I quickly crashed for the night, as I would be waking up early the following morning to catch a bus into the Sapa Mountains, a day’s journey northwest of Hanoi.

Luang Prabang, Laos - Part 2

Day 163 – Luang Prabang and the Mekong River

Heading out into Luang Prabang in the blue hour before dawn, I headed towards the temples and monasteries in the historic town centre. On one side of the street, many locals were already seated on the ground or small stools, awaiting the arrival of the monks. Luang Prabang’s almsgiving ceremony is a centuries-old tradition in Laos’ Buddhist culture. Every day as the sun rises, several hundred Buddhist monks leave their temples to gather their one daily meal. Locals prepare food and wait at the roadside to give their alms to the passing monks.

Almsgiving in Luang Prabang

Waiting for the arrival of the monks, I found a bench on the far side of the road, as I wanted to observe the ceremony respectfully and from a distance. Before long, a procession of monks clad in their traditional orange robes began to approach. I observed the locals kneel down to present their offerings to the monks, including items such as small packages of rice and fresh fruit. The lengthy ceremony was completed in utter silence, as the etiquette is to neither talk nor touch the monks, even when putting an offering in their baskets. It was clearly a peaceful, spiritual ceremony, and it was a privilege to witness this ancient ritual. 

Setting off on our day trip up the Mekong

I returned to my guesthouse to meet up with Tonya for breakfast, following which we headed down to the river to board our long-boat, which would be taking us for a day trip up the Mekong River. It was a relaxing way to spend the day, taking in the boats, towns, temples, farmland and other sights along the river. Our first stop was at Ban Xiang Hai, a small riverside village also known as “Whiskey Village”. The town is known for its potent “Lao Lao” rice whiskey, and a few other unusual whiskies: Bee Whiskey - which is “Good for Sex” and Snake Whiskey - which is “Good for Strength”. In the whiskey bottles on display, dead snakes and insects were visible, with the idea that the liquor would absorb different medicinal properties, depending on what was place in the bottle. Tonya and I summoned up the courage to take a shot of snake whiskey - which was exactly the colour and taste I imagine battery acid would be! After our shudder-worthy libations, we spent a short while exploring the village, exploring the local Wats, and admiring the Hmong linens in the village – beautifully hand-dyed in a rainbow of colours. A pungent smell wafted through the air, and it took me a while before I noticed a large tree overhanging the temple grounds, with dozens of durian fruit, still on the vine. 

Lao Lao, Snake and Bee Whiskey

Durians on the vine

Returning to our long boat, we continued further upsteam to our next stop, the Pak Ou Caves. This holy Buddhist site is built into natural caves formed in limestone cliffs directly above the river. The caves contained thousands of statues and effigies of Buddha – in every shape, size and material imaginable. The cave close to the river was well lit by the daylight, bit as we explored the deeper caves, we had to use our flashlights – still finding countless Buddha statues hidden in the darkest corners! The Pak Ou Caves are said to have been a sight of worship for thousands of years, where legend also has it that the caves are the home to river spirits. It was incredible to take in the jungle landscapes around the cave, and the distant mountains visible across the river. 

Long Boats along the Mekong River

Pak Ou Caves

Pak Ou Caves

In the afternoon, Tonya headed back to Luang Prabang by river boat, enjoying some local dishes on board as we motored along. Ready to cool off from the heat, we hailed a tuk-tuk in town to La Pistoche Pool – another recommendation from my expat friend Brandon - to cool off and have some Lao Beer! It was a perfect way to spend a few hours relaxing in the shade after the many activities of the day. As night fell, we headed back to the historic centre, opting to go for a sit-down dinner at the Coconut Garden, a restaurant in one of the old colonial buildings along the main street. Sitting on a beautiful patio lit up with hanging lanterns, we enjoyed local dishes including blue sticky rice, beef and onion dishes, and glass noodles. After dinner, we meandered along the main street, talking in the lively atmosphere and popping into different shops. I purchased a few textiles and souvenirs along the main street, before we returned to our hostel, crashing for the evening after our full day.   

Day 164 – Kuang Si Falls and Luang Prabang

In the morning Tonya and I boarded a small bus heading to Kuang Si Falls, 30 kilometres south of Luang Prabang. We passed through small villages on our way, often separated by large rice fields. Occasionally, I noticed small fires of burning garbage. At the time of my visit, Laos had hardly any infrastructure for waste disposal and recycling, and burning trash was seen as an affordable method of disposal. I had noticed the issue with waste the day before when I was on the Mekong, as some sections of shoreline were completely covered in plastic waste. Since my visit to Laos, some cities in the country have banned the burning of garbage, but many of the issues with pollution that I witnessed during my visit are unfortunately still ongoing. 

Kuang Si Falls

Leaving the villages and rice fields behind, we entered into the jungle surrounding Kuang Si Waterfalls a series of pale turquoise falls tumbling over limestone cliffs, shaded by a green canopy of leaves and vines. The water and limestone had formed naturally tiered swimming pools, which Tonya and I proceeded to spend a few hours in – swimming and exploring. The natural setting was completely stunning and relaxing. 

Returning to Luang Prabang in the late afternoon, Tonya and I set out to find “Secret Pizza” – a small restaurant started by an expat from Italy about 10 years earlier, where her reputation for delicious wood-fired pizzas and Italian dishes spread throughout the town, to both locals and expats alike. This was yet another tip from my Canadian friend who had lived in Laos for a year, and it was well worth it. Tonya and I shared a few different types of pizza, and a bottle of Italian wine – all on a patio in the middle of South East Asia! Capping off our final night in Laos, we decided to head back to the bar at Utopia, meandering through a maze of backstreets (with far too many barking dogs  nearby for my comfort!). We spent the next few hours sharing drinks with other travellers, all before heading home at 11pm – as all bars shut early in Luang Prabang!

Luang Prabang, Laos - Part 1

Day 161 – Chiang Mai, Thailand to Luang Prabang, Laos

In the afternoon, I packed up my bag and hailed a Red Songthaew to Chiang Mai’s airport, boarding a small, propeller plane that would take me to Luang Prabang, Laos. The flight was short, about an hour and a half east, over the mountainous green highlands. The air outside was thick and hazy, caused by smoke from burning farmer’s fields. I learned that between February-April, this was fairly common for northern Thailand and Laos, as farmers burn their fields before reseeding the soil.

Arriving at the small, red roofed airport in Luang Prabang, I quickly passed through customs, paying for my visa on arrival with US dollars. It was an interesting visa experience for me, as the visa application fee varied depending on the home country of the traveller – with Canadians paying the highest amount of any listed country. After doing some research after the fact, it appears that this is based on the reciprocal cost a Laotian would need to pay to visit Canada. Furthermore, the visa costs are also apparently related to the amount of international aid provided to Laos, where citizens of countries which have provided a higher level of aid pay lower visa costs as a result. I had not given much thought to the reciprocity of international visas before my arrival in Laos, and this was an eye-opening, educational experience for me.

As I was negotiating for a ride into town in the arrivals hall, I had the very good fortune of meeting a fellow traveller from San Francisco, Tonya, who was also travelling by herself. We quickly found out that we were also staying at the same guesthouse, and became immediate friends! Sharing a ride into town on a multi-coloured tuk-tuk, we also realized that we had a very similar itinerary planned around Asia for the coming few months! After settling into our hostel for the evening, we headed out into the town as the sun was setting.

Luang Prabang

The small city of Luang Prabang is built on a peninsula at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, surrounded by lush green mountains. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, Luang Prabang was once the capital of the historic Lane Xang Kingdom from the 14th to 16th centuries (also known as the “Kingdom of a Million Elephants”). Luang Prabang was also a historic trade centre in Southeast Asia, given its proximity to the meandering Mekong Rivier, which runs for almost 5,000 km through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam.

Luang Prabang is also known for being the centre for Buddhism in Laos, and has many active temples, or “Vats” scattered throughout the town centre. The town was part of a French protectorate between 1893 and 1954, and the colonial influences of this era can still be seen in the architecture throughout the urban centre. Modern day Luang Prabang showcases traditional and French colonial styles throughout the town. Given the current UNESCO protections, the historic town centre was also remarkably free of the overdevelopment that can come with tourism. It was evident to me that the town had taken great care to protect their cultural heritage and architecture, with conservation and sustainability in mind.

Luang Prabang Night Market

As evening fell, Tonya and I wandered over a short distance to Sisavangvong Road, the main street through the peninsula, which was bustling with a vibrant night market.  The street had been closed off to vehicles and scooters, and there were hundreds of red and blue covered stalls and bamboo mats lining the street, selling countless beautiful and unique wares. There was an incredible collection of handicrafts, ceramics, silks, clothing, antiques and other souvenirs for sale. Many of the items sold were handmade by ethnic groups in the nearby hills, although some stalls also sold cheap, imported trinkets. Overall, the market had a relaxed atmosphere, with the vendors typically waiting for the visitor to inquire about the items rather than making sales pitches. One stall in particular caught my eye – where the trader was selling jewellery and cutlery which were apparently made by recycling fragments of bombs which had been dropped on Laos by the United States during the Vietnam War.

I had no previous knowledge of the bombing campaign in Laos during the war, and was stunned to learn that there were close to 600,000 bombing campaigns in Laos between 1964-1973, with the goal to cut off supply lines along the Ho Chi Minh Trail running into Vietnam. To this day, there are estimated to be almost 80 million unexploded bombs throughout the country, which continue to kill innocent men, women and children who happen to come upon them – near half a century later. It sickened me to think about all of the bombs lying dormant in fields and forests throughout this picturesque, welcoming country.

Tonya and I briefly stopped by a money exchange to switch out our US dollars to Laotian Kip. The local denominations were huge - with banknote amounts ranging between K500 to K100,000. For the remainder of my time in Laos, this made it quite challenging to monitor just how much money I had, as the many “zeros” on the banknotes automatically tricked my brain into thinking I had more money than I actually did!

One of the Many Fresh Smoothie Stands in the Market

We spent the remainder of the evening browsing the night market, sampling spicy Laotian dishes at the food stalls along the street, and enjoying passionfruit smoothies. It was a great first day in Laos, and I was lucky to have equally terrific company with Tonya!

Day 162 – Luang Prabang

After grabbing breakfast at our hostel and befriending a few other travellers, Tonya and I headed out to explore town, passing first through the morning farmer’s market just along the street outside. The vendors start setting up before sunrise, and it was already busy as we walked through around 8:30am. Local produce and the catch-of-the-day were set up for sale on mats on the ground. Ready-to-eat snacks were also for sale, such as charcoal-grilled honeycomb, baelfruit, mung-bean rice cakes, Mok Pa (a dish cooked with catfish caught in the Mekong), Lao Khao Soi, various meats cooked in banana leaf, Khao Jee Pate (a Laotian take on a Banh Mi Baguette sandwich) barbecued frog, water buffalo sausage, coconut milk pancakes, young coconuts, various noodle dishes, and even grilled rat – just to name a few snacks! We enjoyed stolling along the street, chatting with the friendly vendors, and taking in the vibrant colours, sights and smells of the market.

We continued onwards to the bank of the Mekong River, lined with palm and banana trees. Long, shallow river boats churned through the milky brown water below. Beyond the wide, lazy river, we could see lush green mountains in the distance. As we walked along the embankment, various tour operators approached us, trying to sell us tours in these slow riverboats. While we were certainly interested, Tonya and I had done our research on reputable tours, and planned to purchase our trip up the Mekong for the following day.

Drying Orange Robes in a Monastery in Luang Prabang

Turning inland, we began to meander along the quieter streets of town, lined with traditional Lao houses and guesthomes, many of which were constructed with bamboo materials during the colonial period. The UNESCO protections in the town continued to be evident, as there were no high-rise buildings or large tour buses anywhere in the town centre. Tuk-tuks and scooters were by far the most common means of transportation for locals and visitors. As we walked, we occasionally passed some active Buddhist monasteries, and while we could not enter, we could see the laundered orange robes of the monks hanging out to dry.  

Wat Xieng Thong

We visited one of the best-known monasteries in the town centre, Wat Xieng Thong. Dating back to the 16th century, the temple complex housed a gilded ordination hall, with large, sweeping roofs, along with numerous stupas, chapels, a library, a drum tower, and a funeral carriage - historically used to carry the urns of Lao royalty. The architecture throughout Wat Xieng Thong was simply stunning, with every structure richly decorated with engravings, colourful mosaics, paintings, gilding and elaborate sculptures.  

A close-up of mosaics at Wat Xieng Thong

Ready for some shade and bite to eat, Tonya and I headed to the banks of the Nam Khan River, crossing a bamboo footbridge to the far bank. The bamboo bridges of Luang Prabang are built by local families on an annual basis, facilitating the journey to and from the old quarter of the city. Incredibly, though these bridges are solely built from bamboo and rope, they are very sturdy! As visitors to Luang Prabang, Tonya and I paid a small toll to cross the bridge, which contributes to the upkeep and annual bridge replacement.

Bamboo Bridge across the Nam Khan River

On the far banks of the river, we arrived at Dyen Sabai  – a restaurant recommended by a friend of mine from Western, Brandon - who had briefly lived abroad in Laos, and had generously given me all sorts of local recommendations! He had highly recommended that I visit Dyen Sabai for their Lao Buffalo Fondue. The setting was peaceful – Tonya and I sat on low futons at a riverside table, surrounded by a beautiful bamboo garden. The buffalo fondue dish turned out to be cooked in a similar way to Chinese hot pot/Korean BBQ. The servers prepared a small charcoal fire in a metal container built into the table, before placing a specialized cover overtop. This set-up allowed Tonya and I to cook the meat ourselves on the grill and cook the vegetables in the broth. It was a delicious (and interactive!) meal, a recommendation well worth it.

Buffalo Fondue at Dyen Sabai

After lunch, we traversed back over the bridge, and walked along the banks of the Nam Khan river to Utopia, a outdoor bar and bucket-list destination for any backpacker to the area (I think I had about 10 different friends recommend I go!). Tonya and I spent several hours of the late afternoon enjoying several Beer Lao while sitting on the floor cushions, chatting with other travellers and taking in the incredible ambiance of this lively riverside bar.

Nam Khan River

As evening began to fall, we returned to the town centre to climb Mount Phousi for sunset. A small mountain located in the heart of the historic town centre, Phou-si literally translates to “sacred hill”, and stands approximately 100m tall. While it was a bit of a climb to the top, I was happy for the exercise! Along the trail as we ascended were many gilded statues of Buddha, with a small temple and golden stupa at the summit. Arriving just on time for sunset, we took in an incredible 360-degree view of Luang Prabang, the Mekong River shimmering in a deep shade of orange, reflecting the mesmerizing sky above. The distant mountains were blanketed in a smoky haze from the burning of brush and farmers fields.  While the hill was packed with tourists who had the same idea as us – it was still a wonderful way to end a day of exploring the city. Ready to tuck into some more of Laos’ famous street food, Tonya and I returned to the night market along Sisavangvong Road, taking in the brightly lit red and blue booths framed by tall palm trees and the opulent Royal Palace. After sharing and sampling countless delicious dishes, we headed back to our hostel, stopping at a booth on the main road to purchase tickets for our boat trip up the Mekong River the following day. I crashed almost immediately, as I was planning to wake up before dawn to view the morning Almsgiving ceremony, a daily tradition of local Buddhist monks.

Sunset from Mount Phousi

Chiang Mai, Thailand - Part 2

Day 159 – Chiang Mai

In the morning I was picked up at my hostel in Chiang Mai, joining a small group of travellers as we headed north into the mountains. After having done tons of research and crowdsourcing from friends of mine who had recently been to the area (thanks to Dejan, Norm, Andrea and Hayleigh!) I had booked a full day trip with the Elephant Nature Park, a sanctuary and rescue centre for Asian elephants.

With their numbers declining steadily over the past century, there were estimated to be only 4,000 elephants remaining in Thailand at the time of my visit. The population had decreased for numerous reasons, including hunting, use of elephants in logging and forestry until 1988, and the expansion of farms and towns into areas where elephants once lived. At the Elephant Nature Park, the elephants in rehabilitation and care had also been rescued from tourist operations where the elephants were used for rides and circus shows.

I had chosen to visit one of their sanctuaries in the lush highlands, where I spent the day walking through the jungle with 4 rescued elephants, feeding them bamboo and taking in the beautiful scenery. Apparently, elephants spend 15-18 hours of their day eating, and eat about 3.5 tons of food per day! It was a truly incredible day spent with these playful, gentle giants.

Heading back to town for the evening, I met up with a fellow traveller from the Elephant Nature Park, and we headed to the massive Sunday Night Walking Market in town to grab dinner (more Khao Soi!) and a drink, and also meander through the stalls. While I continued to be completely overwhelmed by my choice of handicrafts, I eventually picked out some beautiful Lanna textiles and a table runner to take home with me. It was a lovely way to end an action packed, incredible day.

Elephant Kisses

Day 160 – Chiang Mai

My final day in Chiang Mai was full of R&R, some chats with family and friends back, home, and preparing for the next legs of my trip in SE Asia. I had originally planned to spend this day to go to Doi Suthrep, a mountain to the West of Chiang Mai, where the famous Buddhist temple Wat Phra That Doi Suthrep was located. However, after spending a full day exploring temples a few days earlier, I opted instead to spend some much-needed time to recharge my batteries.  After having travelled for almost half a year, I had learned the hard way that these “crash” days were very necessary, and I had gradually become better at accepting that I didn’t need to “see everything” when travelling – a surprisingly freeing feeling!

Chiang Mai, Thailand - Part 1

Day 157 – Chiang Mai

Thai Market

I began my first full day in Northern Thailand in the most delicious way possible – with a full day at the Thai Farm Cooking School. Two of my dear friends from Vancouver - Norm and Dejan - had been to Chiang Mai about a month earlier, and had passed on this recommendation as a “must-do!” I was picked up from my hostel in the morning and joined a small group of other travellers, heading 20 minutes out of Chiang Mai and into the countryside. The cooking school was located in a beautiful organic farm, surrounded by fields of grazing water buffalo with mountains visible in the distance. On our way out of town, our instructor Ae took us to a local market for a brief tour, and helped us pick up the various Thai ingredients that we would be using in our cooking, including local vegetables and spices.

Thai Farm Cooking School

Thai Farm Cooking School

For the remainder of the day, we cooked and ate, and then cooked and ate some more! Our cooking stations were set up under a lofty bamboo building with open sides, surrounded by lush gardens and a fishpond. Throughout the day, Ae came around to each of us to offer her wealth of knowledge and tips to make the perfect Thai recipes! In total, I learned to cook 6 common dishes found in Northern Thailand, including Tom Yam Soup (hot and sour soup), Kaeng Kha Ri Gai (yellow curry), Poh Piah Tod (spring rolls), Som Tam (papaya salad), Gai Phad Met Mamuang Him Mapaan (stir-fried cashew nut chicken) and Khao Neow Ma Muang (mango and sticky rice). As part of the preparation for each recipe, Ae took us around the organic farm, to educate us on the herbs and vegetables needed in our dishes, and show us how to properly pick the fresh ingredients. It was fascinating to learn about how iconic Thai flavours were built up and created in each of these dishes. Our group ate each completed dish together, taking a break from cooking to chat and relax. In the late afternoon, we returned to Chiang Mai – completely full and very happy. Ae was incredibly kind to us, and made sure to send us on our way with a Thai cookbook so that we could try to recreate these dishes at home! It was a terrific kickoff to my time in Northern Thailand.

Thai Farm Cooking School

Day 158 – Chiang Mai

My second day in Chiang Mai had little agenda aside from meandering around the city to explore – and eating as much delicious Northern Thai food as possible! Surrounded by mountain ranges, Chiang Mai is the second-largest province in Thailand, and was the historic and cultural capital of the Lanna Kingdom from the 1200s to 1500s. In Thai, Lanna translates to “The Kingdom of A Million Rice Fields”, an apt description of the surrounding countryside! At the height of the Lanna Kingdom, Chiang Mai was also the centre of Buddhism in Thailand, which is reflected in over 300 temples, or “Wats” scattered throughout the city. The city also has strong Burmese influences, as the Lanna Kingdom was occupied by Burma for approximately 300 years, between the mid 1500s to 1800s. This is mostly seen in the incredible architecture found throughout the city.  The old city of Chiang Mai is a near perfect square, surrounded by a moat and ancient walls, which were actually designed to protect and defend against Burmese invaders. I could see that many of these walls and ramparts were still standing as I entered the historic centre of the city.

One of the Many Stupas around Chiang Mai

As I began to explore Chiang Mai, there was a noticeable spiritual feeling throughout the city. I immediately found that Northern Thailand had a much more relaxed feeling than the Thai Islands that I had just come from. Around every corner I would spot a new temple, easily identified by their ornamented, tiered roofs. Buddhist monks could be seen walking in the streets, dressed in their distinctive orange robes and sandals. Tropical flowers and greenery spilled over the walls lining the streets. Motorcycles parked on the walkways, their sidecars packed to the brim with young coconuts. If you were thirsty, you could buy a coconut, which the vendor would slice open for you with a machete, so you could drink the coconut water inside. Prayer flags and lanterns were strung across gated courtyards, gently fluttering in the humid breeze. While the gated city centre was fairly pedestrian friendly, I also had to keep an eye open for scooters, tuk-tuks, and Songthaews (Chiang Mai’s iconic, bright-red shared taxis) hurtling down the narrow streets and alleys!

As I explored Chiang Mai, I began to gain a better understanding of the multiple spiritual influences and religions that have been historically practiced in Northern Thailand. In addition to Buddhism, which is followed by the majority of the population, Animism - or spirit worship – was also evident throughout the streets of Chiang Mai. The most prevalent example is the ornate spirit homes found in front of houses and businesses. Raised on pillars, these colourful, dollhouse like homes are intended to provide a home for the guardian spirits of the land, so that the spirits do not come into the buildings and bother people. Daily offerings are made to the spirits, in the form of candles, flowers, incense, bowls of fruit. These spirit homes can be found around almost every corner, and are sometimes up on the roofs of buildings!

Spirit Homes in Chiang Mai

I spent much of my day exploring the incredible Lanna temples in the historic centre of Chiang Mai – in particular Wat Phantao, Wat Chedi Luang, and Wat Phra Singh. The ornate architecture, sculptures and fluttering prayer flags surrounding these historic temples were completely mesmerizing. Many of the facades were gilded and decorated with intricate mosaic tiles. Giant golden and white stupas (large mounds or spires) were scattered throughout the temple grounds. Historically used for burials or holding relics, stupas (also called ‘chedis’ in Chiang Mai) are constructed in all shapes and sizes, and are used as landmarks and objects of worship. The inside of the prayer halls were no less impressive. Countless golden Buddha sculptures (and one replica of the famous Emerald Buddha) could be found on alters at the front of the halls, where bare-footed worshippers would kneel and give their tributes to Buddha. Each temple was slightly different, with its own set-up and architecture. At the larger temples, it was common to see monks, both young and old, walking between the different buildings, some of which were used for monastic and Buddhism education.

Wat Chedi Luang

It was a truly incredible day, and hard to believe just how many Wats were scattered throughout the city. I wandered down larger streets and narrow alleys alike, following no planned route in order to get a sense of the historic city. Stopping occasionally along my way, I sampled various local cuisines – from drinking water from a young coconut that had been freshly cut open, to drinking Thai Iced Tea, a sweet, orange-coloured beverage made with condensed milk. I also made sure to try Khao Soi, a Lanna egg-noodle dish the region is famous for – made with tofu, coconut milk, shallots, pickled cabbage, chilli paste and lime. It was so good I made sure to have one bowl a day for the remainder of my time in Chiang Mai!

Khao Soi

In the late afternoon, I headed back to my hostel to rest for a few hours, tired and happy for some air conditioning to balance out the tropical heat of the day. After a quick power nap, cold shower and change of clothes, I headed back out into the city as the evening fell. Chiang Mai was just as lively at night, and walking along the narrow streets into the city centre, I was able to see into the homes and shops along the roadside – dimly-lit garages with people doing scooter repairs, Thai massage parlours, food stalls, tourist bars, and family homes alike. As I walked towards the main centre, various hawkers and shopkeepers called out to me – offering everything from a traditional Thai Sak Yant tattoo, to a roadside table for dinner! I had timed my visit to Chiang Mai to include a weekend, as I had heard great things about the city’s iconic Saturday and Sunday Night Walking Street Markets. I made my way over to Wualai street, opposite Chiang Mai Gate, and encountered the biggest street market I had ever seen, packed as far as the eye could see with stalls selling everything from food, handicrafts, artwork, Thai Silks and cottons, silverware, wood carvings, jewellery, antiques, embroidery, and woven baskets – to name a few! The amount of people and the sheer scale of the market was somewhat overwhelming. I spent the next few hours meandering between the stalls and admiring the original Lanna goods for sale. As I was planning to return to the (even bigger!) Sunday market the following night, I didn’t buy anything, but made note of the products I would look for the following evening. After my full day exploring the city, I opted to head back to my hostel fairly early, as I would be getting up early the following morning to head into the Thai Countryside.

Koh Phi Phi and Ao Nang, Thailand

Day 154 – Koh Phi Phi

After a final breakfast at Bloom – with (yet another!) Acai bowl, I headed down to Pattaya Beach to catch my ferry north to Koh Phi Phi. The beach was in chaos as passengers attempted to locate the right longtail boats to shuttle us to the highspeed ferries, moored just offshore. The ferries definitely ran on “island time”, and though my speedboat was scheduled to leave at 9am, it was closer to 9:40am by the time we set off. I was a bit anxious about the late start, as I already had a tight window of time to arrive in Koh Phi Phi and check into my overnight boat trip. In hindsight, I needn’t have been worried, as all of the other boats and ferries in Thailand also seemed to run behind!

After 4 bumpy hours on the water, and a chaotic transfer to a new ferry on the island of Koh Lanta, we finally arrived at Koh Phi Phi Don. I could immediately see why it was one of the most famous – and touristy! – islands in Thailand. As we approached Tonsai Pier through the turquoise blue waters, hundreds of colourful longtail boats dotted the shoreline.  

Koh Phi Phi Don

The main area of the island is packed to the brim with Thai massage parlours, shops, excursion companies, and restaurants and bars, selling everything from $300 baht Thai buckets, diving trips, longtail boat tours and unmistakable Thai elephant pants.  I was aware that the island had a reputation for being an overdeveloped, overpriced, party island – and my expectations were fairly accurate. Since this wasn’t really my scene, I had decided to only spend only a day on the archipelago, mostly to see the natural beauty of the nearby Koh Phi Phi Leh – where towering green limestone cliffs jut up from the crystal clear ocean, framing picturesque bays and white sandy beaches.

As I disembarked from the ferry, I manoeuvred my way through crowds of tourists and fishermen to find Maya Bay Tours, which runs an overnight boat trip to Koh Phi Phi Leh. I had booked this trip in order to avoid the crowds of day trippers to the area, as Maya Beach, made famous in Leonardo Dicaprio’s “The Beach” was one of the most popular tourist destinations in Thailand. Interestingly enough, shortly after my trip to Thailand, the government shut down Maya Beach for a few years in order for the ecosystem to recuperate.

Entrance to the Viking Cave on Koh Phi Phi Leh

The powerful tropical heat continued into the late afternoon as our group of about 20 boarded our small boat, setting off to Koh Phi Phi Leh, 1.5 km to the South of the main island. Phi Phi Leh is an uninhabited island, and looks like a green crown from a distance, rising up from the ocean. As we drew near, our boat passed alongside spectacular vertical cliffs, completely covered with dense foliage.

I quickly befriended the other passengers on the boat, including two girls from New York.  We first stopped at “Viking Cave”, a cavern at the base of one of the limestone cliffs where swifts make their nests. I was surprised to learn that harvesting of these birdnests was actually a profitable local business, as the nests are edible and believed to promote good health and skin, particularly in Chinese culture. It is a precarious job, as hunters build bamboo scaffolding into pitch-black caves, ascending into the dark to collect the nests. Shockingly, our guide told us that the market value of these nests was over $2000/kg! He suggested that we keep our eyes open for “birds nest soup” in local grocery stores elsewhere in Thailand, as the nests are most commonly eaten in soup form.

Continuing along the shoreline, our boat moored at Loh Sama Bay for swimming, snorkelling and kayaking. Jumping off the third deck of the boat into the ocean, we swam through the turquoise blue waters, diving below the surface to check out the tropical coral and fish. Drying off, I also took one of the kayaks out to the end of the bay, basking in the sun as I paddled next to the green cliffs.

Koh Phi Phi Leh

As the sun began to wane, we boarded our boat again, and circled the island to moor in the famous Maya Bay - just on time for the local day trippers and longtail boats to head back to the main island! The bay became quieter as the sun began to set, casting spectacular shadows over the tall green cliffs that framed the bay. We sat above deck to take in the impressive scenery, all while tucking into a Thai feast that had been prepared for us (complete with a complimentary Thai bucket, naturally!).

Sunset from our Overnight Boat

After dinner, our group went night-time swimming in the bay to see the bioluminescent plankton. As we swam along, the movement of the water made the plankton glow around us. In retrospect – I realize that this wasn’t the safest idea after a Thai bucket, but it was super cool! Drying off, we paddled small rowboats a short distance to a small private beach, surrounded by massive cliffs. This is where the party really kicked off – our hosts had lit several bonfires on the beach, and we spent the rest of the evening playing games, listening to music, having a beach barbeque and chatting with our fellow travellers – over a few more Thai buckets and Singha beers! It was such a fun night – and was capped off in the perfect way: sleeping on a cot above deck, underneath a spectacular canopy of stars.  

Day 155 – Koh Phi Phi and Ao Nang

Maya Beach

We woke up before dawn, and enjoyed a light breakfast before being boated over to Maya Beach, the iconic white sand beach at the far end of the bay. Given the popularity of this location, I was thrilled that we had the beach to ourselves before the day-trippers began to arrive. Anchored long-tail boats bobbed offshore as we waded through the crystal clear water, taking in the limestone cliffs, jungle and ocean framing the idyllic beach. I spent some time wandering the jungle trails behind the beach, admiring the dense, lush forest of the island. As Maya Bay began to buzz with day trips arriving, we returned to our boat, and set off back to the main island. As we approached Koh Phi Phi Don, we briefly stopped at Monkey Beach, a short beach with powder-white sand, a brilliant green coral reef just beneath the water. I was disappointed to see a few people on the beach feeding the Macaque monkeys, who clearly were used to being fed by tourists. Because of this expectation, our host told us that it is not unusual for the monkeys to get quite aggressive with visitors, where biting and scratching can be quite common.  

Maya Beach

Returning to Tonsai Pier on Koh Phi Phi Don, I bid farewell to our group, and the New York girls and I explored the laneways and beaches of the island for a few hours, before our various ferries to the mainland departed in the afternoon. We grabbed lunch and a beach beer at a patio just off Tonsai Beach, watching boats come and go from the harbour.

I caught my hour and a half ferry to Ao Nang in the late afternoon, arriving just as the sun was beginning to set. Ao Nang is a town of small resorts, rowdy beach bars, lady boy cabaret shows and tourist traps, and although the town itself wasn’t beautiful, it was a perfect base camp location for me to explore the spectacular limestone headlands around Krabi the following day. As my tuk-tuk from the ferry dropped me off at my hostel in town, I had a chance to catch the sunset offshore – with the biggest orange sun I have ever seen in my life. It was a truly spectacular, memorable sight. After grabbing a green curry dinner from a nearby food stall, I headed back to my hostel for the night, crashing immediately after my long day.

Sunset in Ao Nang

Day 156 – Ao Nang to Chiang Mai

Phran nang Beach

I headed down to Ao Nang beach in the early morning and picked up a ticket for a round-trip long-tail boat ride to Phra nang Beach, a 20 minutes trip south around several limestone headlands, and only accessible by water. I spent my morning swimming in the turquoise water, relaxing and reading on the beach, all while enjoying the stunning backdrop of cliffs covered in green foliage, golden sand beaches, and tall karst islands just offshore. Phra nang and nearby Railay Beach are popular locations for rock climbers, and every now and then I caught a glimpse of an adventurous climber doing a deep water free solo climb. Phra nang Beach also had an interesting, yet somewhat odd shrine at one end of the beach. Called the Tham Phra Nang Nok, or the “Princess Cave” this shrine is dedicated to the Goddess of fertility. Throughout the cave, large and small phallus statues had been erected (no pun intended!), where locals give offerings of flowers and incense.

After a lovely, relaxing morning, it was time for me to return to Ao Nang by long-tail boat, where I headed off to Krabi Airport, enroute North to my next stop – Chiang Mai! The two-hour flight brought me into the capital of the Northern Lanna province, just as the sun was setting. I quickly grabbed a 150 baht taxi to my hostel for the next 4 nights, located on the East side of the old city, which is surround by an ancient moat. I had the good fortune to overlap my time in Chiang Mai with two of my good friends from OT school – Doug and Andea, who were on their honeymoon! Since I had missed their wedding in Canada the previous month, I met them at a patio in the old city, and we shared a few celebratory beers before their flight out the following morning. It was so wonderful to see old friends from Canada after so many months on the road – we couldn’t believe our serendipitous timing! 

Queens Reunion in Chiang Mai!

Koh Lipe, Thailand

Day 150  - Penang to Koh Lipe, Thailand

I woke up early in the morning to make my way to the ferry terminal, embarking on a boat heading north to Langkawi, then onwards to Thailand. The guesthouse’s night manager was just getting off his shift as I checked out, and kindly gave me a ride to port on the back of his scooter. The cool morning air was hazy and smoky, with remnants of firecrackers strewn about the street from the Chinese New Years celebrations the night before. 

Crossing the Border by Ferry!

We headed north for about 3 hours along the straights of Malacca before our ferry pulled into port at Langkawi, a picturesque archipelago in the Andaman Sea, made up of over 100 different islands. Kuah Jetty on Langkawi was abuzz with travellers streaming in every direction, and it took me awhile to locate passport control to be cleared in advance to leave Malaysia by sea. This was only the second time I have ever crossed a border by water, and it was quite a different feeling! In a small office on the second floor of the ferry terminal, I had to surrender my passport for about an hour while I waited in a small holding area packed with other passengers. When it came time for our ferry ride, our passports were returned and we were led through the centre of the ferry terminal in single file, lest we be lost enroute to our boat! The ferry ride itself was also a bit strange – an enclosed space, with the windows painted over so we could not see outside for the final 2 hours to Koh Lipe. 

First Sight of Koh Lipe

Stepping into the afternoon sunshine upon on our arrival to Koh Lipe, the long day of travel was immediately worth it, as we had arrived to tropical paradise. Thailand’s southernmost island, Koh Lipe is very small and can easily be walked from one end to the other. It is also so tiny that it doesn’t have a pier! Our ferry anchored offshore as we awaited Thai long-tail boats to putt up alongside us, transporting passengers across the turquoise shallows to shore. 

Walking Street in Koh Lipe

After a chaotic wave of beachside customs (in bare feet!), my passport was stamped, and I was officially in Thailand! Hitching up my pack, I meandered along Pattaya Beach and through the walking street, quickly arriving at Bloom Café and Hostel, my home for the next 4 nights. After checking in and changing into a more heat-friendly outfit, I began to wander the laneways, looking for a bite to eat among the food stalls and cafes. Koh Lipe is very pedestrian friendly, with no cars, and only a few motorbikes used for deliveries and luggage. It was immediately a refreshing change of pace. I grabbed a large fresh fruit smoothie and wandered along Pattaya Beach, hundreds of brightly coloured long-tail boats bobbing just offshore. As the sun began to go down, I stopped for a bite to eat at one of the beachside cafes under a canopy of swaying palms, feeling completely relaxed. 

Pattaya Beach

Pattaya Beach

Day 151 – Koh Lipe

I woke early in the morning on my first full day in Koh Lipe, walking the short distance to Sunrise Beach to watch the day break. Shop owners and vendors were already up and about in the near-dark, swiftly organizing wares in their stands, from fresh tropical fruit and handicrafts, to Thai pants and freshly caught fish.  

Fish Vendors in Koh Lipe

As the hazy, pink sun rose over the Andaman Sea, the humidity and heat quickly intensified.  I walked along the length of the beach, watching hundreds of moored longtail boats cast long shadows across the rippled sand.  These traditional boats have become synonymous with travel to Thailand, and are much photographed due to their iconic wooden frame, brightly painted hulls, and decorations of garlands, ribbons and flowers on the prow.

Historically these boats were made entirely by hand, with the craft passed down from generation to generation. In Thailand, there is a widespread belief that spirits are found throughout all aspects of life, and this is no exception with the longtail boats. There is a belief that every tree has a guardian spirit, and when it was cut down to build the boat, the spirit continues to live in the body of the boat and protect it.  There is also a belief in a water spirits and a spiritual goddess of boats. Thus, all of the decorative ribbons, garlands and flowers on the boat prows are intended to pay honour and respect to these spirits, who in turn ensure safe voyage and prosperous fishing. As I meandered along the beach, there was something mesmerizing about watching these decorative sashes and garlands sway in the morning breeze. As the island began to wake up, the calm of the sunrise was replaced by the whir of longtail engines getting started. Most of these boats are powered by converted car engines, attached to a 2-meter “tail” with a propeller at the end. Standing at the stern of the boat, captains pull the motor from side to side, manoeuvring their boats over the shallow coral reef. 

I returned my guesthouse and tucked into a delicious smoothie acai bowl, before heading out to the beach for the day, with not a plan in the world aside from some reading and R&R, as I was planning to go diving for the following two days. I was incredibly grateful for such a perfect day in paradise.  

90% of my Koh Lipe Diet

Day 152-153 – Diving on Koh Lipe

I spent the following two days in Koh Lipe scuba diving with Adang Sea Divers. Thailand had been a place where I had wanted to go for diving for years – and it did not disappoint! Just beneath the turquoise waters offshore was an incredible rainbow of coral, home to over 25% of the world’s tropical fish! I was glad to have had such thorough training in Australia a few months earlier, as my experience diving in Thailand was much more informal, where they expected me to already know what I was doing! 

Attempt at an Underwater Selfie

The first day of diving, my guide Max took me on my first drift dive around the nearby island of Koh Yang. This was much more challenging for me than I expected, as I was unused to the currents and kept automatically kicking my flippers. The result was me using up my oxygen very quickly – to the point where I needed to use Max’s secondary respirator so I didn’t run out of air. Given that we were 16 m underwater, the situation in and of itself also made me breathe harder! I was very thankful for all of the emergency underwater drills I had recently done in my SSI course, as I was able to switch respirators underwater without a hitch. Our second dive at Pattaya Corner was much better, as I practiced breathing more slowly and regularly, maintaining my depth, and relaxing my body as the tidal currents moved us along the wall of coral. Max later told me that the tides were particularly strong as we were nearing the full moon! On this day, a few cool underwater creatures we saw were: blue dragon nudibranch, sea slugs, and cleaner shrimp. 

On my second day of diving, I went out with Becky, a Brit who had permanently relocated to Thailand. Since I had gotten my “sea legs” and comfort back the previous day, I enjoyed myself more on this day’s dive, and appreciated the sealife and incredible coral around me more. On our two dives at Steps and Koh Talu, we were lucky enough to see an incredible range of sealife: Cuddlefish, Seahorses (one of which was pregnant!), a Moray Eel, Dragonfish, Gorgonian Fan corals, Barrel Sponge corals, Bubble Coral, reef crabs, more nudibranches, Coral Cat Sharks, and Durban Dancing Shrimp. It was an absolutely incredible day, and I was in complete awe of tall the underwater life I had seen.  On our boat ride back to Koh Lipe, we saw some local fisherman, using an unusual technique to fish – while using a barrel of sand to weigh them down, they would dive off the edge of a boat, holding onto a long hose for oxygen as they fished, or gathered other seafood from the ocean floor. 

On my final evening, I picked up delicious Thai takeout at a local stall, and walked over to Sunset beach to catch the final rays of sun over the Andaman Sea. Heading back to my guesthouse, I crashed almost immediately – happily exhausted after the past 2 days of diving!

Penang, Malaysia

Day 147 – Kuala Lumpur to Penang

Early in the morning, I jumped on a modern commuter train heading south to Terminal Bersepadu Selatan, the main station for long-distance buses in Kuala Lumpur. Looking out the window of my air-conditioned car, I couldn’t help but notice a substantial amount of trash along the edges of the track as we moved south. Arriving at my transfer point to the bus station, I was also stunned by the number of people begging for money outside the terminal– well over 50. Both of these observations contrasted strongly to the polished, modern side of KL that I had seen in the previous days.  

The multi-storey bus terminal was chaotic, with passengers criss-crossing in every direction as I arrived. Designed to serve over 50,000 travellers a day, the station was fortunately well signed in both Malay and English. As I navigated through the throngs of people, I eventually located my check-in counter, picked up my ticket, and began hunting for my departure bay. I must have checked my ticket 50 times, as there were countless buses rolling in and out of the departure bays – and I was almost certain I would miss my bus in the hubbub of fellow travellers!

I finally boarded my bus around 9:45am, heading north to Penang, a small island in Northwestern Malaysia. I was looking forward to my stay in Georgetown, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its eclectic architecture, impressive street art, and delicious street food! A 5–hour journey by bus, our route traversed through small towns and green, tropical hills, making occasional stops for washroom breaks (there were none on the bus, much to my dismay) and snacks. The interior of the bus was full of wide, blue velvet chairs, which could fully recline. As I was reading along the route, three young Malay boys ran up and down the aisles, stopping briefly at my chair to check me out, before giggling and running away again. By the time we had arrived in Penang, they had gotten quite comfortable with me, and hung around my chair. I would say a few words in English, which they would delightedly repeat back to me, all while chattering between themselves in Malay.

As our bus arrived at Butterworth, the mainland town adjacent to the island of Penang, I grabbed by pack from under the bus and wove through the crowds, taxi drivers and hawkers to board a city bus to the Jetty. From there, I completed the last leg of my trip with a short ferry ride across the bay to Georgetown, my final destination. Brightly coloured long-tailed boats skimmed across the water next to us, bobbing up and down in the ferry’s wake. We passed a large, moored ocean liner, with barbed wire and life-sized human dummies, intended to ward off pirates.

Streets of Georgetown

As I disembarked in Georgetown, I could immediately see that the city was steeped in history, with influences from all over the world. Georgetown was the first British Settlement in South East Asia, and has continued to act as a trading port since the late 1700s. In the early 19th century, the island of Penang was at the epicenture of spice production and trade – with spice farms on the island producing nutmeg, clove and pepper. During World War 2, the Japanese Army also occupied the island of Penang for 4 years.

Today, the Georgetown represents an intermingling of ethnicity and religion, with Chinese, Peranakan, Malay, Indian, Eurasian, Siamese, and indigenous cultures being primarily represented. In the past, the city was also home to Persian, Filipino, Japanese, Sumatran, Arab, Burmese and Jewish communities – a true global city! Because of all of these influences, modern-day Georgetown is packed with unique, eclectic architecture and pre-war buildings. All four major languages of Malaysia are also spoken in Georgetown: Malay, English, Chinese and Tamil.

Walking through historic Georgetown, I arrived at my guesthouse for the next 3 nights. A converted three-storey heritage shophouse in old Georgetown, The Frame Guesthouse was previously the workshop of a colonial frame maker. The hostel has been upgraded to a modern, clean space, with big open communal areas shared with other travellers.  

I quickly met one of my roommates, Tonje, a traveller from Norway, and later met up again with Caroline and Jannes from Kuala Lumpur. As evening fell, we hailed a Grab, heading out to Lok Sok Si Temple, the largest Buddhist temple in all of Malaysia, and an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists living across Southeast Asia.  Located at the base of Air Itam mountain, this temple also features predominantly in Chinese New Years celebrations. Since we had the good fortune of visiting Penang around the time of this festival, Lok Sok Si temple was open late, lit with thousands of lights and colourful red lanterns.  Although we arrived just as the temple was closing, we were still able to take in the sea of light surround the temple, with the city lights of Georgetown twinkling in the distance.

Nasi Lemak

Heading back into town, we meandered through street food stalls along Chulia street, deciding what we wanted to eat for dinner. Woks sizzled in every direction, with sounds of chopping, stirring and pounding filling the air. The smell of unknown spices and savoury dishes followed us as we walked along. Overwhelmed by the choice, we opted to try numerous dishes, including Nasi Lemak, Char Kway Teow, Beef Rendang, Hokkien Mee, Oh Chien (fried oyster) and Rojak (spicy fruit salad). After only a few bites, it was immediately obvious to me why Georgetown had such a widespread reputation for gastronomy and street food. Needless to say, it was a very tasty way to end my first day in Penang.

Street Food Stalls in Penang

Day 148 – Penang

In the morning, I met up with Caroline and Tonje for breakfast at Mugshot, a nearby (thankfully air-conditioned!) café on Chulia street, and spent a few hours doing planning and bookings for the rest of my trip in Southeast Asia. Mid day, Tonje and I headed out to wander the streets of Georgetown. It was a hot, humid afternoon – as the island is located in a tropical rainforest climate.

Architecture of Penang

In addition to Georgetown’s stunning architecture, the city is also famous for it’s street art.  Dozens of wrought iron caricatures have been put up around Georgetown, depicting local culture, ethnic groups, city history and lifestyle. The street art scene has blossomed throughout the city over the past decade, and it was fun to keep our eyes peeled for street art in the most unexpected places – sometimes down side alleys, or above street level.  

We walked through the streets of Little India, checking out sari stores and Hindu Temples, the deities inside adorned with fresh floral garlands, called mala. Along the roadside, massive bunches of bananas hung from the ceilings of shophouses. Tonje and I stopped into Restoran Kapitan for a late lunch, tucking into delicious Indian dishes, including claypot chicken biryani, chapati and squid.

Durian Ice Cream

Continuing onward to Armenian Street, we walked along the narrow street, home to the famous “Children on a Bicycle” mural and other street art.  Colonial shophouses along the street were selling everything from fresh fruit to souvenirs and other trinkets. Chinese clan houses, local art galleries and small museums were also scattered along the street.  Tonje and decided to try durian, sometimes considered to be the “stinkiest fruit in the world”, which in Malaysia, Singapore and other parts of Asia is a well-loved delicacy. That said, we “cheated” a little in this regard, as instead of trying the fresh fruit, we opted instead to try durian ice-cream!

“Children on a Bicycle” Mural

Heading east towards the harbor, we stopped at the Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi (kongsi translates to “clan house”), built over 600 years ago by the 5 big Chinese clans of the Hokkien community in ancient Penang. A large, ornate building, this kongsi is a place where Chinese families with the same surname gather to pray to their ancestors. The lavish architecture of the Kongsi was truly stunning, embellished with intricately carved wood and stone, and beams painted in brilliant shades of red, gold, blue and green. The Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi is a complex series of structures, including a temple, and association building, a theatre, and nearby 19th century rowhouses for clan members. Historically, these “clan houses” were almost mini-cities unto themselves, with clan members running their own education, finance and social programs with a self-governing structure.

Streets of Penang

Tonje and I stopped for dinner at the Jetty food hall, tucking in for another terrific meal of char koey teow, poh piah (a large variation of a spring roll) and bowls of steaming laksa. As the evening began to fall, we headed down to the clan jetties on the ocean. There are 6 remaining jetties down by the water that were historically home to various Chinese clans.  Clusters of century-old homes have been built on stilts above the ocean, with each jetty named after a Chinese clan. Historically, these jetties were used for loading and unloading cargo ships, where there was sometimes a rivalry between different jetty clans for control of the seatrade and economic resources of Penang.

As we walked through the Chew Jetty, along a boardwalk of creeky planks, and wound between the historical stilted homes, it felt like a bit of a time warp. Many Chinese families still live here, and occasionally we could catch a glimpse into the entryways of homes, many with large shrines to worship their ancestors, the air hazy with swirling clouds of incense. While the jetties now have electricity and running water, many of these community members live in homes that have hardly changed in over 100 years. On the main floor of some of these stilted houses, clan members have turned these spaces into small restaurants and shops.

We reached the end of the jetty, and sat down, taking in the twinkling lights of Butterworth across the bay, listening as music from nearby buskers drifted through the air. Fishing boats and long-tailed boats zipped along the water, returning to town as evening began to fall.

Taoist Temple at Chew Jetty

As the sky darkened, thousands of red lanterns began to shimmer overhead as we headed back into town, passing several Taoist temples at the entrance to Chew Jetty, dedicated to the God of Heaven and the Taoist Sea Deity, Haisen. This day in Penang was near perfect – packed with incredible company, unique architecture, cultural experiences, street art, and (importantly!) fantastic food.

Day 149 – Penang

In the morning, Tonje and I threw on running shoes and workout clothes, grabbed breakfast at Mugshot, and jumped on a bus, taking us up into the lush, dense jungle surrounding Penang Hill. As we passed through a neighbourhood shopping street near the base of Air Itam, our bus inched through heavy pedestrian traffic, with locals bustling between stores and stalls, doing last-minute holiday shopping before the official Chinese New Year’s celebration the following day – February 16, 2018.  

We arrived at the base of Penang Hill, and bought our one-way ticket for the funicular, taking us up the slopes to the top of the hill.  It was an overcast day, with humidity heavy in the air, and as we ascended, we could see little more than a hazy view over the distant towns of Georgetown and Butterworth. Tonje and I wandered around the top of Penang Hill, where there were numerous lookout points and walkways through the area’s spectacular rainforest. A small mosque, a Hindu temple, and several residential homes and guesthouses are scattered nearby.

Funicular up Penang Hill

Hundreds of birds chattered overhead as we meandered around the hilltop, with dusky-leaf monkeys and macaques scampering through nearby trees. We had decided to hike down from Penang Hill to the Botanical Gardens, which took us deeper into the jungle as we descended on a steep jeep track. Leaving the tourism hub behind, we saw more and more flora and fauna as we went along – including countless monkeys, and the occasional snake slithering out of our way. It took us about an hour and a half to descend the 5 km zig-zagging track – a true knee-knacker! I was thrilled to finally arrived back on flat ground at the botanical gardens. With some difficulty, we figured out the bus route back into town, and arrived back in Georgetown in the late afternoon. I had a shower and a brief nap, before doing some more life-admin and Vietnam visa applications.

At dinner time, all of the street markets and food stalls were closed for Chinese New Years, so Tonje, Egle and I went out for tacos on Love Lane. True to its name, this lane was apparently once the location of many brothels, and was where Peranakan and Chinese businessmen would reportedly keep their mistresses.

Our Mexican dinner, though from a cuisine on the other side of the word, was still delicious – further solidifying my opinion that Penang can do no wrong when it comes to food! As we enjoyed Tiger beers and tacos, a steady procession of buskers, fire performers and street artists moved along the narrow laneway. Live music floated towards us from every direction. I clearly remember how present and alive I felt in that moment, feeling deeply linked to cosmopolitan group of people surrounding me – locals and travellers alike - even though they were strangers to me. In that moment, people from countless backgrounds, countries, ethnicities, and religions were gathered in the same place, all collectively enjoying good food and entertainment.

After almost 6 months of travel at that point, every day I felt more strongly that, as global citizens, we have far more in common than the differences that separate us.  

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Day 144 – Singapore to Kuala Lumpur

My final day in Singapore was packed with life-admin, complete with many visa arrangements, accommodation, ferry and flight bookings for the rest of my time in South East Asia. I bounced around the little shops in Chinatown, picking up everything from a replacement tripod and medications, to Tiger Balm for my still-recovering knee. I figured this was a good time to stock up on the essentials before I began hostel hopping through Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam over the following 7 weeks. After a final hawker centre meal, I packed up my bag and headed back to Changi Airport, boarding a 7:30pm Air Asia Flight to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

After a short, 1-hour flight North, I arrived in KL in the early evening, easily passing through customs and boarding the metro from KL Sentral to Pasar Seni. Arriving in Chinatown after dark, I headed to my nearby hostel, Mingle, which had come highly recommend to me from a fellow traveller I had met in Morocco. The air in Kuala Lumpur was thick with humidity, and I was immediately drenched with sweat after only a few minutes of walking. Even after dark, the pre-war architecture of Chinatown was fascinating. Multi storied shophouses were on every corner - some tastefully restored and painted, some weather-beaten and water stained. Large flickering billboards hung over the streets. It also felt like a neighbourhood that never sleeps! Restaurant and bar customers spilled out into the streets, sitting on bright plastic stools and eating at low tables set up on the sidewalks. My hostel for the next 3 nights, Mingle, was in a historic building, the white walls streaked with black stains, having weathered years of colonial rule and World War 2. Inside, the hostel itself had been tastefully refurbished, while also keeping many of the historic touches from the century-old original construction. I immediately crashed for the night on arrival, gearing up for a busy few days of travelling around the lively capital of Malaysia.

Mingle Hostel in Chinatown

Day 145 – Kuala Lumpur and Batu Caves

Enjoying breakfast on the rooftop terrace of my hostel, I met Jannes, a German traveller who had also recently arrived in KL. Since we were both planning on heading to the Batu Caves that day, we joined forces, hailing a Grab (Asia’s counterpart to Uber) and setting out to our destination, 30 minutes north of the city. It was fascinating to get a sense of the scale of Kuala Lumpur as we drove – the greater city area - called the Klang Valley - is home to over 7.5 million people, and is one of the fastest growing metropolitan areas in Southeast Asia, both in population and economic power. The Malaysian capital is also known for its multicultural population, made up primarily of Malay, Indian and Chinese residents – resulting in a fusion of cultures and religions, vibrant events and festivities, and incredible local cuisine.

Streets of Kuala Lumpur

The morning sun was already furiously beating down as we arrived at the Batu Caves, located in a large limestone hill. This 100-year-old Hindu temple is an important religious landmark, with three massive, naturally formed limestone caves which have been turned into shrines.  As we approached the entry gate and took in the massive limestone hill, I caught sight of the colossal, gold statue of the Hindu deity Murugan, towering 140 feet high in front of the staircase leading to the caves. Passing underneath the statue, we began to ascend the 272 steps towards the grottoes. Hundreds of curious macaque monkeys scampered around the limestone cliffs and darted along the stairs next to us. We kept our belongings close to us – as these monkeys are notorious pickpockets!

Macaque Monkeys

Arriving at the top of the stairs, we entered the gigantic, limestone cavern, with craggy rock formations hanging from the vaulted ceiling, and smaller crevices and caverns leading away from the main “Cathedral Cave”. We spent the next hour wandering through the enormous caves, scattered with numerous Hindu shrines, dedicated to different deities. Swirling plumes of incense followed us as we wandered along.  The towering limestone ceilings had a few large holes, letting in the sun and illuminating the caves in a mesmerizing way.  The caves were a truly impressive sight.  

Batu Caves

Jannes and I hailed another Grab for a ride back into the city, ready to tuck into to a delicious Malaysian lunch. We were directed to the nearby Old China Café – a cosy Peranakan café serving delicious Chinese Malay dishes such as Char Kuey Teow (flat noodle stir-fry), Lemak Nenas (pineapple prawn curry), Teh Tarik (a hot milk tea prepared with condensed milk), blue coconut rice, and Nasi Lemak (a dish cooked in a pandan leaf with coconut milk). My first venture into Malaysian cuisine certainly did not disappoint – with Malaysia ultimately ending up being my favourite country for food throughout all of my travels!

Returning to our hostel, we met up with other travellers Jannes had previously befriended– Bart from Brussels, Caroline from London, and Egle, a true citizen of the world, who had lived across Europe, Shanghai, and was in the process of moving to Byron Bay to study yoga. In the afternoon, Jannes, Bart and I set out to explore Chinatown. We first visited Sri Mahamariamman Temple, the oldest Hindu temple in Kuala Lumpur. A ornate, 5-tiered Gopuram tower rose above the entrance, sculpted with colourful depictions of numerous Hindu deities. Taking off our shoes, we wandered the edge of the main prayer hall, quietly taking in the relaxed atmosphere and colourful murals while trying not to disturb the worshippers.

We continued onwards to Petaling Street Market. Formerly the location of a tapioca mill, modern-day Petaling street is a flea market, chock-a-block with shops, food stalls, selling everything under the sun – fake branded items, Malaysian cuisine, fishmongers, souvenirs, and local goods. At night, the whole area transforms into a vibrant night market, with vendors selling countless discount items for only a few Ringgits. Heading a few blocks over, we walked through Central Market, also known as Pasar Seni, which is a handicrafts market, and the former location of a wet market. We spend some time poking around the different stores, with items such as batik prints, paintings and Chinese herbs, to palmistry booths and pearl vendors from Malaysian Borneo.

Sultan Abdul Samad Building

Leaving the markets behind, we walked along the banks of the Klang and Gombak rivers, taking in the spectacular architecture along our way – in particular the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, a 1800s heritage building which originally housed the offices of the British colonial administration prior to Malaysia’s independence in 1957. The long building hosts several impressive architectural features, from onion-shaped copper domes and dozens of pink and white bricked archways, to spiral staircases and a central clock-tower designed to echo London’s Big Ben.

At the confluence of the two rivers sits the Masjid Jamek of Kuala Lumpur, a century-old mosque. Built with red brick and marble, the striking designs of the mosque incorporates Moorish and north Indian Islamic architecture.

Masjid Jamek of Kuala Lumpur

As we continued along the river, we became gradually more fatigued from the overpowering heat, finally stopping for a cold Angkor beer on a covered patio. Relaxing in the shade, we recharged our batteries before heading back to our hostel, meeting up with Caroline. Our group headed out for dinner in Chinatown, sitting on tiny red stools along the sidewalk and sharing Malaysian dishes, including Hokkien Fried Noodles, Beef Char Kuey Teow, and even trying a Fried Frog and Ginger dish! For my second meal out – I continued to be blown away by how good Malaysian food was.

As night fell, we haggled with a taxi and caught a ride to Kuala Lumpur’s City Centre, (or “KLCC”), the modern epicentre of the city, complete with futuristic skyscrapers, office towers, upscale shopping centres, luxury hotels and dining. The most famous landmarks in the centre of KLCC are the Petronas Twin Towers, 88-storey buildings with a bridge joining the towers at the 41st and 42nd floors. At night, the towers are lit up, giving them a dazzling, spaceship-like aura.

Petronas Towers

We walked to KLCC park, a 50-acre garden with man-made lakes and fountains, located directly across from the twin towers. We were just on time to catch the final musical fountain show, where fountain displays are choreographed to music and lights, set against KLCC’s impressive skyline.

Capping off a busy day in Kuala Lumpur, our group of four headed back to Chinatown, where we set up camp at our hostel’s rooftop cocktail bar, swapping stories late into the night.

Day 146 – Kuala Lumpur

Given the overpowering heat from the day before, Caroline, Bart and I decided to go on the hunt for a rooftop pool for a day of R&R. We were lucky that Mingle had a sister hostel – Sky Society, and our host was able to get us passes to the rooftop pool on the 37th floor for free. Not quite knowing what to expect, we jumped in a Grab and headed out of Chinatown to the neighbourhood of Putra, packing a lunch, towels and drinks for the day. After going through many layers of security, (where we were certain we would be turned away!), we finally made it to the rooftop infinity pool. Considering we hadn’t paid for anything aside from our transit, I was stunned by the city view along the horizon. We had a perfect view of the Petronas Twin Towers, The Menara Tower, and the distant hills beyond the city limits. We jokingly told ourselves that we had found the backpackers’ answer to Marina Bay Sands! We spent the remainder of the afternoon soaking up the sun and plunging in the pool to cool off, all while admiring KL’s impressive skyline.

In the late afternoon, we boarded a train back to Chinatown, showering and changing before heading out for another streetside dinner of delicious Malaysian food. As the evening fell, we caught a Grab to Heli Lounge Bar, located next to the Menara Tower. Heli Lounge Bar is essentially a fully functional helicopter pad by day, which at night converts into the coolest rooftop bar I have ever seen. Unbelievably, there was nothing by retractable rope separating us from the edge of the helipad, and we had unobstructed, 360-degree views of the surrounding cityscape. We found lounge chairs on the edge of the helipad, and enjoyed several aviation-themed cocktails, watching the daylight fade over Kuala Lumpur. As night fell, a sea of twinkling lights stretched as far as my eye could see. It was truly a night I will never forget.

Singapore - Part 2

Day 141 – Singapore

Today, I began my exploration of the more modern side of Singapore. In the morning, I hopped on the MRT, heading to Marina Bay Station and the waterfront. Meandering along the waterfront promenade, I took in the towering skyscrapers across the harbour, with a statue of the Merlion - Singapore’s national symbol – stationed at the mouth of the Singapore River. The Merlion is depicted as a mythical creature, with the head of a lion, and the body of a fish.

The iconic Marina Bay Sands Hotel loomed over the harbour as I approached. So large that it is practically a city unto itself, Marina Bay Sands is part hotel, part convention centre, part casino, part museum, and part shops. With three 55-storey towers supporting a large, boat-like platform, it is impossible to miss. On the top of this platform, there is the world’s largest infinity pool.

Helix Bridge and Marina Bay Sands

Marina Bay Sands is located next to the Helix Bridge, a pedestrian bridge across the mouth of the harbour. The architecture of this bridge is stunning, designed to represent a double helix of DNA. It was  also a terrific place to have a complete view of the harbour, Marina Bay Sands, the downtown core, and the ArtScience Museum, designed like a white lotus flower.

Downtown Singapore and ArtScience Museum

I stopped for dim sum in one of the high-end food courts in the shops at Marina Bay Sands, before heading to the nearby Cloud Forest at the Gardens by the Bay. The Gardens comprise a massive nature park, designed to enhance greenery and natural beauty in the city of skyscrapers.

Cloud Forest

I first visited the Cloud Forest, a vast, climate-controlled glass dome, designed to replicate the wet, cool conditions found on misty, tropical mountains. In the middle of this massive greenhouse, a small “mountain” has been constructed, with a 30-metre waterfall cascading down the slopes. This man-made mountain is covered with vegetation and rare plants from the tropical highlands – from orchids and carnivorous pitcher plants, to vivid begonias and ferns. Floating walkways have been constructed around the mountain, allowing visitors to walk through the cool, misty clouds, and have an up-close look at the unique vegetation found in cloud forests. It was a stunning sight, and unlike anything I have ever seen before, I spent a few hours meandering my way in and around the mountain, the cool air a refreshing break from the humidity outside.

Cloud Forest

Cloud Forest

Cloud Forest

In the late afternoon, I left the Cloud Forest behind, and began to explore other parts of the Gardens by the Bay, including the Supertree Grove. These “Supertrees” consist of 18 tree-like structures that tower above the gardens, designed with both form and function in mind. Not only are they stunning architectural features, but these trees have also been designed to collect rainwater, harness solar energy, and provide air-intake and exhaust from the nearby conservatories – in many ways, acting just like real trees!

Supertree Grove 

I found a shaded park bench, and relaxed for a few hours with a book, waiting for the nightly “Garden Rhapsody”, a coordinated light and music show in the Supertree Grove, where the trees are lit up in a dazzling array of light. I befriended a photographer next to me, who gave me terrific tips on night photography, to best capture the trees at night. As the show concluded, I hopped on the MRT back to Chinatown, heading to hawker centre for (yet-another!)  delicious, $5 noodle dinner.

Day 142 – Singapore

It was hot, sunny day as I boarded the MRT, heading west to Harbourfront station and Mount Faber.  I hiked up the Southern Ridges walking trail for a short distance, before arriving at the top of Mount Faber, the second highest hill in Singapore. From my vantage on the lush, green hilltop, I had a terrific view over the downtown area, the massive port of Singapore, and Sentosa Island, my destination for the rest of the day.

Tanjong Beach Club

From the top of Mount Faber, a cable car had been built to the south, connecting the mainland to Sentosa Island. As I boarded the gondola, we passed directly over a narrow channel of water, with many ships passing underneath us. Sentosa Island is at the Southernmost tip of Continental Asia, and was formerly used as British military base, as well as a Japanese POW camp. In its more recent history, Sentosa has been recreated as a tourist destination, where the island has something for everyone: a resort, a wax museum, two golf courses, 14 hotels, a Universal Studios theme park, and two casinos.

Tanjong Beach on Sentosa Island

Arriving on the island, I quickly left the busier tourist hub behind, and boarded a tram heading east towards Tanjong Beach. A bit more out of the way, Tanjong Beach was exactly what I was looking for – on weekdays, it is the perfect, peaceful retreat from Singapore’s concrete jungle. I set up camp at Tanjong Beach Club for the day, sipping a Singapore Sling (or two!), reading, swimming in the pool, and wading along the sandy shores. Tall, thin palms swayed along the edge of the ocean, silhouetted in the powerful sun. Offshore, hundreds of cargo ships were moored in every direction. I relaxed here for the remainder of the day, heading back to the city as the sun began to fade.

Day 143 – Singapore

Another “life admin” day! Today, I headed to my appointment at the International Medical Clinic in Orchard to get my remaining vaccines for Southeast Asia – Rabies and Japanese Encephalitis. Interestingly, the vaccines available in Singapore were slightly different than my first round in New Zealand – mildly irritating, as I had no choice but to get a costly, second dose of the Japanese Encephalitis vaccine to ensure I was properly immunized. I had never before realized that vaccines may slightly differ to country to country, which was an interesting observation to me from a public health point of view. The costs of vaccines in Singapore were also easily 3 times the cost of those in Canada, which gave me another snapshot of the high cost of living in this wealthy country.

In the afternoon, I hopped on a bus back into the city centre, happy for an excuse to sit down and take in the sights of the city through a window. Hopping off the bus near Chinatown, I wandered through Ann Siang Hill in the late afternoon, heading to Telok Ayer Market for an early dinner. A historic hawker centre located in the downtown core of Singapore, Telok Ayer market was built in 1824, and still retains much of the original Victorian architecture, complete with green, cast-iron columns to hold the roof in place. After yet another delicious, food-stall meal, I wandered through downtown Singapore as the evening began to fall.

Walking around at night, I felt very safe. It was clear to me that Singapore lived up to its strong reputation for low-crime and cleanliness. It was sometimes easy to forget that Singapore also has a reputation for being the “Fine City” a double meaning - as there are many significant fines in place for breaking the rules – from gum chewing and littering, to jay-walking and spitting.

Arriving at Clarke Quay I met up with two Canadian friends. Expats living in Singapore, Claire and Nico were a sight for sore eyes! Celebrating the end of their workweek, we headed to the Diageo bar for drinks, high in Nico’s office tower.  As an employee of Diageo, one of the world’s biggest producers of spirits and beers, Nico was able to bring friends to the office’s private, state-of-the-art bar on Fridays. It was great to catch up with both of them over the cocktail creations of the Diageo bartender!

Singapore - Part 1

Day 138 – Auckland to Singapore

Leaving New Zealand behind, I took off from Auckland’s airport in the early afternoon, heading northwest towards Asia. My flight took me over the Tasman Sea, across the orange sand plains of the Australian outback, and across the Java Sea, sprinkled with thousands of Indonesian islands.

As our airplane drew near to Changi airport, I had a spectacular, birds-eye view of hundreds upon hundreds of ships anchored along the Singapore Strait. It was an amazing sight, and I was able to immediately get a snapshot of Singapore’s economic and trading power in the region. Incredibly, at any given time, there are about 1,000 vessels in Singapore’s port, with a ship arriving or departing almost every 2-3 minutes!

Arriving at the contemporary airport, I breezed through customs and onto Singapore’s equally modern transit system, heading west into the city. I arrived in the heart of Chinatown at dusk, emerging onto Pagoda Street, a historic merchant’s district packed with souvenir shops, Chinese restaurants, traditional art and electronics. This vibrant area was packed with people, with food stalls, kiosks and musicians spilling out onto the street in celebration of Chinese New Years. The architecture of the neighbourhood was fascinating, with rows upon rows of technicolour shophouses. Originally built in the early 1800s, these buildings have been restored and repainted in every colour of the rainbow, with large, shuttered windows opening onto the humming streets below.  

Chinatown in Singapore

In every direction I looked I saw red, the official colour of Chinese New Years, and a symbol of luck and good fortune. I wove through the crowds and under hundreds of swinging lanterns, finally locating my hostel for the evening. I hadn’t realized it at the time of booking, but my hostel was actually on the second storey of one of these historic shophouses, with my room looking directly out over Pagoda Street. While this made for some very cool pictures, and a birds-eye view of the festivities below, it also ended up being very loud! Over the rest of the week, earplugs and a loud fan became my best friends – allowing me to get some much-needed shut-eye while the New Years’ revelry carried on late into the night. Despite this small inconvenience, it was very cool to be in Singapore during this time, and get an inside look at the country’s celebrations!

After checking in, I returned to the bustling streets to explore. Although I was tired for my long flight, my senses were jolted awake from the sights, smells and sounds of Chinatown – steaming baskets of dim sum and street food, red envelopes for “lucky money”, a traditional gift for children during New Years, the pungent smell of durian fruit, and a canopy of lanterns criss-crossing the night sky overhead.

I capped off my evening with chicken rice and dim sum at Maxwell Food Centre, one of the many hawker markets that Singapore is famous for. Scattered around the city, these local food halls are home to some Michelin-starred food stalls – with all eats usually under $10! It was a delicious way to start off my travel in Southeast Asia.

Day 139 – Singapore

My first full day started with life admin – getting set up with a new SIM card, a replacement tote bag and new set of reading glasses, after I accidentally stepped on mine when camping in New Zealand! I had to be in Singapore for almost a week because of the timing for my second set of vaccinations – Rabies and Japanese Encephalitis - specific to my next two months in Southeast Asia. Although I wasn’t originally planning to be in Singapore for this long, it was a nice change of pace, as I didn’t feel rushed to see everything at once.

Chinatown

I wandered around Chinatown and downtown Singapore during that daytime, and began to get an even clearer picture of Singapore’s rich cultural diversity, from the countless options for ethnic cuisine, to numerous places of worship for Hindu, Buddhist, Muslim and Christian faiths – often all within a few blocks. It is clear that Singapore’s culture is an incredible fusion of culture, ethnicity, faith, and language. The blend of Malaysian, Indian, Chinese, Arab and English cultures is on full display at every turn throughout this vibrant “Lion City”.  

Kumquat Plants on Pagoda Street

Walking through the heart of Chinatown, I first explored Sri Mariamman Temple, the oldest Hindu Shrine in Singapore. It was originally built in 1827 by an Indian trader from Penang, Malaysia, and the Dravidian architecture of the temple was simply stunning. This particular style of temple originated from South India and Sri Lanka, with the architecture consisting of pyramid shaped towers throughout the temple. The Sri Mariamman Temple stands out with its large gopurum (monumental entrance tower). The massive gopurum had numerous tiers, consisting of brightly coloured sculptures of Hindu deities.

Covering my shoulders and taking my shoes off, I walked through the heavy wooden gates to enter the temple. I wandered into a courtyard with the main prayer hall located in the centre, where there were large sculptures of deities such as Rama, Muraga and Krishna. Flower garlands, called “mala” had been placed around the necks of these deities by devotees.

Heading over a few blocks, I walked around the perimeter of Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, a 5-story, modern Buddhist Temple. Built in 2007, the temple gets its name from what is thought to be the tooth of Buddha (recovered from his funeral pyre in India), which is displayed in the temple. Thousands of red lanterns encircled the base of the temple, swinging in the breeze.

Clarke Quay

I continued onwards to Clarke Quay, located on the banks of the Singapore River. Once the heart of the city and a centre for marine trade and commerce, this neighbourhood is packed with both colonial-era architecture and colourful modern buildings. Visitors to Clarke Quay can still ride the historic “bumboats” that were used to unload wares from around the world. I wandered along the walkways lining the river, taking in the sights of this diverse neighbourhood.

MICA Building in Clarke Quay

In the late afternoon, I boarded the MTR to head up to Emerald Hill. Located near the famous shopping district of Orchard Road, Emerald Hill is a peaceful conservation area, filled with cobblestoned streets and beautifully preserved Peranakan shop houses, complete with grand entrance gates, sculpted, colourful wall decorations, and wooden window shutters. Beautifully tended gardens with lush, tropical vegetation surrounded the buildings, adding to the beauty of this neighbourhood. In front of some of the homes, there were touches of red decorations, in celebration of the New Year. Kumquat plants were outside the front doors, decorated with red ribbons for luck, their yellow-orange fruit symbolizing prosperity.

Emerald Hill

A few of the shophouses on Emerald Hill had been converted into trendy patios and cafes, where I stopped at one for a glass of wine, taking in the peaceful ambience of the neighbourhood. As evening fell, I returned to the hubbub of Chinatown, sampling street food on Smith Street and popping in and out of bustling stalls and shops, before making my way home for the evening.

Day 140 – Singapore

It was a hot, humid morning as I boarded the MRT, heading to Eunos Station in Eastern Singapore. My destination was the Joo Chiat, located on the Eastern side of the island, a neighbourhood considered to be one of the early heritage towns in the country. It is also known for being a Peranakan community, an ethnic group descended from marriages between Chinese and Indian men and local Malay or Indonesian women from the Malaysian Archipelago (with Singapore at its base).

Joo Chiat

In Joo Chiat, the neighbourhood is full of colourful homes decorated with ceramic tiles and sculpted facades. These heritage homes are juxtaposed with trendy bars and modern shops, sprinkled throughout the neighbourhood. I walked along Koon Seng Road to visit the famous stretch of Peranakan shophouses. Built in the 1920s, these 3-storey homes are painted in various pastel shades, with intricate floral patterns decorating the exteriors.

House of Tan Teng Niah

Because I love a good walk when travelling, I decided to head back towards the city centre on foot, which was a great way for me to get a sense of everyday life in the Singapore.  I stopped in Little India in the early afternoon to visit the house of Tan Teng Niah. Constructed in the early 1900s by a local businessman, this villa is an example of a home of many of Singapore’s ethnic-Chinese business around the turn of the century. When it was restored about 30 years ago, it was painted in a rainbow of vivid colours – with every section of the house in a slightly different hue.  It was quite a striking sight!

I continued onwards to Kampong Gelam, a neighbourhood which has been home to the Malay, Arab and Burgis communities of Singapore since the 1800s. Today, the area is one of Singapore’s creative hubs, packed with street art, independent boutiques, and trendy pubs and bars. In addition to being a popular hipster hangout, Kampong Glam also is host to many colourful heritage and worship sites. Arab Street, part of Singapore’s Muslim Quarter, is packed with stores selling wares such as Persian Rugs, intricate textiles and Arab teas. It is an area that has fusion of culture, religion and people, and definitely has something for everyone.

Nearby, the spectacular Masjid Sultan Mosque is framed by swaying palm trees. Considered to be the “national mosque” of the city-state, it has a history of over 200 years, with several versions of a mosque having been built on the grounds. The current Masjid Sultan Mosque was built in the 1930s, and has an iconic gold dome, flanked by a tall minaret with a gold roof.

Masjid Sultan

I stopped for dinner and a Tiger beer at the patio of a jazz café, tucked along an alley with extravagant and street art, people watching and taking in the sights and sounds of Kampong Gelam. Tired from the humidity and my long day of walking, I hopped on the MRT and headed back to my hostel in Chinatown.  

Coromandel Peninsula and Auckland, New Zealand

Day 134 – Hot Water Beach and Coromandel Peninsula

Hot Water Beach

In the morning, I drove half an hour south to Hot Water beach, as the best time to visit is for two hours on either side of low tide. This beach is famous for its heated mineral waters, which bubble from deep within the earth into the sandy beach. Because of these hot springs, you can dig your own natural spa pool in the sand. I rented a small shovel and bucket from a local café, grabbed an iced coffee, and headed out to go digging! It took me a few attempts to dig a hole where the water was hot enough, but I was persistent, and soon enough was enjoying my own personal “hot tub”, with iced coffee in hand. A few dozen other visitors had also come to visit Hot Water Beach around the same time, and I chatted with a few people soaking in their nearby sand pools – a bit of a comical experience!

Hahei Beach

Hike to Cathedral Cove

As the tide began to come in, I left the beach and headed into the little town, grabbing lunch at a café and wandering through the local art galleries. In the afternoon I continued onwards to Hahei Beach, another beachside town and the jumping off point to visit Cathedral Cove, one of the most iconic landmarks of the Coromandel.

Hahei Beach

Cathedral Cove

I stopped for an afternoon beer at the Coromandel Brewing company before heading out on my 2.5 hour round trip hike to Cathedral Cove, which meandered along seaside cliffs and through lush forest. Cathedral Cove is only accessible my foot, and consists of a two secluded white beaches tucked between dramatic cliffs, with a gigantic, cathedral-like archway that you can walk through between coves. The beach is shaded by knarled pohutukawa trees, and was a perfect place for me to end my day, with a picnic dinner and craft beer from the brewery.

Cathedral Cove

Day 135 – Coromandel Peninsula to Auckland

It was a rainy morning as I headed out from Whitianga to Auckland, where I would be staying for the following three nights. My friend Leanne from Vancouver and her boyfriend Simon lived in the suburb of Remuera, and had kindly offered to let me stay in their spare room for the remainder of my time in New Zealand. I arrived mid afternoon, and Leanne and I spent the rest the day getting caught up, chatting with some mutual friends back in Vancouver, and enjoying pizza and wine with Simon. It was a terrific change of pace to be among friends again, and we had a great time.

Catching up with Vancouver Friends in Auckland!

Day 136-137 – Auckland

My final days in New Zealand were fairly low-key, as I was well overdue for some life admin, including laundry, getting vaccinations for Southeast Asia, returning my campervan, and running various errands. Most importantly – I was ready for a few rest days before my next adventure, Southeast Asia!

Saying goodbye to my wheels for the past month!

It was amazing to think of all of the amazing experiences I had had in New Zealand over the previous weeks, and even when going through pictures, my mind was still blown by the natural beauty and wonderful people I had encountered in this country. To this day, it is still one of my favourite countries that I have ever visited, and I knew I would be back!

Kia Koa, New Zealand.

Hobbiton and The Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand

Day 133 – Matamata and the Coromandel Peninsula

Hobbiton and the “Party Tree”

In the morning I headed to Matamata, an area of lush farmland a few hours south of Auckland. I was very excited for this day, as I had booked a tour of Hobbiton, the movie set used for The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit. As I drew near to Hobbiton, I felt as though I had arrived in the heart of the Shire, with green rolling farmland as far as the eye could see. 

In 1998, Peter Jackson had been scouting locations for the Shire by doing an aerial seach of the area, and encountered the Alexander farm, a 1250-acre sheep farm in Matamata. The farm had one particular feature that sealed the deal – a massive pine tree towering over a nearby lake, that would stand in for the famous “Party Tree” in the books. The construction of Hobbiton took 9 months, all in secret! After the filming had wrapped in 1999, Hobbiton was mostly demolished, with a few round doors remaining in the hills.  

In 2009, Peter Jackson returned to film the Hobbit trilogy, and the movie set was revitalized and expanded upon. This time, the Alexander Family came to an arrangement with the production company to leave Hobbiton in place after filming had wrapped, which is the set I viewed this day. 

Hobbiton

As Hobbiton is still in the middle of an operational sheep farm, I had to park my camper on the outskirts, hopping into a small van that drove visitors across the rolling hills into the small valley where the movie set was located.  I joined a small group with a guide who took us through the set, which has 44 reconstructed Hobbit holes, each designed with great detail and care. The gardens surrounding the holes were immaculate, blooming with countless flowers and leafy vegetables. 

Bag End

The tour continued along the meandering paths of Hobbiton, all the way to Bag End (Bilbo’s house), which was located at the top of the hill. Needless to say, the LOTR geek in me was pretty thrilled! We continued across the pond to a mill, where a mini town-centre had also been created, complete with a “Green Dragon Inn”, where I indulged my inner hobbit with a complimentary “flagon of mead”! It was truly incredible being on this set, and I definitely felt a bit of movie magic from walking around the grounds. 

The Mill

Returning to my camper, I headed north, driving towards the Coromandel Peninsula, where I would be spending the next two nights. The peninsula is well known for its beaches, rugged rock formations along the coast, and laid-back vibe, and is a popular holiday destination in New Zealand, particularly for those living in Auckland. 

Whitianga

I arrived in the town of Whitianga in the late afternoon, passing several picturesque seaside towns along my route. One-hundred years ago, Whitianga was originally a timber port, when native forests in the area were being harvested and shipped to Europe. Today, Whitianga is a tourism, farming and fishing hub, and was a perfect jumping off point to explore the Coromandel Peninsula. I checked in at my campsite, and strolled along the main street of town, popping into craft and surf shops. After a quick jump in the ocean to cool off,  I picked up a few new summer dresses, knowing that I would also need these in Asia the following week.  I ended my day at a seafood shack along the main beach, watching the sailing and fishing boats coming and going, and reading a book. It was a terrific way to end a busy day.