Tsoureki is a sweet yeast bread that Greeks make every year on Holy Thursday to be eaten on Easter Sunday.
What is tsoureki?
Tsoureki is a traditional Easter bread from Greece. It’s prepared in a very similar way to brioche, but the main difference between them both lies in its flavors: tsoureki is prepared using mastic gum, mahlepi (also called mahlab), cardamom and orange zest.
On Holy Thursday, early in the morning throughout Greece, women start kneading the tsoureki dough. Some decorate the loaves with nuts and sugar. The braided bread is reminiscent of Jesus’ crown of thorns, and the sprinkled sesame seeds of the actual thorns.
What is the origin of tsoureki?
According to tradition, it is believed that this bread was used as a symbol to represent the Resurrection of Christ – and re-birth in general, since dough starts with one shape, then rises and ends having a different one, transforming many times through its “life”.
Tsoureki became popular in Greece during the Turkish occupation, turning that way into a Greek specialty made in their own way: with milk, butter and eggs. The dough is brushed with egg wash before baking, and sometimes almond extract, sultanas, cinnamon or fennel seeds are also added.
Its shape also relates to pagan times, since it was believed back then that breads with knots and braids were meant to chase away evil spirits.
It is topped with a red-dyed egg (usually placed over the braid), which symbolizes the blood of Jesus. The three-strand braid is actually a symbol of the Holy Trinity.
The word tsoureki comes from the Turkish word çörek, which refers to any bread made with leavened dough. Even though it’s believed that this term comes from the Old Turkish root word çevir (which translates “to turn”), it could also have originated from Persian or Armenian.
There are many kinds of çörek, both savory and sweet, which appear in various shapes and sizes depending on the region. Some examples of this could be kofinia, kalathakia, doksaria, avgoulas, koutsouna, or kouzounakia. However, the most common shape for this recipe is the braid.
The ancient Armenian name of this bread, bsatir, alludes to Christ’s crown of thorns. In that region it is commonly called “Armenian Easter bread”.
This pastry is not only made in Greece: it is also very common in other countries with Greek communities established. Tsoureki is also often given as an Easter gift by children to their godparents.
Religion and tsoureki
This popular Greek bread has a long list of religion related connotations: in ancient times, tsoureki wasn’t eaten until the end of the Saturday since, according to Catholic religion, dairy-based products were in fact prohibited in the days prior to Easter Sunday.
When the dough has fully leavened and is ready to go into the oven, some people imprint it with the stamp of the local church.
Mahlepi and mastic gum
Mahlepi (also called mahlab) is one of the most important parts of tsoureki. This very aromatic spice is produced from a specific type of cherry seed: the pits of the fruit are cracked open in order to extract the seed that’s inside.
Mahlepi is commonly used to flavor sweets in various cuisines from Greece and Middle East.
On the other hand, another important ingredient is mastic gum (also called mastiha). Mastiha is a resin that comes from the sap of the mastic trees. This particular type of tree is specifically found on the island of Chios, in Greece.
Since it’s a little more difficult to reach, mastic gum can be purchased online from every part of the world. However, it’s important to be careful while using it: too much of it can make bread taste bitter.
Red hard-boiled eggs
Following the tradition, the eggs are dyed the Thursday before Good Friday in representation of the blood of Jesus on the cross.
Once dyed red, the eggs are hard-boiled and then are placed into the dough in order to set the bread ready to be baked.
In Greece, a minimum of 12 eggs are boiled and dyed to use in this recipe. The local tradition for churchgoers is that, after returning home from midnight mass on Easter Sunday, every family member receives an egg.
Tips to make a perfect tsoureki
The first step to achieve a perfect tsoureki is to correctly beat the dough in the mixer. A good mix allows thin and elastic threads to be formed inside of the dough, which will give it more elasticity when still raw, and a chewy texture after baking it.
The spices need to be grinded before starting with the bread-making process: mastic gum, mahlepi, cardamom pods and salt should be placed in the spice grinder and processed until everything takes the form of a powder.
To be stored in the freezer, tsoureki has to be completely cold and then wrapped in aluminium foil. It can be frozen for up to 3 months. It can then be defrosted at room temperature and then baked (inside of the aluminum wrap) at 350°F (180°C) for about 20-30 minutes.
Tsoureki vs challah
This Greek bread is very similar to the challah bread of Jewish origin (apart from the French brioche, of course). In all of these breads, which are all heavy and rich, great quantities of butter, flour and eggs are used.
Challah is a very special recipe for Jewish gastronomy, which usually takes a braid form and is eaten in special ceremonies such as Shabbat, Passover and other Jewish holidays. During rituals, a small portion of the dough of the challah is always set aside in order to serve as an offering.
The main difference between the two of them lies in the spices used, specially the traditional mahlepi from Greek cuisine. Mahlepi, when raw, does not have any flavor, but once cooked it adds sweet taste and aroma. Apart from mastic gum, in some regions of Greece sesame seeds are also used.
Although tsoureki is very characteristic during Christmas time, the truth is that it is also very popular during the whole year. It can be served as part of breakfast, coffee break or even a midday or afternoon snack.
There are some other bread-recipes around the world that share similarities with tsoureki (other than challah and brioche).
In Finland, for example, there is a pastry (also shaped like a braid) that tends to be flavored with cardamom which receives the name of pulla or nisu. It is commonly served during breakfast or with afternoon coffee.
Tsoureki
Ingredients
- 8 cups bread flour , sifted
- 10 tablespoons butter , at room temperature
- ½ cup milk (lukewarm at 97 F / 36°C)
- 1¼ cup caster sugar
- 4 large eggs , at room temperature
- 2 tablespoons active dry yeast
- ½ cup water (lukewarm at 97 F / 36°C)
- Zest of an orange
- 1 teaspoon ground mastic
- 1 tablespoon ground mahleb (mahlepi)
- ½ teaspoon ground green cardamom
- ¼ teaspoon anise seeds
- 1 tablespoon salt
- 1 egg + 1 tablespoon water (for brushing)
- Slivered almonds (for garnish)
For the paschal decor
- 10 hard boiled eggs (cold), painted red
Equipment
- Stand mixer
Instructions
- In a large bowl, pour lukewarm water, 1 teaspoon of caster sugar and the yeast. Mix.
- Cover the bowl with a cloth and let rise for 10 minutes in a cool place, away from drafts, until the yeast increases in volume and starts foaming.
- While the yeast is rising, using a pestle, crush the mastic and mahleb.
- Use a pestle or a blender to crush the mastic, cardamom, anise and mahleb, with 1 tablespoon of caster sugar for 2 minutes, and set aside.
- In a non-stick saucepan, add the butter, remaining caster sugar, and milk.
- Place the pot on a very low heat and stir the mixture until the butter is melted and the sugar has dissolved.
- It is very important to melt the butter over very low heat, so that the temperature does not kill the yeast and the mixture is around 97 F (36°C). If the mixture is hotter, let cool for a few minutes and check the temperature again.
- Pour the butter mixture into a bowl, add the eggs and whisk. Add the yeast mixture to the butter and egg mixture, and whisk gently. Set aside.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the flour, and mixture of mastic, mahleb, spices and orange zest, and mix.
- Dig a well in the center of the flour and pour in the mixture of butter, eggs and yeast.
- Using the dough hook, mix on low speed initially, until the ingredients are combined.
- Knead for 2 minutes at medium speed then add the salt.
- Then knead for 10 minutes on medium to high speed. At this point, the dough should be quite soft and slightly sticky.
- Cover the dough with a cloth, place it in a warm place away from drafts, and let it rise for 2 hours.
- Place the dough on a very lightly floured work surface and divide it into 5 equal dough pieces.
- Take a piece of dough, divide it into 3 or 4 strands. Roll each strand, form a braided crown or a long braid and place it on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
- Place 2 eggs (or more) painted in red in the center of the crown (in the hole) or 1 at each end of the long braid.
- Repeat the same procedure with the remaining dough pieces.
- Place them, well spaced on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and cover with a cloth.
- Let them rise again in a warm place away from drafts, for 45 minutes.
- Preheat the convection oven to 320 F (160°C), or traditional oven to 330 F (170˚C).
- In a bowl, combine the egg with 1 tablespoon of water and whisk with a fork.
- Brush the top of each brioche with this mixture, taking care not to press so as not to deflate it.
- Sprinkle with slivered almonds.
- Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the brioches are golden brown.
- Well wrapped in a cloth or plastic wrap, the tsouréki can be stored for up to 5 days at room temperature.
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Nita is the foodie blogger behind Tastesspicy. Originally from the small Island of Trinidad and Tobago in the Caribbean, she now lives in the cold Tundra of Minnesota, USA where she enjoys sharing recipes from around the world, particularly from the Caribbean featuring foods with a spicy, but flavorful flair.
Georgina Simonelli says
As someone who is half Greek (and part Italian) I remember my mother buying Tsoureki from the Greek store in Bayswater, West London, after Greek church on good Friday.
I still go there as a, pilgrimage every Easter from my home in the suburbs of London. The taste brings back good memories and reminds why I proud I have Greek blood.
Mike Benayoun says
Thanks for sharing your story with us, Georgina! Fond memories indeed 😉
Terry says
This sweet yeast bread is so good!