A guide to Villefranche-sur-Mer, France

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A postcard-perfect hamlet, the vibrant town of Villefranche-sur-Mer is one of the best destinations on the French Riviera. Azure waters in a sheltered cove are flanked by one of France’s most colourful towns while bougainvillea climbs door frames and balconies.

A kaleidoscope of yellow, peach, and pink facades line the paved lanes of Villefranche-sur-Mer as window shutters and doors painted mint green and blue contrast against them. Reminiscent of the hillside villages in Italy’s Liguria region, there’s also plenty that feels distinctly French; the glamour, the exclusivity, and of course the rosé.

Serving as a popular day trip from Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer is also a superb stay for those in search of a quieter alternative for a stay on the Cote d’Azur. In summer, the town operates to the hum of beachgoers against a backdrop of swanky super yachts moored in the idyllic cove - the perfect place to meander the medieval streets before an afternoon lazing in the sun

One of my favourite spots on the French Riviera, this is my guide to the best things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer, as well as everything else you need to know to make the most of your time here.

Is Villefranche-sur-Mer worth visiting?

Just seven minutes by train from Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer is worth visiting for its idyllic lanes, waterfront restaurants, and crystal clear sea. Easily visited as a day trip or a quiet overnight stay, it’s a must-see while exploring the best towns on the Cote d’Azur.

Things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Despite its size, Villefranche-sur-Mer has enough things to do to keep you busy for a whole day. A slower pace is the best way to enjoy this idyllic seaside town, savouring the quietness and change of pace from Nice.

Wander the colourful streets

Blending quintessential French ambience with an infusion of Ligurian aesthetic appeal, it’s easy to see the influence that has shaped Villefranche-sur-Mer over the centuries. The fortified seaside village became part of the Republic in 1860 after it changed hands between the Ottomans, Spanish, and the Kingdom of Sardinia before eventually becoming part of France as part of the Treaty of Turin.

As you saunter through the paved streets passing under brightly painted arches and flowers flowing from balconies, take your time. Though small, the beauty of this town deserves to be savoured. It’s not difficult to find the most photogenic pockets, but a few of my personal favourites are Rue Henri Biais looking back towards the hillside, Rue Volti, and Rue de Poilu.

Spend the day at the beach

Sparkling sea, a sheltered cove, and one of the most beguiling backdrops make this a top contender among the best beaches on the Cote d’Azur. Plage des Marinieres is a long, narrow beach that stretches around the bay and catches the sun for most of the day.

The beach consists of coarse sand rather than pebbles which is characteristic of much of this stretch of coastline, making it a popular choice for beachgoers. Perfect for families, the beach is easy to access from the train station and there’s plenty of space to spread out. There’s minimal shade, so pack sunscreen and an umbrella if you plan on making a day of it.

Shop the village market

Wednesday and Saturday welcome the twice-weekly village market to Promenade de l'Octroi which runs from 8am to around noon. Fresh fruit and vegetables, local cheese and olive oil, as well as ceramics and fresh flowers are traded from stalls throughout the morning. This is the perfect place to pick up a few things for a picnic lunch on the beach.

Drink and dine by the promenade

Quai de l'Amiral Courbet has a handful of restaurants and bars that occupy some of Villefranche-sur-Mer’s best real estate along the waterfront. True to the roots of this well-heeled pocket of France, the cost of a drink or a meal here does reflect the views and the typical clientele that frequent the town.

If you aren’t visiting when the village market is on, or prefer to let someone else take care of your meal, I’d recommend stopping by one of these restaurants for lunch or dinner.

La Mère Germaine
Olivula
Espuma

Visit the Citadel of Villefranche-sur-Mer

You’ll find the best view of the town from here thanks to its high position overlooking the town and across the bay. Designed in the 16th century as a medieval fortress to protect from attacks by sea and invasion, it was later used as a US naval base for almost 20 years after World War II.

Now operating as the Town Hall and a collection of museums, it is also known as Fort Saint-Elme and is the main cultural centre of Villefranche-sur-Mer. Free to visit, there are several permanent exhibitions including The Volti Foundation, The Goetz Boumeester Gallery, and The Roux Collection, as well as rotating temporary exhibitions from time to time.

Admire St Pierre Chapel

Painted in dusty pink and buttercup yellow, Saint Pierre Chapel was decorated by Jean Cocteau who lived in nearby Menton. Close to Villefranche-sur-Mer’s waterfront, the sacred site was built in the 16th century and was later used as a reserve for storing fishing equipment following a fire. The ornate illustrations decorating the interior depict scenes of the life of the Apostle Peter, the patron saint of fishermen.

The chapel is open from Wednesday to Sunday and costs €3 to enter.

How to get to Villefranche-sur-Mer

Villefranche-sur-Mer is super close to Nice, making it a breeze to get to. Nice is the closest airport to Villefranche-sur-Mer and from the city centre it’s less than 10 minutes by train. The service operating between Cannes and Menton runs frequently.

By train

Taking the train from Nice Ville station to Villefranche-sur-Mer is the fastest and easiest way, reaching your destination in just 7 minutes. Tickets start from €2.10 one way with services running as frequently as every 15 minutes. In peak times, trains can easily be booked out, so I do suggest you pre-book your tickets here.

By bus

If you’re not staying near Nice station, a bus might be a more convenient option for you to reach Villefranche-sur-Mer. The #80 passes through the opposite side of town near the port and takes around 20 minutes to reach Villefranche-sur-Mer, just alight at La Corne d’Or and walk down towards the sea. Alternatively, the #15 runs from behind the Old Town near the Modern and Contemporary Art Museum.

By bike or walking

You can reach Villefranche-sur-Mer in around 30 minutes from the centre of Nice if you plan on cycling. The route passes by Nice Port and around the coastline, making for a scenic journey. You can hire bikes from a number of places in Nice. Alternatively, you can take the same route on foot which will take approximately 1.5 hours - a lovely option if you have time.

Where to stay in Villefranche-sur-Mer

Compact-yet-beautiful, the town centre is the best place to stay as there’s nothing much beyond the harbour except the beach. There’s no shortage of charming apartments and boutique hotels to take your fancy.

Welcome Hotel | For a truly luxurious stay, the Welcome Hotel can’t be beaten for a stay in Villefranche-sur-Mer. With sea views and tastefully decorated rooms, it puts you right in the centre of town. Don’t miss the rooftop terrace with a wine and cocktail bar - a brilliant place to enjoy sunset.

Hotel Provencal | With rooms offering views of either the sea or the village, you can’t go wrong with a stay here. A contemporary hotel in the centre of town, you can’t miss the blush-pink exterior and sun-soaked terrace.

Cocon dans la vieille ville | This tastefully renovated one-bedroom apartment is perfect for a longer stay in Villefranche-sur-Mer. Warm wood finishings and exposed timber beams are complemented by airy, contemporary decor for a breezy stay close to the beach.

Hôtel La Fiancée du Pirate | With a pool, panoramic sea views, and modern amenities, you have everything you need for a comfortable stay close to everything in town.

Modern 3-bedroom home | Perfect for families or groups, this three-bedroom home in the heart of town is just minutes from Plage des Marinières. Equipped with a living room, full kitchen, and a washer and dryer, you’ve got everything you need to make the most of your stay.

Luxurious apartment | A beautifully renovated, ultra-modern one-bedroom apartment is perfect for those looking for a little piece of private luxury in Villefranche-sur-Mer. Rattan and wood details add warmth to the marble finishes, and there’s a kitchen if you plan on self-catering after a morning picking up ingredients at the local market.

Bay retreat with sunlit terrace | A lovely studio apartment complete with a kitchenette and sunlit balcony, you have everything you need for a comfortable stay.

Stylish duplex | With an interior that reflects the town’s colourful persona, this split-level apartment offers modern amenities and a bay view.

How long to spend in Villefranche-sur-Mer?

Perfectly placed between Nice and Monaco, Villefranche-sur-Mer is a quiet village that boasts some of the most beautiful views in the Cote d’Azur. You can easily visit the town and spend the whole day there, especially if you make a beach day of it.

A great base for those who prefer to avoid the crowds of larger towns, it’s also well-connected via the trains that run along the coast helping you reach other destinations including Nice, Eze, Monaco, and Menton.

There are plenty of accommodation options available, though fewer restaurants to eat at and they do run a little higher priced than in nearby Nice. If you like quieter destinations, then using Villefranche-sur-Mer as your base for 3 days will be perfect - and just remember Nice is only seven minutes by train!

When is the best time to visit Villefranche-sur-Mer?

My absolutely favourite time to visit Villefranche-sur-Mer is in September, after the crowds of summer holidays have left and before the cooler weather moves in. Shoulder season means fewer crowds, cheaper accommodation and still offers beautiful weather. I’d recommend visiting May-June or September-mid-October.