The Portuguese discovered this remote archipelago, scattered 800 miles west of their mainland in the swirling mists of the Atlantic Ocean in the early 1500s. The Azores comprise nine islands, each a mythical, magical land of volcanoes, bubbling thermal waters, geysers of rising steam, turquoise-toned lagoons, and bottle-green lakes. With a landscape that seemed alive, it is no wonder that the population turned to the Holy Spirit for protection—an allegiance they still have today, as witnessed in the many shrines and chapels that dot the towns and villages. More than anything, devotion to the Holy Spirit is a defining element of being Azorean.
That authenticity makes the Azores, some 400 miles apart, such a pleasure to visit, on top of their extraordinary and diverse landscapes, different gastronomic strengths and excellent wines. Increasingly sophisticated contemporary hotels are opening, old manors are being converted into hotels, and eco-lodges are launching for the walker and nature seeker for whom the frequent rain is no obstacle. But it is thanks to this climate that the islands are so green. That they have Europe’s only tea plantation, that the tiny pineapples are so intensely sweet and that the cows who graze all year round in fields bordered by rows of blue hydrangeas give us milk, butter, and cheese that is worth the journey alone.
São Miguel
Nicknamed the Ilha Verde (Green Island), São Miguel is the largest island and home to the regional capital, Ponte Delgada, making it a good starting point. Its cobbled streets are lined with imposing white-washed and basalt facades, allowing you to imagine when the port here was a crucial staging post between Europe and the New World. Now the Ponta Delgada has a thriving culinary scene, but for traditional fare, head across the island to Lagoa das Furnas, where cozido is cooked, a rich meat and vegetable stew which simmers underground for five hours. Across the lake are steaming geysers and bubbling springs, and beyond that, the impressive Parque Terra Nostra begun in the 18th century by a prosperous Bostonian. Surrounded by hibiscus, Japanese cedars and giant water lilies are warm, mustard-colored water holes where locals bathe to absorb the rich minerals.
Nearby is Lagoa das Sete Cidades (Lagoon of Seven Cities), a lake in a crater at the bottom of a dormant volcano. It is split in two, connected by a narrow straight, with one side a brilliant turquoise and the other a deep bottle green.
Santa Maria
Lying 34 miles south of São Miguel, Santa Maria was the first island to be discovered by the Portuguese in 1427. It boasts the warmest climate in the archipelago and, although only 11 miles long, has wonderful sandy beaches and crystal clear waters due to its temperate climate. This and its proximity to the natural reserve of Formigas and Dollabart Bank are why it is considered one of the best diving destinations in Europe.
Terceira
The most developed of the central islands, largely because of the American-run air base there – it does, however, still have twice as many cattle as inhabitants. Its gentle green interior is reminiscent of Ireland, whilst its coast has barren areas of black lava. The historic main city, Angra do Heroismo, is a UNESCO World Heritage site in recognition of its port has a strategic role in the Atlantic, a stopover point on the routes between Europe, America, and Africa for over 300 years. The island is known for its unusual form of bull running, ‘tourada à corda’ or bullfight with a rope, and the Algar do Carvão, a volcanic blast hole now home to some of the world’s largest stalactites.
Graciosa
One of the most peaceful islands in the Azores, its name translates as Enchanting, but it is also called ‘The White Island’ due to its coastline of white rocks, above which red turreted windmills stand. It is known for its adorable dwarf donkeys and traditional artisanal cheesecakes, but its main attraction is the Furna do Enxofre, where you can descend into the bowels of a volcanic crater. The island’s geothermal waters are popular for treatments, and the deep waters around the island make it ideal for dolphin or whale-watching expeditions.
São Jorge
Nicknamed ‘The Dragon’ due to its lengthy and mountainous shape, many villages on this lesser-visited island lie on flat areas, once debris fields or lava flows, and are tucked under steep slopes offering dramatic scenery. A favorite for outdoor enthusiasts, you can try canyoning, hiking, canoeing, and spelunking here. But allow time to savor the famous São Jorge cheese, the main production on the island. It is made exclusively with raw dairy milk and aged to have a spicy, tangy flavour. There is a certain amount of ongoing seismic activity, so check the situation before going.
Pico
Home to Pico, the highest mountain in Portugal, many people come here to climb that. Others come for whale watching in summer (the history of Azorean whaling can be studied at the Museum dos Baleeiros in Lajes) or some serious wine tasting. The island is covered by black basalt-lined vineyards, which are Unesco World Heritage sites. The Azores Wine Company, which is putting Pico on the oenological map with its new excellent wines, offers lovely accommodation in its sleek minimalist winery.
Faial
Famous as a yachting destination, this fertile island has an impressive carpet of blue hydrangeas in the summer months. It was the site of the last volcanic eruption in 1957-8, the story of which you can see in the nearby Museu dos Capelinhos. Another museum worth dipping into is The Scrimshaw Museum exhibiting centuries-old engraved whale bones and teeth.
Flores
The island of Flores or flowers, which gets its name from the goldenrods, and pink and blue hydrangeas, used to be a notorious hideout for pirates waiting to raid treasure-laden Spanish galleons on their return to Europe. Classified as a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, its landscape attracts walkers keen to marvel at its waterfalls, lagoons, and deep blue crater lake.
Corvo
The smallest island in the Azores is the blown top of the marine volcano, Monte Gordo. It is remarkably undeveloped, with just some 400 inhabitants, whose houses are built from the black basalt rock in the island’s one settlement, Vila Nova. Corvo, or Crow Island, popular with bird watchers, is a stopping point for many migratory birds.
This article was originally published on Condé Nast Traveller UK.
