A Local’s Guide to Malta

London-born Lily Agius opened her eponymous gallery in Sliema a decade ago to promote both Maltese and international artists. She is also the founder and editor of Artpaper, a magazine that documents creative life on the island.

This interview is part of The World Made Local, a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveler in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.

Tell us about your connection to Malta and how you fit into the current narrative.

Malta is one big city. It's small enough to explore and large enough to get lost in. You can experience the sea, countryside, or a town in a matter of minutes; you can be away from everything one moment, then be surrounded by activity. I fit into that way of life perfectly—I have no excuse to feel bored. In my work as an art dealer and publisher I am surrounded by an innovative group of artists, architects, designers, and curators. That's what makes Malta special to me, and I enjoy seeing their achievements and talents grow.

What’s so special about Sliema and Malta?

Sliema is the commercial center. It was originally a quiet fishermen’s village, then the wealthy Maltese and British made it their summer residence, building beautiful summer houses to escape the heat in Valletta—it’s a 10-minute ferry ride away. Today there are many shops, restaurants, bars, places to swim off the rocks, and a promenade that takes you to the next town, St. Julian's. Malta has a lot of charm. The Maltese are proud of what they do for work—often a trade that has been handed down from their fathers—and keen to share their knowledge and stories. You might see a horse and cart on a main road and a Porsche on a dirt road the same minute: it's a country of surprises, contrasts, and eccentricities. Look up the work of photographer Duška Malešević—it explains everything.

What excites you about where you live right now?

All the creative people who seek to express themselves artistically based on what's happening around them. One such performance artist is Charlene Galea, who reflects on the local political and environmental situation in her shows. Maltese artists in general are very talented. I have discovered a few over the years, and it is such a beautiful thing to witness them progress. My latest discovery is CO:MA, an artist who draws in charcoal and pencil, and has a solo show at my gallery in Sliema and online on Artsy on November 3. He emerged when I was a judge on a national competition with other local contemporary art galleries for my magazine Artpaper. Another artist who is working on his next collection for the gallery—he had his first solo show with me in 2018—is Lonkirkop. His first collection, of paintings on seven layers of mesh, created attention.

And what is your all-time favorite spot that you return to again and again?

In winter I regularly walk in the countryside—often in Fawwara or Buskett. And I like Sunday lunch at Rogantino’s and Ali Baba for Lebanese food.

Apart from your gallery, where should we head for a culture fix?

You should visit Valletta Contemporary, Blitz, Studio 104, St James Cavalier, Muza, and Micas, all in Valletta. Do also go to see The Mill in Birkirkara, run by the daughter of the late artist Gabriel Caruana—a pioneer of modern art in Malta. With so much talent on the island and limited exhibition space, everything on show is interesting and you are bound to meet the artists and curators themselves.

Follow Lily Agius on Instagram @lilyagius