You haven’t lived until you have plunged into the icy depths of the Baltic Sea. A counterintuitive notion in the middle of winter, maybe, but there's nothing more invigorating – or Finnish – than the considerably more extreme half of the traditional sauna experience. But then, Helsinki is a destination where full immersion, in every sense of the word, is easily accessible for residents and visitors alike. From open-air swimming in the local sea pools (followed by a steaming bowl of elk meatballs) to snow-shoeing across frozen lakes just 40 minutes out of the city, the Finnish capital offers the perfect mix of bracing activities, local culture and show-stopping architecture – and all less than three hours' flying time from London. Throw in a cardamom bun and you have yourself one hell of a city break.
Modern and minimal, Hotel St George (above) is the latest in a growing network of sister properties across the city that includes Hotel Kamp and Hotel Haven – the latter, positioned on the harbour with views over the Baltic, is well known as the "grand dame" of Helsinki hotels. But St George, which opened in spring last year and looks out over the City Park, differs from the rest of the network – and indeed from most of the existing hotels in the city. Its sleek, boutique style reflects Helsinki’s growing reputation as a design destination and clean lines prevail in a city where regal, soft furnishings and heavy fabrics characterise many of the luxury hotels.
St George is all about contrast, from the white-tiled on-site bakery and the bright winter garden to the moody and atmospheric Restaurant Andrea. The food here is pretty special – the spiced pumpkin is a particular treat on a cold, snowy night. Each of the 148 rooms and five suites are delicately designed using a pastel colour palette you will be hard pushed to find anywhere else in the city. It's a fresh new approach to hotel design in Helsinki and one well worth checking out.
There are around three million saunas in Finland, but since you are in Helsinki, make for Loyly (above). Part-owned by BlacKkKlansman star Jasper Paakkonen, this angular wooden structure on the Baltic has become one of Helsinki’s most famous buildings, since it opened in 2016. Divided into two sections, on one side there are two public saunas cut into the pine cladding, with a path between leading down to steps into the sea. Brace for impact and get it done. You won’t regret it (for long). Wooden benches around an open fire make for a perfect bar area for towel-clad drinks in the sauna bar. Loyly is open until 2am some days, so this is arguably the Finns' answer to a big night out, and the communal shower area is stunning in black concrete and Scandinavian birchwood. The other half of the structure is where you will find the restaurant. Typically Nordic, here the vibe is casual – you will be hard pushed to spot a single collared shirt in here – but first rate. Perfect for brunch or a post-sauna dinner.
There is no better way to experience the harbour front than by joining the locals in a few laps in one of the Allas Sea Pools (above). The main, more popular, pool is heated to a balmy 27C. But a word of warning: if there is snow on the ground and a -13C chill in the air, do not make the mistake of fully submerging unless you don’t mind ending up with frozen hair and earlobes. The other pool is kept at sea temperature. The Finns get in even when there is a layer of thin ice undulating on top. As for everyone else, it’s a personal choice.
The Oodi library (above), which opened in December last year, attracted 450,000 visitors in just one month and along with Loyly, was voted one of Time’s Best Places To Visit 2018. It's easy to see why: this ALA Architects-designed space is so much more than just a library; it is an inspiration. So go, walk around, look at the art, study the spiral staircase, grab a coffee, play some video games, check out the VR room, look on as visitors get to grips with the five free 3-D printers available for anyone to use, and then make your way up to the top floor – otherwise known as "book heaven" – for 360-degree views out over the city under a huge, white canopy. And more coffee. This place is incredible and it is easy to see why it can attract nearly half a million visitors in just one month.
One of Helsinki’s draws is its proximity to the great outdoors. Just 40 minutes' drive from the city and you are in the heart of Nuuksio National Park. Lakes, forest and cabin saunas galore, this place is magical all year round. From stand-up paddling and kayaking in the summer to snowshoeing in the winter, with hiking trails open all year round, you can walk for miles and not see another soul. Team up with Sea & Mountain Adventures for the ultimate nature experience. You are less likely to get lost and you will be treated to an al fresco picnic of hot blackcurrant juice, cinnamon buns and sausages cooked on one of the open fires dotted around the park.
The Helsinki food scene is getting increasingly sophisticated and experimental, with a strong focus on foraged, local foods. Try Atelje Finne (above) for a cosy, small-bistro dinner which serves local dishes with a modern twist. Set over three levels with local art displayed throughout, the former studio of sculptor Gunnar Finne is the perfect spot for art and food lovers alike. Sandro is a buzzing local hotspot in the heart of the city’s Harju district and a firm brunch favourite. The weekend “Marrakech Madness Brunch” is not to be missed. For a great burger or fillet steak, the restaurant at Hotel Kamp is also worth a visit. The salon area runs along the Pohjoisesplanadi avenue heading down to the harbour with views into the Esplanadi urban park. It is particularly atmospheric in winter, when lights are strung through the trees all the way down to the waterfront.
British Airways and its partner Finnair flies from London Heathrow to Helsinki seven times a day.
