From Russia, with love

For several years, many of us have enjoyed a delightful array of Spanish tapas, Chinese dim sum, Indonesian ristaffel and other small dishes that add to a convivial social gathering. One of the richest traditions in small dish dining comes from 18th-century Russia. These dishes, known as zakuski, are the perfect pairing with vodka on a cold evening.I discovered zakuski several years ago and found the range of dishes to be quite enticing. I am surprised that such a treasure trove of dishes has remained virtually unnoticed in this country. So, here is a brief history of zakuski and a selection of dishes for you to try. Maybe the little dishes of Russia will become the next “hot” food trend.Zakuska literally means “little bite” in Russian. Zakuski is the plural form, referring to the entire range of dishes. The dishes are generally served with a predinner shot of vodka. In 19th-century Russia, zakuski became increasingly popular, especially among the wealthy estate owners who frequently entertained unexpected guests. Depending on the affluence of the host, the zakuska table would be filled with dishes reflecting that wealth. In the wealthier homes, the table was filled with a variety of caviars heaped in bowls. Several types of smoked fish, both hot and cold, were served, including sturgeon and salmon. Beautifully prepared pts, composed salads and filled pastries were part of the spread. Additional items included pickles of all kinds and sliced meats or “charcuterie.” Add to this spectacular array a few decanters of excellent vodka, and you were assured to have a fabulous evening with your guests.In more modest homes, there was no caviar to serve. In Russia today, times are also much more frugal, but the tradition of serving zakuski has not been lost. The real caviar has been replaced by “caviar” made from beets, mushrooms or eggplant. More pickles and vegetable based dips and salads fill out a more limited selection of smoked fish and meats.I am sharing a recipe for beet caviar. Vegetables make a terrific substitution for real caviar when they are chopped finely to resemble the small fish eggs. This dish is from the western part of what was once the Soviet Union and has become one of the most popular dishes throughout Russia today. I converted my daughter into a beet lover with this dish. It can be served as a zakuska or as a colorful accompaniment to a dinner of roasted chicken or duck. Salad Olivier is named for a French chef who cooked for Czar Nicholas II in the mid-1800s. It has become a dish known as Russian salad throughout Europe. You can serve the salad in small tartlets or puff pastry shells. Personally, I think this salad may have been the inspiration for the famous American classic, Waldorf salad with its similar list of ingredients. I prefer the Russian variety with its more savory tones.I have also included a recipe for satsivi, an unusual chicken dish designed to be eaten cold, which is the actual meaning of satsivi. The sauce, or dressing, is made from a unique blend of spices and herbs and ground walnuts. Satsivi is from Georgia and is a dish that every Georgian family takes pride in. The blend of herbs and spices is always a well kept secret by each cook. Typically, satsivi is prepared with cut up chicken that is skinned and boned after preparation. I have adapted the dish using boneless chicken breasts for a simpler, less fatty result. The flavor remains unique and delicious.When preparing a zakuski table, be sure to include pickled herring, either in brine or cream sauce. You can make some chopped herring and serve it in hard boiled eggs. Also include a variety of pickled vegetables at your table. You can purchase these items as well as a savory selection of charcuterie to expand your spread without facing a mountain of work. I always include one or two sweets in my zakuski assortment. Rum babas, meringues and fancy tortes are very authentic and are a great way to end a meal full of salty and savory flavors. You could include some poached fruit or homemade ice cream for a simpler finale. Nasdrovya!