Vogue’s Guide to the Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast, an idyllic region that wraps around Italy’s southern cliffs, is a bucket list locale for many. The roads wind romantically, the water is a calming azure, and the spaghetti alle vongole is plentiful—it’s the epitome of la dolce vita. There is arguably no other destination that evokes such a fantasy, having been glamorized in films like The Talented Mr. Ripley and waxed on poetically by authors like John Steinbeck. (“Positano bites back,” he once wrote.)

Steinbeck’s beloved Positano is just one town within the Amalfi Coast region: There’s also Praiano, its quieter and quaint neighbor. Or Ravello, the hilltop hamlet that offers sweeping views of the coast and beyond. And, of course, Amalfi, with its whitewashed buildings that sprawl alongside the sea.

But what, exactly, should one stay, do, and eat in this much-mythologized corner of the world? Here, find Vogue’s guide to the Amalfi Coast.

When to Go

The summer months of July and August are Amalfi’s high season. And with good reason: the Tyrrhenian Sea is sparkling, blue, and beckoning, the temperatures in the high eighties, and the citrus groves plump with lemons. It’s also the most crowded, and most expensive.

If you want a surefire scene, the summer is the time to go. Yachts dot the harbor of Positano, and the beach clubs are bouncing. An Aperol spritz or limoncello is never out of reach. However, those seeking a cultural experience should go in September or October, when the masses disperse, and the calmer charms of Amalfi emerge.

Where to Stay

The downside of Ravello is that it is far from the water. The upside? The spectacular, unparalleled views. The grand Belmond Hotel Caruso, which is set upon a cliff 1,000 feet above sea level, has them in abundance. Breakfast on a sky-high terrace serves serenity alongside a delectable cappuccino. Meanwhile, the gardens and their flower-filled trellises colorfully contrast with the blue of the sea. Somehow, the inside is as resplendent as the grounds. Housed in an 11th-century palace, gilded chandeliers are suspended from the ceiling while Old Master paintings hang on the wall. —Elise Taylor

Amenities: Free shuttle service to Amalfi and Positano, swimming pool, BBQ areas, 24-hour front desk

Address: Piazza San Giovanni del Toro 2, 84010 Ravello, Italy

Painted a firehouse red with white trimming, Le Sirenuse is a paradisiacal property with mosaic terraces, elegant guest rooms, and terraces upon the Tyrrhenian sea where it feels like one could gaze upon the cliffside homes forever. It is a feast for the eyes from the moment you arrive to the moment you leave. Le Sirenuse is owned by the Sersale family, who in 1951, transformed their summer villa into a boutique hotel. At the time, Positano was still a sleepy fishing village. But when John Steinbeck stayed at the hotel three years later and then wrote about it in a travel story for Harper’s Bazaar, suddenly the hotel and idyllic Italian town was very much on the map. In 2023, Le Sirenuse was named the 20th best hotel in the world by The World’s 50 Best organization. —E.T.

Amenities: Spa, swimming pool, hammam, Michelin-star restaurant on property (including an oyster bar!), and a fitness center

Address: Via Cristoforo Colombo 30, 84017 Positano, Italy

You know you’ve arrived at Monastero Santa Rosa when you spot the 17th-century belltower off to one side of the notoriously hairy road that winds along the Amalfi Coast—and you know you’ve arrived somewhere with a particular kind of old-world charm when the staff rings the monastery bell to let the reception know you’ve arrived. Step inside and along its sweeping corridors, and you’ll catch glimpses through the open windows of the jaw-dropping views; each of the property’s 20 rooms (including eight suites) that were once the preserve of nuns is named after a local flower or herb, and has been thoughtfully decorated with pared-back but utterly luxurious furnishings. Once you’ve flung open the windows to take in those views again—and taken a deep inhale of the sea breeze mingling with the scent of the jasmine that climbs the hotel walls—you’ll want to explore the gardens, which are tiered like an elaborate wedding cake to lead you down to a spectacular kidney-shaped swimming pool where you can enjoy a light lunch of a fresh seafood platter or salad. A light lunch, that is, because you’ll need to save room for dinner at the Michelin-starred Il Refettorio restaurant, which showcases the very finest local seafood and vegetables: don’t miss the crudo of the day or chef Alfonso Crescenzo’s riff on cacio e pepe with red shrimp and truffle. This is classic, unfussy Amalfi charm executed to the highest degree—and you’ll quickly understand why guests here return year in, year out. —Liam Hess

Amenities: Free area shuttle, bike rentals, outdoor pool, free self parking, luxe spa featuring a tepidarium, Turkish bath, and whirlpool bath

Address: Via Roma 2, 84010 Conca dei Marini, Italy

Borgo Santandrea landed on the Amalfi Coast in 2021 like a breath of fresh air—not only the first luxury hotel of its caliber to debut in the region in 15 years, but also a haven for discerning design obsessives. Overlooking the picturesque fishing town of Conca dei Marini, the hotel’s 52 individually designed guest rooms and suites may dovetail perfectly with the natural surroundings thanks to their soothing palettes of Mediterranean blues and whites, but the emphasis here is very firmly on celebrating Italy’s rich history of mid-century design, paying particular tribute to Gio Ponti. Arguably the greatest draw of all here, however, is the private beach, which you reach via a 90-meter elevator: here you’ll find a beach club set up with loungers across pebbles and decking, as well as one of the hotel’s three restaurants serving up plates of fritto misto and seafood spaghetti at lunchtime. Pure bliss. —L.H.

Amenities: Private beach, seasonal outdoor pool, spa, and bike rentals available

Address: Via Giovanni Augustariccio 33, Amalfi, Salerno, 84011

For those wanting to be close, but not overwhelmed by, the action of the Amalfi Coast, consider Praiano. It’s a 10 to 15-minute drive to Positano and its vibrant nightlife, with less of the crowds. Stay at Casa Angelina, a modern boutique hotel where everything is white. (But, really, the hotel assigns a painter to go over every exterior and interior to make sure it says pristine.) Local, contemporary Murano glass art dots the hallway, and the bar has a menu fully dedicated to different spins on an Aperol spritz. It’s a perfect spot for repeat visitors to the Campania region who want a more intimate and relaxed experience. —E.T.

Amenities: Parking, pool, spa, breakfast included, private beach area, swimming pool, and two restaurants (one traditional and one poolside)

Address: Via G Capriglione 147, Praiano, SA, 84010

This Positano grande dame has been in the business for over 50 years—and with the impeccable hospitality on offer, it shows. Perched across a series of cascading cliffisides, this architectural marvel has all the breathtaking grandeur you’d want from an Amalfi Coast stay, while also—with just 56 rooms—feeling remarkably intimate, thanks to charming design details like its famous benches featuring hand-painted tiles overlooking the sea, or the bold splashes of Mediterranean blue throughout. Meals can be as gourmet or as casual as you like, and there’s a similarly relaxed attitude to how you spend your time there—no doubt the product of the hotel still being very much a family-run enterprise. (They’ll happily whizz you for a boat ride around the bay, or down to the town center for a spot of shopping.) And worth the reservation alone, especially if you’re a sports fan? The opportunity to knock a ball around on what must surely be one of the most beautiful tennis courts in the world, carefully nestled at sea level with two vertiginous cliffs rising on either side of it. —L.H.

Amenities: Private beach, spa, pool, boat tours and kayaking available, gym (with yoga and pilates classes available), two on-site restaurants, including a Michelin-star one

Address: Via Laurito, 2, 80017 Positano, Italy

When Valentino wanted to design a resort pop-up in the summer of 2023, they chose Palazzo Avino, the iconic Ravello hotel housed in a 12th-century pink villa. It's easy to see why: the blissful property has been a celebrity getaway for decades with its Michelin Star restaurant, artfully appointed 33 guest rooms, and a discreet beach club that evokes 1950s glamour. —E.T.

Amenities: Private beach area, two swimming pools, on-site restaurant, and fitness center

Address: Via San Giovanni del Toro 28, 84010 Ravello, Italy

Things to Do

If it’s warm—actually, even if it’s not—get out on the water. The best way to see the Amalfi Coast is with a day out on a boat (contact your hotel concierge ahead of time to see what service they recommend.) The most popular swimming hole in the region is Grotta dello Smeraldo, but be prepared for a lot of other tourist water treaders. If you’d rather go to one of the public beach clubs, head to Praiano’s Marina di Praia (and make sure to grab lunch at the restaurant while you’re there).

On land, historic treasures await. As with most Italian towns, the houses of worship are works of art. Visit the Duomo in Amalfi, where the Byzantine facade is made of striped marble and stone. In Ravello, wander around the Villa Rufolo, an escape so beautiful that it inspired scenes in Richard Wagner’s Parsifal.

And shop! The Amalfi region is known for its colorful, hand-painted table and plate wares. These ceramics stores abound on every cobblestone street—and make sure to spend your time wandering through each and every one. (Bargain hunters: head to Ceramica Solimene in Vietri Sul Mare for ceramics that cost half the price of those in Positano and Ravello.) —E.T.

Where to Eat

The most important activity in Amalfi? Exercising your appetite, and doing it often. Southern Italy is the birthplace of pizza, making a pie a must-order. Stop by Criscito’s in Praiano, where the bufalina pizza is absolute perfection, or Donna Stella in Amalfi.

At Le Sirenuse, La Sponda is the perfect spot for a special occasion meal— it’s full of honeymooners basking in bliss. The Champagne Bar is a more casual outpost, although still quite lavish (it’s called the Champagne Bar, after all). Order the tomato salad, a dish so simple yet flavorful you’ll be dreaming about it days afterwards.

And the pasta! Trattoria Da Cumpa Cosimo in Ravello is a rustic spot where the dishes are simple, fresh, and delicious.

In Amalfi, dine at La Caravella, a family-owned, Michelin-starred institution that once counted Andy Warhol as a patron. The lemon soufflé, described as “sun in a dish,” is a sweet treat that encompasses the citrus flavors of the region. —E.T.