Jelly Bean Tetra - Ladigesia roloffi - Federation of British Aquatic ...

EDITORIAL 4 

SPOTTING ILL HEALTH 5 

ASK US 10 

STUCK IN THE MUD 11 

HAVE YOU READ? 14 

CONGRATULATIONS, PETE! 14 

KEEPING UP WITH TECHNOLOGY 15 

A TOPICAL CHALLENGE 19 

HOWARD PRESTON 21 

FOILED AGAIN 22 

KNOW YOUR FISH – Gastromyzon punctulatus 24 

THE INTERVIEW 26 

JELLY BEAN TETRA 28 

IS THERE A CROCODILE IN YOUR GARDEN? 29 

THE GREEN CORNER 30 

CONGO TETRA 33 

DANDY FISHES 35 

BREEDING GOLDFISH 39 

DON’T JUST CONGREGATE – COMMUNICATE! 41 

FESTIVAL OF FISHKEEPING NEWS 42 

HI, I’M KEITH 46 

NEW TO YOU? 47 

KEVIN’S KAPERS 48 

SHOWS & EVENTS 52 

Opinions expressed in any article remain those of the author 

and are not necessarily endorsed by this publication 

Produced for FBAS website by Dick Mills

www.fbas.co.uk 

EDITORIAL 

I wonder if anyone out there has spotted the relevance of our cover picture 

with regard to this magazine? 

No? Well, I’ll give you a clue – it’s like those popular ‘Dingbats’ puzzles 

found in some magazines and the answer is often one of my exhortations 

to readers. Give up? O.K. – it’s ‘Putting Pencil to Paper’- and I’m pleased 

to say we have some good examples of this in this issue. (Just in case 

you’re wondering, the fish in question is Nannostomus espei). 

Spring being close on hand (we hope!) there are some ‘outdoor 

fishkeeping’ items for you although indoor aquarists are not neglected in 

any way, shape or form. 

Already, too, brains are ticking over as to what might be new in attractions 

at this year’s Festival of Fishkeeping and I can reveal that there’s a new 

challenge ahead especially for the ladies – but don’t go expecting the 

Chippendales, girls! 

Later this year, we will have all the excitement of the XXXXXX Games and 

with this in mind, we’re toying with an idea for adding a little topical 

excitement to Societies’ Open Shows here, too, if we can get enough 

interest. 

Malcolm Goss, 

25 The Gowers, Chestnut Lane, Amersham, 

Buckinghamshire HP6 6ER 

tel: 01494 722786 e-mail: malcolmgoss@tiscali.co.uk 

4

In order to recognise a poorly fish, we must first know what a fish looks like 

and how it behaves when healthy. We can only recognise the ‘abnormal’ 

when we know what is normal. 

A tropical fishkeeper 

could become concerned 

that their Synodontis 

catfish are swimming 

upside down – 

For example, a Goldfish keeper may become 

concerned about the presence of small white 

spots on the gill covers and pectoral fins of their 

fish. Further investigation will lead them to 

discover that these small white spots are not a 

sign of disease but are actually special 

spawning pimples that cover certain parts of 

male Goldfish at spawning time. 

5

this could be a sign of a swim bladder disorder. Again further investigation 

will lead the fishkeeper to discover that the fish are actually ‘upside-down 

catfish’, that swim happily in an inverted position when juvenile, often 

resorting to a more conventional posture as adult fish. 

These two examples highlight the need to know your fish! 

Knowing your fish starts before you have even purchased them from your 

aquatic store. When you read up on the potential size, feeding and water 

quality requirements of any potential new fish, try to also seek information 

about the natural appearance of the fish at different stages of their life cycle 

and their natural ‘normal’ behaviour. Kribensis cichlids (Pelvicachromis 

pulcher) for example show a markedly red belly at spawning time, this 

could be mistaken for bacterial erythrema. Clown Loaches (Chromobotia 

macracanthus), are notorious for the eccentric behaviours. At the Tetra 

fishkeeping helpdesk we hear of many who play ‘dead’ and even of one 

Clown Loach who destroyed its aquarium by pulling out the silicone that 

held the glass panels of the tank together! 

Upon acquiring your fish, you should familiarise yourself with the 

individual’s natural appearance and its behaviour. In the first few days in 

the tank, your new fish are likely to be very timid and may decline feeding, 

however as they settle most common freshwater aquarium inhabitants will 

venture out into the tank and respond to feeding. 

Notice the swimming patterns of your fish, how quickly they eat food and 

the method of food intake. Feeding time offers an excellent time for a brief 

visual health check of your fishes. 

However, as emphasised above, we must be familiar with ‘normal’ 

appearance and behaviour of healthy fish in order to recognise ‘abnormal’ 

and thus potential ill health. 

Abnormal signs to look out for can be split into behavioural and 

morphological deviations from the accepted ‘normal’ state of your fish. 

Behavioural indicators of ill health include gasping for air at the water 

surface, a common sign of gill disease or water quality problems in most 

fishes – in air breathing fishes such as the Lungfish this is perfectly normal 

behaviour. 

Changes in the swimming activity are a sure sign of potential ill health. If a 

normally active fish ceases swimming activity, becoming lethargic and 

swimming only when disturbed, then this is a strong indicator of ill health. 

6

For sedentary carnivorous fishes, this is again a common ‘normal’ 

behaviour. Fish infected by skin parasites or irritated by certain water 

pollutants, will flick and scratch against objects in the aquarium or pond. 

Erratic darting motion instead of smooth swimming is often seen in small 

tropical aquarium fishes when they are infected by internal parasites or 

bacteria. These affect the swimbladder and occasionally the muscular 

systems, which has an affect on posture and locomotory activity. 

Assuming an abnormal posture, such as a 

lopsided gait or even fully upside-down, is 

usually a sign of a swim-bladder problem, 

a common complaint in Fancy Goldfish. 

The same problems can also cause the 

fish to loose its normal neutral buoyancy, 

and they either sink or rise when at rest. 

A fish that normally feeds voraciously, refusing food is a sure sign of ill 

health. As in all fish health problems, the first thing to check is that the 

water quality is within the preferred limits of the fish. 

As can be seen we must carefully observe our fishes when they are healthy 

in order to recognise behavioural changes shown when they are sick. 

The same is true for the external appearance of the fish, familiarise yourself 

with its colours, body contours and finnage. External signs of disease are 

all some deviation from the normal condition. 

If a fish’s skin is irritated either by pollutant in the water such as ammonia, 

or by infection with a skin parasite, the first response the fish will show, (In 

addition to the flicking and scratching mentioned above), is overproduction 

of mucus. The mucus layer is highly protective and the fish increases its 

production when the skin is irritated. This overproduction of skin mucus 

makes the fish’s colours look duller and it assumes a grey hazy 

appearance. 

7

Most external parasite 

infections cause very 

generalised symptoms, 

one however, known as 

white spot, causes a very 

recognisable condition. 

As the name suggests, infection of the skin with the White Spot parasite 

causes the fish to develop tiny white pimples over its body. The white spots 

are around 1mm in diameter, they tend to develop on the fins first before 

progressing over the body as the infection proceeds. Scaleless fishes such 

as Clown Loach are highly susceptible. 

Another very recognisable condition is Finrot, although there are many 

possible causes. The fins of a healthy fish should be complete, symmetrical 

and of a uniform consistency. During Finrot the skin between the bony fin 

rays rots away leaving the fish with decaying tissue where the fins used to 

be. If the cause of the Finrot is identified and treated, the fins rapidly grow 

back. Finrot is caused either by water pollution, most commonly extremes 

of pH or ammonia poisoning. Infection with certain types of bacteria can 

also cause the problem. The delicate tissue of the mouth is also prone to a 

similar necrosis. 

Bacterial infection can also cause large open sores on the skin of the fish 

called ulcers. These are very damaging and must be treated early. 

8

Many internal problems can manifest themselves with external symptoms. 

Damage to the muscle around the spine, or vertebral deformity can lead to 

spinal bending, here the fish’s spine assumes a pronounced curvature and 

swimming is often affected. There are many causes of spinal damage. 

Infection or damage to the delicate tissue behind the eye can lead to 

swelling which pushes the eye outwards – a condition known as 

exophthalmia or Pop-Eye. Often in these circumstances the fluid in the eye 

will turn cloudy also. 

Recognition of disease in fish involves knowing what your fish look like, 

how they swim, feed, interact, and behave. It is only when we truly know 

our fish can we begin to recognise the early signs of an ill health problem. 

Visit Tetra at www.tetra-fish.com 

GOING, GOING, GONE! 

I hope many of you will have read the 

article in the December 2009 issue of the 

Bulletin on the fact that Kodak was 

stopping the production of their slide film, 

Kodacolor. 

Many hobbyist over the years have taken many aquatic photos in this way 

and have been the accomplishment for first class talks on fish club 

evenings. 

So it was no surprise that the announcement of Kodak was closing came to 

those both in the photographic trade and the photographic hobby. 

With digital photos taking over film and the fact that Kodak never kept up 

the pace, unlike Fuji and others, sadly saw the last of Kodak. 

For those that still like to take slides my local Boots store had for sale 

Fujichrome 35mm 100, price £14.29 and those who like something faster 

400 at £15.31 all included processing. 

9

Q: When doing a partial water change on tropical tank, how do I get the 

replacement water to correct temperature before adding to the established 

water already in the aquarium? 

A: Whilst most people try to add replacement water at the same temperature 

of the existing aquarium water, it is not absolutely necessary to do so and 

many aquarists simply use water straight from the tap- often through a 

hosepipe. 

To digress a little, some tropical fish, Corydoras catfish for instance, can be 

triggered into spawning by adding far cooler water to their tank. 

This imitates Nature where melting mountain snow runs down to fill the rivers; 

where this causes the rivers to overflow, the knock-on effect drowns millions 

of insects on which any baby fish can then feed. Hence adult fish, upon 

sensing a cooling down of water temperature, quickly get into breeding 

mode! 

But back to your question. If you only take out a reasonable amount of 

water from the tank - let's say a large bucketful/ a couple of gallons – 

just standing the bucket in the same room for an hour or two will warm it up a 

bit, even more so if you have a space-heated fish room. 

Alternatively, you could warm the water up in the bucket by adding a kettle of 

boiling water or even use a spare aquarium heater to heat up the water to the 

required temperature. 

When using water from the tap, it is advisable to use water-conditioning 

agents to neutralise heavy metals and/or chloramines present in the water. 

Notice that the word ‘dechlorinator’ has passed out of use as old-fashioned 

chlorine is now no longer in regular use by the water authorities. 

In some areas, rain water from the butt may be acidic due to atmospheric 

pollution or otherwise contaminated from dirty roofs and metallic 

guttering. 

10

�� 

For those who like the thought of building a "Wild Life Pond" and wish to 

truly make it as close to natural as possible, fibreglass, liners or cement for 

them are not the real thing. That then leaves us turning to ��. 

This may not seem a job with the winter months here but, except for those 

hard frosty days, wet conditions are in your favour. The digging of the pond 

is really hard work and often the deeper you dig the harder it can get. 

If you are intending to create a 

pond that would be over 3 metres 

wide you may well feel it would 

be an investment to hire a digger 

with a bucket with caterpillar 

tracks so it does not get bogged 

down. With clay you do not have 

to conform to any shape, in fact a 

stream would be easier with clay 

and you don’t have to worry 

about hiding the left-over liner. 

Well you cannot go along to your nearest garden centre or water garden 

just to purchase clay, it needs to be shopped around for, and this can be 

down by looking on the internet. It helps not only to find the price but the 

nearest supplier to you - and that may be some distance away. 

It is also not the type of thing where you can just turn up in your car and 

hope to get it in the boot, no not even a 4 X 4. So ask what the delivery 

charge is. 

If like me, it is likely to come on a long articulated flat-bed lorry, and no way 

could get down this long drive. You may well order what you think is a small 

amount but the driver will have half a dozen other deliveries all over the 

country and will be using a much larger vehicle which has to have access 

to your site. Clay comes in bags just like cement - in both size and weight! - 

and also in powder form. If what I have said so far has not put you off, well 

make a start and best of luck. 

11

Often wildlife ponds do not house any fish so the depth is up to you, but 

you still need a finishing depth of half a metre and the clay needs to be at 

least 100mm thick if not a bit more. 

The sides need to be a gentle slop, or to step it may be hard for the clay to 

hold on to the sides. As with all pond excavations, ensure that you have 

level-cut area excavated into the ground that will be form pond’s edging. 

If the pond is large, so will be the amount you dig out so, if the surplus soil 

has to be placed some distance away, then you’d better hire a dumper 

truck while ordering the digger! 

Try to get all this work done in the shortest time scale as possible to cut 

down on the hire cost of your machinery. Clean up the whole area as 

smooth as you can; by now you could be down to a mixture of both clay 

and soil. If it rains there will be on harm done, but if your pond contains too 

much water, more than an inch deep you must let it dry out a bit before you 

attempt to start claying. Any deeper than that then you can use a pond 

pump to empty it out. 

Once you start emptying your powered clay over a small area, you will be 

surprised how fast your bags of clay start to go down. Any dampness in 

your pond will soak through the powder clay, if it’s too dry you will have to 

hose some water on it. Cover the hole of the bottom even if it’s not the 

required thickness you can add more if required, so building the thickness 

up in layers. 

Now with wellies on you can start 

‘puddling’, this means you just keep 

walking on the clay, stomping is good 

to remove any air holes or pockets. 

The sides or areas that you cannot 

walk or stomp, will have to be patted 

by hand. Navvies used to puddle with 

their feet, and Capability Brown used 

herds of cows. It’s a job that requires 

effort almost beyond the normal call 

of duty. There is no room for the 

notion of “that will do” - you must go all the way, and beyond. 

Once the clay is in place I would put down a layer of "pool underlay" or 

geo-textile to protect the clay from intrusion from plants and other damage 

and then a small layer of gravel. 

12

Where the clay meets the soil one can get water drainage in the form of 

capillary seepages. To prevent this, set up a capillary barrier, this can be 

done at the start by excavating a shallow 15cm deep and 30cm wide gulley 

below water level around the pond and filling it with a kneaded ring of clay. 

Fill with water or let heavy rain, if you have it, do it for you; if the water goes 

down don’t worry, it often does. Now let it go down as far as you can 

without drying out the clay. 

Mark Goss (Aqua Services) 

13 

Often a “whacker-plate” 

from the hire shop tied to 

a rope can be let down 

the pond sides and let it 

vibrate as long as you 

can hold on, a strong 

friend would be of great 

help to stop it falling in. 

If you have any nearby 

building, sheds or 

greenhouses divert the 

rain into a run-off to keep 

the water level topped up. 

After all this, you can 

easily understand why 

the world and his fish 

have resorted to the 

convenience of a pvc 

liner. 

However, as summer 

gets under way, you can 

sit and look at what is a 

dream no more, but the 

real Wildlife Pond right in 

front of your eyes.

Pete Cottle reviews 

Frreshwatterr – Trropiicall 

Barrbs & ttheiirr sub--speciies 

by Miike Dewarr 

Mike has written a book of some 150 pages jam-packed with information on 

the various species of Barbs. In many instances, he gives detailed 

information on the keeping (or NOT) and breeding of them. 

As a reference book it is extremely useful – particularly when it comes to 

the differences between P. denisonii and P. chalakudiensis and the ‘other’ 

two, Puntius arulias and tambraparnei. Then, again so many fish keepers 

still think they have Puntius tetrazona in their tanks (the Tiger Barb) but as 

Mike explains, they really have Puntius anchisporus! 

The subject of Barbs is a large and complex one and I applaud Mike for his 

dedication and hard work in producing this book. 

This book at the very modest price of £19.50 post free is well worth 

purchasing. It can be obtained by an email to Mike at 

barbus1@virginmedia.com 

CONGRATULATIONS PETE! 

For his work over many years as Judge, 

Speaker and an ambassador to the hobby, 

Pete Cottle has been made a Vice-President 

of the FBAS. 

14

It’s frequently said that 

aquarium keeping is 

one of those hobbies 

where there seems to 

be infinite opportunities 

to advance from easy 

up to more challenging 

levels as experience is 

gained. Although our 

hobby is still regarded 

as an art rather than a 

science, often a large 

part of the on-going 

education in building up 

this expertise, these 

days, is mainly related 

to learning what 

technologies are 

available to help 

us and how these can be employed. In a nutshell our hobby is becoming 

more and more technology driven, providing discriminating hobbyists with a 

whole range of technically advanced high quality aquatic products. 

The best example of how rapid these advances have been made in recent 

years has occurred in aquarium filtration. The demand for more 

sophisticated methods of filtration has been fuelled not only by the desire 

by hobbyists to apply the best standards of water quality for their livestock 

but also to improve on these in order to keep the types of sensitive and 

demanding subjects at the advanced level of the hobby now becoming 

available. As a result, aquatic filter manufacturers, in particular, have 

become masters of innovative technologies in continually developing new 

products to meet the ever broadening specifications required. 

External canister filters have become the most favoured method of filtration 

chosen by most aquarists and 

perhaps best illustrate the 

technically advanced levels that 

can be achieved. 

To illustrate my point, I have 

recently put the new Hagen Fluval 

06 range of this type of filter 

through its paces. 

15

This current update of the Fluval external canister range incorporates 

leading edge European design, technology and workmanship that is 

second to none. The Italian engineers and designers have applied more 

than three decades of product development to reach the current state of 

the art designs used in this latest remarkable new series of filters and it’s 

fair to say that the best just got better! 

At first glance you might be forgiven for going into raptures similar to those 

Jeremy Clarkson displays when he finds a newly introduced sports car of 

his choice. 

The sleek black, red and white livery of this new filter range 

is very sporty looking echoing the masterful approach of the 

designers and promising further innovative changes which 

might be found when delving deeper. Comparisons with the 

previous 05 series obviously are on your mind when you 

check out these new boys on the block. The most notable 

updates on looking into specification improvements are the 

clever mechanical changes which allow the filter to work 

more efficiently. 

The 06 filter motors are more powerful than their predecessors in the 05 

series and deliver 15% more power, remarkably, without increasing power 

usage. This is achieved not only by improvements in motor design but also 

in efficiency updates elsewhere, such as the completely re-engineered 

impeller and impeller cover. At contact points between the impeller and 

cover sit tiny ceramic rings which are virtually friction-free. These allow 

much smoother operation and reduce vibration and noise to a bare 

minimum for almost silent running. 

Similar attention to good design is a key word in 

describing many of the other components of this 

state of the art series of filters. The sturdy 

canister, for example, not only looks good but its 

fibreglass reinforced construction increases 

quality and durability as do the chunky almost 

indestructible lift-lock clamps which fit snugly 

into the palm of the hand when operating the 

cam-action technology. 

In addition, the squared off design of the design provide more volume than 

would be possible with round canisters of the same outer dimensions. 

Increased volume means a greater amount of mass of filter material and a 

larger filter area. 

16

Fluval filters are first and foremost designed and engineered for 

dependable performance plus ease of use and this remains a prerequisite 

of the new 06 range. Features like the click-on-rim connector assemblies 

for hosing and one-step lift-lock clamps on the canister make setting up 

and routine maintenance quick and convenient. 

Plus easy starting is ensured with the completely 

re-engineered Instant Primer System. This instant 

prime function overcomes any need for manual 

siphoning and filter start up is both simple and 

quick. A further boon is provided for by the 

patented Aquastop valve which is an exclusive 

Fluval design offering unparalleled convenience 

and ease of use. Attached to the filter lid, where 

the hoses connect, this cleverly designed valve 

creates an air and water-tight seal that permits 

the hosing to be disconnected without breaking 

the vacuum. 

This is a really convenient feature as it means the filter can be started up 

again without the need for priming. 

The measure of any canister filter is its capability 

and fitness for purpose. 

Like earlier models in the Fluval range the 06 

series filters employ what is called multistage 

filtration. This form of filtration utilises the entire 

canister’s volume for radically increased water flow 

efficiency. Filtration always begins with a 

mechanical stage of waste particle removal. 

Twin foam pre-filters accomplish this task and 

these are mounted vertically to increase flow and 

reduce maintenance. There then follows, 

depending on the size of filter, a series of up to four 

interchangeable media baskets. These are slotted 

together one above the other, the path taken by the 

water flowing up between each basket. 

Every filter comes complete with a range of media 

starting with a BioFoam block for the lowest level 

basket this finer foam material is ideal for removing 

any small dirt particles that are not retained by the pre-filters and in addition 

performs well as a large surface to accommodate beneficial bacteria 

colonies. 

17

Mid level basket(s) are best reserved for the biological reduction process. 

Biomax is provided for this purpose which has excellent properties 

providing both mechanical filtration as well as creating an excellent 

environment for beneficial bacteria to proliferate. Biomax is a powerful 

filtration material consisting of inert ceramic rings which offer both free 

flowing characteristics to encourage aerobic bacterial action and a finer 

restricted flow pore structure which is excellent for anaerobic bacterial 

activity. This produces ideal conditions for the biological removal of 

ammonia, nitrite and nitrate concentrations in the aquarium. 

The upper level basket receives the water cleansed by the earlier 

processes and is an ideal place for chemical media. Activated carbon is 

offered for this purpose as it efficiently removes discoloration, medications 

and solubilised wastes that the earlier filtration material cannot handle. 

To enhance this last filtration process it is recommended that a polishing 

pad (not included) be used just prior to the chemical media. Quite a large 

variety of different forms of chemical media have been developed for Fluval 

external filters including as well as carbon, Fluval Ammonia Remover and 

Fluval Clearmax to trap phosphate, nitrite and nitrate. Years of research 

and development have resulted also in three of the most powerful 

professional media Hagen has ever produced. Classed as the Lab Series 

these include a Fluval Phosphate Remover, a Fluval Nitrate Remover and 

Fluval OptiCarb a high-capacity research grade carbon blend which 

eliminates odours, discolorants, dissolved proteins and heavy metals. 

An area that must not be over looked also is the opportunity multistage 

filtration provides in being able to precisely control and fine tune water 

characteristics. Materials such as peat granules and other water modifying 

media can also be installed in the upper level basket to allow precise 

management of the water chemistry. 

The Fluval 06 series of multi stage filters includes 

several state of the art new features to ensure 

reliable operation and trouble free maintenance. 

Filters in this series now offer advance pumping 

technology and a versatile combination of 

mechanical, biological and chemical filtering 

capacities. This allows a better opportunity to 

customise the water characteristics of your 

aquarium to meet the specialised needs of your unique collection of fish, 

invertebrates and aquatic plants and create a health thriving environment. 

For further information or to find a local 

stockist visit www.hagen.com 

18

JOIIN IIN THE FUN 

OF 

DIIAMOND JUBIILEE 

YEAR 

This year, we thought we could add an extra dimension to Societies’ Open 

Shows by inviting them to nominate a single ‘Diamond Class’ from amongst 

their usual Show Class list. 

This would be any ‘single fish’ Class of the Society’s choosing, the only 

exception being that it must not be any of the Championship Trophy 

Classes issued for the Show. 

There are no restrictions as to whether Classes are split or not. The Class 

chosen can be a basic Class or a ‘split’ Class – that is, for instance, B 

(Barbs) or Cb (Pencilfish) and so on. 

Winners (and runners up) will qualify for a ‘Diamond Final Round’ at the 

Festival of Fishkeeping at Sand Bay. 

In order to present a reasonable selection of fish on the bench at the end of 

the year, it would be appreciated if Societies didn’t all plump for the same 

Class. To this end, if Societies would care to advise of their nomination of 

Diamond Class together with a reserve choice, an updated selection of 

Classes nominated at Shows can be produced which is fair to all. 

With the Show season due to kick off in just over a month’s time, everyone 

will need to get nominations in as soon as possible. 

19

To make things easier, Classes nominated will be shown on the FBAS 

website and any downloadable Show Schedule will have the relevant Class 

over-printed on the cover – especially where Show Schedules have already 

been submitted and uploaded. 

To date, nominations received are: Bracknell (J), Corby (E), Portsmouth 

(Dc), Port Talbot (Db), Mid-Sussex (C), Middlesex (J) and Hounslow (K). 

Current updates will be posted on the FBAS website as they come in. 

Please send your Diamond Class nomination in to the FBAS webmaster 

or by post to the address as shown for the P.R.O./Webmaster (select 

‘Contacts’ button on the left of the screen). 

Show Secretariies: 

A Diamond Class Judging Sheet and a Diamond Class Return Form 

will be enclosed with your Show Paperwork Pack from the FBAS 

Trophy Officer or you can download them HERE 

Fill in the appropriate Diamond Class Return Form as soon as 

possible after your Open Show to qualify, and reserve space, for the 

Diamond Final Round at Sand Bay later this year. 

THE RETURN FORM SHOULD NOT BE RETURNED TO 

THE FBAS TROPHY OFFI ICER 

BUT TO THE ADDRESS AT THE TOP OF THE FORM 

20

Southend, Leigh & District Aquarist Society 

It is with great sadness that we have to report the death of J.H. Preston, 

Howard to all his many friends and acquaintances in the aquarium hobby 

world. Howard passed away on the 17 th of January 2012 from a stroke. 

Howard was probably best known for his interest in the livebearing fishes, 

their popularisation, the breeding and the dissemination around the UK. 

Also for his pioneering trips to Mexico in the 1970`s to collect wild 

Swordtails and Platies and numerous other livebearers that had never 

before been seen in Europe before his and Chris Lyons trip. The first trip 

involved a flight to New York and then Greyhound buses all the way to 

Mexico City where they hired a car to search for fishes in earnest. 

When they arrived back in the UK the late Dave Cheswright received a 

phone call asking if he had any aquariums free to house some of the 

various fish collected. Many of the species Howard and Chris collected are 

still being bred and maintained by aquarists throughout Great Britain. 

Apart from the fish collecting trips Howard restarted Southend, Leigh & 

District`s Journal in October 1963 only passing the editors chair on when 

he travelled to Mexico; the Journal then carried on until 1985. 

Howard was not the most organised of individuals as visitors to his house 

in Braintree will affirm. He will however be remembered for his willingness 

to help other aquarists whether it was by freely passing on his beloved 

fishes or for example his willingness to stay overnight at several of 

Southend`s Open Shows guarding the exhibits on a Friday night for the 

opening on the Saturday. 

I am sure everyone will join the writer in expressing thanks to Mr & Mrs 

Bernhard Meech who looked out for him after he lost his sight. 

Peter Capon, Southend, Leigh & District Aquarist Society

Shaun McPherson thinks he has the 

answer to this perennial problem 

When my father-in-law’s best Koi was killed we tried to look for solutions online. 

We couldn't find anything that suited his pond, the solutions out there are either 

really big and obtrusive, or ugly and unpractical. Being a welder/fabricator, he 

asked me to fabricate a few different size rings to fix a net to. 

While making this, I didn't like the idea of the net so tried to think of something 

more aesthetic. 

I was busy making steel figurines at the time and thought of a spider’s web. 

In my opinion the spider web is one of nature’s most amazing structures so 

what would be better than that? 

I made this steel spider web 

with no intention of it going 

any further than that. 

Fortunately for me this was 

seen by others and I was 

asked to make another. 

Then we had a baby and the 

design ideas started moving 

towards child protection! 

I took my idea to the Prince’s Trust and was given a small grant to test market 

the idea. It went very well and I started meeting people who were passionate 

about protecting their fish but did not want to ruin the look and hard work they 

put into their ponds. 

22

I had to find out more about Herons and see how they act. These birds are 

extremely clever and tenacious and do not give up without a fight! 

I have watched many YouTube videos of Herons trying to work their way 

through deterrents and have spoken to many people who have unbelievable 

stories of these birds eating/killing their fish. 

I believe my designs work because these animal are so clever and they can 

sense the danger of trying to walk on the bars and sticking their heads through 

the gaps would be an unnecessary risk. These are only my opinions but I am 

very confident in the patterns and designs I have come up with, I also believe 

that the bars flowing in different directions and different angles could possibly 

confuse the bird. My in-laws often see the Heron sitting on the roof or walking 

up to the pond but it then just flies away. 

I have a cover design for almost all types of ponds and the ideas keep growing. 

I recently signed a job in Bournemouth for a cover to protect Koi from Otters. 

Shaun McPherson, Elite Pond Covers http://www.elitepondcovers.com 

23

KNOW YOUR FISH 

HONG KONG PLEC ((Gaassttrromyyzzon punccttul laattuss)) 

This small flat fish is often named as the Hillstream Loach, of the Family 

Balitoridae, not only differs from, but is nothing like any of the other 

Loaches within this Family. 

Though these fish bear a superficial resemblance to the South American 

Loricariidae catfish, they do not appear in the order of Siluriformes but to 

the nearest I can find, being the Suborder Cyprinoidei, Homatopteridae 

which live in the hill streams of India, Southern China, Malaya and 

Indonesia. 

Except for the tail, the underside of an Homatopteriod is flat and smooth, 

much of this surface, forms a sucker that is provided by the lateral 

extensions of the paired fins. 

The forward pectoral rays and most of the 

pelvic rays are thick and flat so they are 

fashioned below into adhesive pads. Using 

the sucker to cling and creep in fast flowing 

waters, they move slowly over the surfaces 

of rounded boulders and stones whilst 

grazing on algae covering them, almost 

becoming a fishy form of limpet. 

24

An observation of Gastromyzon in the wild was carried out by R.F. Inger 

and C.H.Konk in 1961. One can find Borneo Cyprinoids Fishes of the 

genus Gastromyzon within Copeid No 2 pp 166/176. 

These small flat fishes can be found in swift, clear water, with colours of 

either greenish to blackish; ranging between 50 and up to 100mm in length 

they are not easy to see as they dart from rock to rock, or over rounded 

boulders grazing on algae. A giveaway of their presence is small naked 

trails from which they have scrapped the algae bare. 

In the aquarium they require clean well-oxygenated water with a good flow 

around the tank and power heads are excellent for this purpose. 

Temperatures should be on the cool side, not exceeding 75 o F with a pH 

7.5/8.00. Regular water changes are recommended to keep them in good 

condition. 

Feed as you would Loricariids, plenty of greens plus tableted foods and fine 

Daphnia are their favourites. 

Although this is not a catfish, although the common name does imply this, it 

would do well with small catfish that require the same living conditions. 

J.T. Morris N.A.G. (Catfish) 

25

The Interview 

Peter Anderson, 

Chairman, Hounslow & District A.S., 

FBAS Council Member 

Q. How long is it since you started keeping fish? 

A. I have kept fish for over 30 years, since midway through the 1970's 

Q. What made you start? 

A. I have always had an interest in keeping fish, as my Dad kept fish in two 

Iron-framed tanks on a stand. Both my son and daughter won Goldfish 

at a Fair in Amersham, and the rest is history. 

Q. What gave you the idea to join an Aquatic Society? 

A. I heard of an aquatic club in Amersham, about six miles from where I 

live. I liked the friendly atmosphere and members willing to exchange 

their experiences with me. 

Q. What do you think has made the biggest impact and helped the 

advancement of our hobby? 

A. Well, so much information is now available on the internet, whether 

aquatic technology or just fish keeping inquiries; for me it’s made our 

hobby so much easier to understand. 

Q. Why did you join Hounslow Aquarists Society, bearing in mind it’s some 

25 miles from where you live? 

A. As I have said, I first of all joined a Club that met in Amersham, but 

although I was a member for several years it closed down through a lack 

of members so I had to find another Club to join. 

Q. Do you feel even after travelling to a Club after all these years still does 

something for you as a fishkeeper? 

26

A. Definitely, I am still learning, meeting and helping new members, going 

to Fish Shows, listening to a variety of Speakers on Club nights. 

There is always something new, or different methods, that can be picked 

up from other members. 

Q. What is your favourite aquatic book ? 

A. The Baensch Aquatic Atlas, good pictures and excellent details on 

keeping and breeding many species. 

Q. Has the FBAS done anything to help promote your Club in any way? 

A. As the nearest Club to where the FBAS Assembly Meetings are held we 

get the opportunity to get very involved with FBAS activities. 

Too many in fact to tell you about them all, however many of our 

members are also FBAS Council members and as a Club we help out 

with the FBAS Middlesex Show, London Pet Show at Earls Court and 

the Aquatic Live Show at Olympia. If that's not enough, many of us take 

part in the FBAS Festival of Fishkeeping - a three-day event at Weston 

Super Mare. 

Q. As an FBAS Council member, what do you think it can it do to help 

the aquatic hobby? 

A. We run an excellent website that is full of information, and that is always 

updated on a regular basis, plus the Bulletin that you are reading now. 

We supply affiliated Clubs with free-hire videos to show their members 

on their own Club nights. I would advise anyone who has an interest in 

keeping fish whether you have one aquarium (or a dozen) to get on to 

our website and join a Club - I tell you, it’s great. 

Q. Well Peter, thank you for answering my questions, you certainly seem a 

very happy fishkeeper. Lastly looking back over the time that you have 

been in the hobby, what would you say has been the biggest highlight of 

the years you have been in the hobby?. 

A. For me, although it may seem strange, being Chairman of my Club is a 

real pleasure. We live in a world where hobbies are under so much 

pressure, where work ethic is totally changed over the years. 

How many employees can guarantee they can go to a Club every 

fortnight at 8pm escaping from TV, Internet, pressure of work plus 

financial restrictions all competing with ones out of hours free time? 

There is a lot to be said for those who go out in either the cold or wet 

to meet others with similar interests. 

Peter, I could not add anymore, but to say thank you. Editor 

27

Jelly Bean 

Tetra - 

Ladigesia 

roloffi 

This fabulous little Characin being only 30mm (1.2”) SL originating from the 

Ivory Coast / Sierra Leone in Africa makes the ideal fish for those having 

small all-glass aquaria that seem to be so popular with aquarists that prefer 

a feature item in their home as opposed to a standard aquarium. A fish that 

likes soft water that has a tanned look created by some peat within the filter 

system. 

In these small aquaria, plant such species as Cryptocoryne nevillii or 

Sagittaria subulata often called Dwarf Sagittaria. If none of these are 

available you can use a floating plant like Riccia fluitans that would give 

shade that this little fish likes. 

Equally, when breeding this species only a small aquaria is required, say 

30cm x 10cm furnished with a dark colour gravel, even black, add plenty of 

plant plus some wool mops for your fish to lay their eggs in. You can even 

cover the gravel with some dark green mesh so the eggs fall through out of 

the way of the adult fish who would love to gobble them up! The water 

should be soft (try filtered rain water at a temperature of 80 o -84 o F). A small 

air-powered sponge filter bubbling away will be great to maintain a small 

turnover of water. 

You need to feed the adults well ahead of spawning on crushed flake, Brine 

Shrimp, sifted Daphnia and Whiteworm. Their size makes them hard to sex 

although females do get plumper prior to spawning, so I would recommend 

you place at least half a dozen adults in the breeding tank to be sure, plus 

they also like to spawn in groups. During spawning you can now notice the 

males by their higher density of colour. The eggs will hatch within 24/36 

hours and the fry will be free swimming in 3/4 days. 

28

Of course, due to the small size of the adult fish the fry are really tiny, yes I 

mean really tiny. This means you will have to feed them on infusoria for at 

least a couple of weeks until they are able to except Microworm and newlyhatched 

Brine Shrimp. These small fish seem to produce only about 20 to 

30 youngsters at any one spawning, possible due to the small size of the 

adult fish. 

Iss I Theerree CROCODIILE in i yyourr ffrrontt gaarrdeen? 

Not many of us would think of 

keeping a crocodile, let alone 

having one in your front garden. 

However I caught this crocodile, not 

only in someone’s front garden, but 

in a street right in the heart of 

London’s West End - in fact in 

Duke Street, a turning off of Oxford 

Street. 

Well, thank goodness it was tied up 

with a chain and padlock, even 

better that it was a replica, a very 

good one at that, made out of 

concrete. 

It sure looked impressive, complete 

with splashing water and a warning 

notice for those who may just have 

thought it to be a live specimen. 

Good job it was behind iron railings for those who stopped to admire such 

an undertaking and for the safety of the crocodile! 

If you have seen some odd garden images please send them to the Editor 

29

The area for 

aquatic plant-lovers 

Spring is the right time for Pond-Side planting 

Within the next two or three weeks, marginal plants will appear in your local 

garden centre or aquatic outlet. If your plants look a bit over-grown, or you 

have gaps that when filled would improve the look of your pond, now is the 

time to purchase some new plants before the summer months. 

Those with natural ponds made of clay often find that water permeating the 

surrounding areas after heavy rain creates ideal conditions for moisture 

loving plants. With this area looking quite open, due to any original 

marginal plants dying back through the winter months it will give you the 

chance to replant these areas and beyond, expanding the palette of your 

planting. 

30

The feathery Arunculus both 

complements, and sets off, the 

lower planting at the water’s edge. 

You will find the long-flowering 

burgundy Lysimachia 

atropurpurea starts to flower from 

May, having grey/green foliage 

growing to a height of 60cm with a 

spread of up to 50cm. 

Shady pond side areas require the use of 

lush foliage plants, such as Rheum’s, 

Ferns, Hostas and Ligularias whilst sunnier 

spaces would suit Lysimachia, Eupatoriums 

(below), Rushes as well as shrubs like 

many of the Cornus. 

But a plant for the back of your pond, possible 

against a wall is Darmera peltata growing up to 

two metres tall and having rounded heads of 

pinky white flowers that appear before the 

foliage in late Spring, these being large leaves 

growing up to 45cm across, which turn to a 

striking deep red in autumn. If you cannot find 

this plant, try the large-leaved Hosta “Big Daddy” 

or “Krossa Regal.” 

For those that like the 

foliage of the “Bullrush” 

(left) - which are such 

ferocious growers and 

whose roots can penetrate 

a liner - then try the 

miniature less-invasive 

species Typha minima 

(right) grown in a block 

reaching a height of only 

30/40cm. 

31

In areas close to, but not in, the pond 

you can dig out channels of up to 

30cm wide and nearly the same 

depth then place more liner or even 

"bin bags" so they hold water (but not 

completely water-tight) and refill with 

well- rotted compost with enriched 

soil like a loam that will hold water 

and stay moist. 

These areas can contain many plants that add to look of your pond without 

needing to have their roots submerged and so encroach into the valuable 

water space. Plants like Iris, Hostas, Butomus umbelliatus, Zantedeschia 

aethiopica and Houttuynia. 

Inside the pond edge more 

fully aquatics can be placed 

in baskets such as 

Aponogeton distachyos 

with long elongated green 

floating leaves and white 

waxy, vanilla-scented 

flowers. But also it’s time to 

cut back any that has overgrown 

the water surface, 

remove it from its container 

cut back the root system by 

using a sharp spade if 

necessary and replant in 

fresh aquatic soil, obtainable from aquatic centres along with some clay 

made into small balls and placed around the roots. 

Now dust off your best garden chair and watch all the wonderful things that 

happen in and around your pond. 

Article by Mark Goss inspired by Joe Swift (Gardeners World April 2011) 

32

Congo Tettra Phenacogrammus blleherii 

Just the name of a fish having the common name Congo Tetra fills an 

aquarist with excitement before one even sees this wonderful Characin. 

With the majority of Characins originating from South America, a Characin 

coming from Africa fills one with excitement. If you have not seen this fish 

in real life when you do you will not be disappointed. These fish can be 

seen in most aquatic retail outlets, so for a relatively common fish in our 

shops they still demand a high price. 

The metallic scales comprising of 

blue and yellow hues with sunlight 

on them is a sight to behold. 

With a handful of species that can 

be called Congo Tetras 

Phenacogrammus interruptus 

(Boulenger 1899) is the most 

common. 

Sexing is quite easy in adults 

specimens, males being larger in 

size (60cm) than females with fin 

extensions often looking ragged, but 

this is their natural appearance. 

Females are smaller and slightly 

less intense in colour having natural 

looking finage without extensions. 

Congos. as the name suggests. are found in the Equator Province of Zaire. 

33 

Other species known to science 

are, P. altus (Boulenger 1899), 

easy separated from P. interruptus 

by a black spot on the caudal 

peduncle, although having similar 

body colour but has red dorsal, 

adipose and caudal finnage.

Poll revised the family Phenacogrammus along with other African Alestinae 

in 1967. Heiko Bleher collected fish from the poorly know regions of 

Northern Zaire collecting from Lake Fwe in the Kassi Province and the 

Basin of Oubangui in 1986. 

Whilst collecting P. interruptus along with P. ansorgii Heiko also discovered 

a new beauty, a totally metallic blue Congo Tetra. 

This new species was 

appropriately named 

Phenacogrammus bleheri n sp. 

It has the same body shape and 

finage as P. interruptus, but its 

blue/purple iridescent colour sure 

has the “wow” factor. 

The holotype being a male 63mm SL collected from a small tributary of the 

Bari river in Zaire on 11th September 1986. Three females were also 

collected at the same time ranging in size from 47mm to 60mm SL. 

The photograph taken by Heiko Bleher at the moment of collection shows 

its outstanding colour of bluish/violet iridescent sheen over the whole body. 

P. bleheri belongs to the Hilgendorfi group of the former genus 

Alestopetersius, still of uncertain taxonomic level. Poll (1967) recognised 6 

species from the Zaire Basin and one being Phenacogrammus smykalai 

found in the region of the Lower Niger. 

Original manuscript : J. Gery Chemin du Plantier, 24200 sarlat, France. 

First published : aqua Journal of Ichthyology and Aquatic Biology Vol (4) 

Pictures: Blue Congo Phenacogrammus bleheri n sp. Photo: H. Bleher 

Red Finned Congo P. altus: 

Top adult male; below female collected by H. Bleher. 

Photo: B. Kahl. 

Congo Tetra P. interruptus: male and female Photos: Dick Mills 

34

Fish suitable for the tropical aquarium all come from freshwaters between 

the two tropics of Cancer and Capricorn situated in South America, India, 

South-east Asia and Africa, right? This not need be the general rule, as 

many species from more temperate zones fare equally well in your tank. 

As you pass by on your way to Disney World Florida, or through any of the 

near-south States of the United States, it’s easy to forget, even if you are a 

fishkeeper, that there’s a wealth of fishes living locally that could grace your 

tank back at home – mind you, a visit to one of the excellent public 

aquariums along the way will soon put you right. 

Whilst Mexico is well-known as home to several live-bearing species, the 

southern eastern States of America (from almost New Jersey downwards) 

provide egg-laying species worthy of tank-space. 

For starters, what could be more 

appropriate than the American Flag 

Fish, Jordanella floridae? Although 

quite dissimilar in build, the Flag 

Fish is closely-related to Killifishes. 

It’s a stocky fish, reaching about 

60mm, with a greenish body covered 

horizontally with several rows of 

small red dots. Both sexes have a 

dark blotch midway along the flanks 

and the female has another dark blotch at the rear end of the dorsal fin. 

The male, whose colours intensify during spawning, can be further 

recognised by the covering of red dots in the dorsal fin. 

35

Some report it to be a little pugnacious but generally it is a good community 

fish. Water conditions are not particularly critical and some algae in the 

tank may be appreciated. 

Although often described as laying its eggs in a pit in the substrate, it also 

spawns amongst plants where the sticky eggs soon get attached to the 

leaves of any feathery-leaved plant such as Java Moss, Vesicularia 

dubyana, or Myriophyllum. The eggs take around a week to ten days to 

hatch (time varies with temperature) and the parents guard the brood to 

some extent. Raise the fry with the usual micro-foods and newly-hatched 

Brine Shrimp at first before gradually increasing the food particle size. 

A more recognisable Killifish is the 

Bluefin, Lucania goodei. Reaching 

60mm, this fish is also a native to 

Florida and neighbouring Georgia. 

The male has an orange-based 

bright blue dorsal fin and red caudal 

fin. The female has plain fins but 

both fish show a dark zig-zagging 

dark line along the flanks, that of the 

male is more accentuated. 

This is another plant spawner but is said to a trifle delicate and not like 

being moved around too much, nor to have too warm a temperature. 

Just as decorative is the Red 

Shiner, Cyprinella lutrensis. 

It reaches 80mm and has 

stunning colouration especially 

when breeding. The male is 

violet with bright red fins and 

develops breeding tubercles 

on the head and pelvic fins 

when in season. 

Again, this is a cooler water fish. This species is widely distributed on the 

central plains area of Northern America, from Illinois down to Texas. 

36

Other favourite Cyprinids include the Red-belly Dace, Phoxinus 

erythrogaster (above, left) and the Fathead Minnow, Pimephales promelas 

(above, right). The former species is found in the very central States – 

Pennsylvania, Michigan, Minnesota, Alabama and Mississippi. 

The Fathead Minnow, the yellow form is most popular, ranges from Quebec 

to Alberta in Canada and down through Central America to Mexico. 

Particularly colourful are Darters. 

Bottom-dwelling, and Goby-like in 

their appearance and movements, 

they make short darting, ‘stopstart’ 

movements using their 

caudal and pectoral fins. The 

genus Etheostoma has over 90 

species with the Rainbow Darter, 

E. caeruleum being a typically 

popular example. 

The Pirate Perch, Aphredoderus 

sayanus, is a monotypic genus 

having but one species. It does 

exhibit a remarkable physical 

characteristic as it matures: its 

vent, initially situated ahead of the 

anal fin, moves further forward 

along the body to a position just 

ahead of the pelvic girdle. This is 

another wide-ranging species from 

Long Island in the north right down 

to Southern Florida. It tends to hide up during the day amongst debris and 

litter on the substrate, becoming more active at night. 

37

Sunfishes are popular with anglers as well as with aquarium owners. 

These fish range in size from 40-250mm. 

The smallest of the Sunfishes, 

Pygmy Sunfish, Elassoma 

evergladei, at 40mm, is best 

suited to a species tank due to its 

diminutive size. The male darkens 

intensively when breeding. These 

fish are said not to eat their own 

eggs during spawning. 

The Black-banded Sunfish, 

Enneacanthus chaetodon, is a 

small, deep-bodied fish which 

again has excellent colouration 

when in breeding condition. 

The male has four black bands 

crossing the bodily vertically; the 

first rays of the dorsal and pelvic 

fins of the male are bright orange. 

The much larger Pumpkinseed, 

Lepomis gibbosus, could be 

kept in the pond during summer 

months. Sunfishes build nests 

on the substrate in which eggs 

are deposited. 

There is an ear-like extension to 

the rear of the gill cover which 

may appear more reddish in the 

male fish but otherwise sex 

differentiation can be difficult. 

Note: Due to legislation, licences are necessary to stock and/or keep 

certain (if not all) of the native American Fishes. 

38

BREEDING 

GOLDFISH 

Whilst many of us possibly 

kept Goldfish in our infant 

days of keeping fish, to 

successfully breed Goldfish 

is a specialist subject. 

Many Goldfish we keep are in our garden ponds, and you may well say 

they breed all the time, more so as the warm weather settles in. However 

breeding Goldfish to a Showing standard requires a lot of work. 

The first necessity is to obtain good stock. This can be done by joining a 

specialist society, for example, the Goldfish Society of Great Britain, and 

then attending their annual Show. The FBAS Festival of Fishkeeping held 

annually has part of its Show devoted to Goldfish of all shapes and sizes, 

this part of the event is run by the Goldfish Society of Great Britain and 

many of its members are on hand to give you advice and help. Start off by 

looking at the Classes and deciding which species that takes your eye, 

possibly some you have never seen before. 

Goldfish like space, so give them as much tank space as you can arrange. 

A good start would be at least four tanks being 3ft long, plus two more 

tanks 4ft in length and up to 18 inches wide to grow fry in. 

If you are making these yourself the fry tanks only need to be some 10 

inches deep. Keep your adult stock to no more than three fish to each of 

the 3ft tanks. Leave the tanks bare with no plants and no gravel, as much 

as you may not approve, but it makes siphoning water off each day more 

easy and this needs to be two gallons each time (into a 2 gallon bucket). 

If you use a large internal filter in each of the adult-keeping tanks, your set 

up will remain clear and clean. 

In late autumn, say November and December, start feeding your adult fish. 

Although I feed my fish as well as I can all year round and I do have 

heaters in my tanks with the thermostats turned right down. They run at 

around 60 o F during those cold winter days. 

39

I use foods such as chopped up garden worms or whole smaller ones, plus 

Whiteworm and Daphnia if you can get them. I put a flat bottom container 

on my pathway next to my lawn and the worms collect under it without me 

having to dig any up. With this heavy feeding you can see why it is 

necessary to carry out water changes every day. 

As the weather gets warmer and the weather improves, around now to 

early April, your adults should be ready for breeding. Place a pair in a tank 

that receives a lot of light. Use a spawning medium such as wool mops, 

plus plants like Willowmoss, Hornwort etc. 

The water 

temperature 

should now be 

near 65 o F. 

Once the pair 

have spawned 

with eggs being 

seen in the plants 

and/or wool mops, 

remove the adults 

into a separate 

tank to recover. 

Raise the temperature in the spawning tank to 70 o F and once the fry are 

free-swimming feed them on Brine Shrimp. As the fry grow, sort them out 

for any mis-shaped ones (and any ‘single-tails’ in fish that should be twintailed) 

and cull. Often your local shop will be pleased to take them off your 

hands. 

Feeding should continue with small-sized Daphnia or chopped Whiteworm, 

plus same small amounts of dry food. Allow about thirty fry to be reared in a 

3ft tank, and as the fry grow reduce this number. Most importantly, do not 

raise any more fish than you can house in the tanks and space available. 

40

DON’T JUST CONGREGATE – 

COMMUNICATE! 

Throughout the year, hundreds of 

fishkeepers transport thousands of 

fishes to a variety of venues in search 

of those elusive, exclusive Trophies, 

whose ownership proclaims their 

fishkeeping prowess to the world. 

You can not but praise the dedication of the competing fraternity as they 

constantly strive for perfection with their exhibits; it is this keenness to 

present the best - and often the newest - fishes that perpetuates the 

interest amongst other hobbyists too, as they are able to see virtually the 

whole range of available species in tip-top condition. 

However, there seems to be a different ‘atmosphere’ depending on what 

type of Show you are attending. Take, for instance, ‘specialist’ Shows 

where the subject of interest has been perhaps only one family of fish 

rather than a cross section of the whole range of fishes within a discipline. 

Get amongst such people - whether they be Discus, Goldfish, Koi, Cichlid, 

Killifish or Catfish fanciers (apologies to any left out) - and there’s a 

constant buzz of conversation on all aspects of keeping and breeding. 

At the general tropical Shows, the only time you get to see people is at 

benching (“don’t talk to me, I’ve got 30 fish to bench!”) and de-benching 

(“don’t talk to me, I’ve got 30 fish to de-bench!”). In between, the 

competitors are off away from the Show Hall to local retail aquatic outlets, 

the pub, shopping malls or whatever. Striking up a conversation with the 

owner of a fish you’d like to know more about is becoming a lost art. 

Consequently, the ideal opportunity for the exchange of any practical 

information between fishkeepers is, apparently, being ignored. Gone are 

the days when successful breeders liked to keep their ‘secrets’ so why isn’t 

there more knowledge to be learned at Shows? 

Surely fishkeepers have nothing to impart to each other; are they all 

gleaning their information off the Internet in darkened rooms late at night? 

Come on, take a leaf out of the specialists’ books and ‘talk fish’ rather than 

just moan that ‘old so and so’s won again’! 

41

Website copy BOOKING FORM 

Festival of Fishkeeping & Water Gardening Weekend 

26th, 27 th , & 28 th October 2012 

Sand Bay Leisure Resort, 67 Beach Road, Kewstoke, Weston Super Mare, 

North Somerset BS22 9UR 

Number of people between the following ages. (Age at date of weekend) 

Under 

2 

2 - 4 5-9 10 - 15 16 - 17 18 - 25 26 - 44 45 - 59 60+ Total 

Persons 

Name of Society if any I / We would 

prefer bed type 

Mr 

Mrs 

Miss 

First Name of 

Person Responsible 

Noted but not 

Guaranteed 

Total 

Rooms 

Chalets 

Please 

Tick if 

Disabled 

Please tick if 

Wheelchair Ramp 

is needed 

Single Twin Double Accommodation Please Circle Please Circle 

Surname 

Address 

If accommodation type is 

fully booked, I Will accept 

the nearest alternative 

Mobile/Telephone Number: 

Yes No Bath Shower 

Child sharing your room, 

Some two room chalets 

available with 

3 single beds 

Tariff Please indicate the number of nights → Three Nights Two Nights 

Adults 

16+ 

Children 

10 - 15 Years 

Children 

5-9 Years 

Children 

2 - 4 Years 

Ground Floor Room 

Infants 

Under 2 Years 

Two Night Weekend Two Night Weekend Two Night Weekend Two Night Weekend Two Night Weekend 

£110.00 pp £60.00 pp £40.00 pp £20.00 pp Free 

Three Night Weekend Three Night Weekend Three Night Weekend Three Night Weekend Three Night Weekend 

£130.00 pp £80.00 pp £50.00 pp £25.00 pp Free 

Deposit & Insurance Premiums 

I ENCLOSE THE REQUIRED DEPOSIT £............IN TOTAL AT £20 PER PERSON 

BALANCE IN FULL TO BE PAID BY 1 st SEPTEMBER 2012 

PLEASE MAKE ALL CHEQUES PAYABLE TO FBASTHANK YOU 

INSURANCE TO COVER SICKNESS ONLY WITH A DOCTORS CERTIFICATE 

PREMIUM £.......... IN TOTAL AT £4.50 PER PERSON 

FOR ALL PERSONS OVER 16 YEARS OLD. 

INSURANCE PREMIUMS MUST BE PAID AT THE TIME OF BOOKING 

REQUIRED / NOT REQUIRED 

SIGNATURE:............................................Date:............................……... 

DECLARATION 

I HAVE READ THE CONDITIONS SET OUT ON THIS FORM AND AGREE ON BEHALF OF ALL PERSONS NAMED 

ABOVE TO ABIDE BY THESE CONDITIONS. I ACCEPT THE CHARGES FOR THE ACCOMMODATION AND AGREE 

TO PAY THE BALANCE BY THE 1 ST SEPTEMBER 2012 

SIGNATURE............................................................................................... 

Please return the completed form with your deposit or full amount whichever is applicable to: 

Grace Nethersell, 8 Acacia Avenue, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 8NR. 

Telephone: 020 8847 3586

Sand Bay,, Weston--super--Mare 

26--28 tthh October 2012 

To some, it must have felt that the ending of the Festival of Fishkeeping at 

Sand Bay last year never happened for immediately afterwards planning 

swung into action for this year’s event. 

Obviously, with 2011 being our first time back at Sand Bay after an interval 

of several years, we needed to re-acquaint ourselves with the location and 

take into account any changes that had been made in our absence. 

As those who attended the event will have discovered, things went 

extremely smoothly and the re-arrangement of the marquee-covered 

exhibition areas from their previous design resulted in a much more 

intimate atmosphere for the many aquatics attractions on display. 

We can report that, as you can see from the heading on this page , we 

have been very fortunate in attracting good encouragement from our 

friends in the Trade and the number of supporting Companies has risen, 

with the notable inclusion of Watermarque from Taunton. Visitors will 

remember the excellent selection of fish that they brought along and will be 

on the lookout for more of the same later this year. 

43

Always one to play it cool, the event’s Organiser, Joe Nethersell, says that 

there are other innovations in the pipeline one of which will hopefully 

include a ‘hands on’ Competition with a difference. 

With the rising popularity of ‘nano’ tanks we are planning to stage a 

Furnished Nano Aquarium feature that will be open to ‘Ladies Only’ – 

let’s see if they can beat the men at their own game! Watch this space, 

and the FBAS website, for developing news on this topic. 

Also, just for this year, we are building up the excitement to stage the Final 

Round’ of the Olympic Classes from Societies’ Open Shows (see 

elsewhere in this issue). 

All in all, things look good for the Festival, so don’t miss out on reserving 

your accommodation by the end of March, when the accommodation 

options held by previous residents expire. With the weekend being shared 

by our Coach-driving friends, you will need to make sure of your place at 

the Festival without delay 

You can download a Booking form from the FBAS website and Grace 

Nethersell will be delighted to process your bookings just as soon as you 

can get them to her! 

Full details of the Festival and accommodation reservations from: 

Grace Nethersell on 020 8847 3586 or gracenethersell@gmail.com 

www.martynleisurebreaks.co.uk 

44

FROM THE 2012 CHAIIRMAN OF 

THE J & S 

Hello all, I’m Keith !!! … 

As some of you probably know by now I have been 

asked to Chair, and form, the Judges & Standards 

Committee for 2012. 

It’s a great honour to be asked and one that I have accepted. 

I would like to thank Peter Cottle who has held the position for a number of 

years and done an excellent job with his vast experience and knowledge 

..thanks Pete. Also I would like to thank all his Committee for the positions 

they held, and for the work they have done. 

The Judges that I have asked to join me on my Committee are all well 

known to all: Colin Pannell, Paul Corbett, Alan Stevens, Les Pearce all past 

members of the J & S. There is a new member in Dave Nice and I have 

asked Bob Esson to take on the post of Secretary again. 

Myself, I have been a Federation A Class Judge since June 1980, where 

have the last 32 years gone? I live in Ipswich, and was involved for many 

years with the now defunct Suffolk Aquarists and Pondkeepers Association. 

I am now the Secretary of Norwich AS and also their FBAS Delegate. 

Over the years I have made many friends in the aquatic hobby and would 

like to thank them for the support that was shown over my car accident way 

back last August. I am still having treatment and still not driving, it’s a good 

job I am old enough to have a bus pass!! 

I hope that support for the Open Shows continue to increase, and that the 

new Olympic Classes get well supported. 

Good luck and best wishes to you all for a great 2012. 

Keith Cocker, Chairman J & S 

45

New to You? 

The nexx Step in 

Filtration 

No, not a ‘typo’ in the heading, 

but actually the name of a new 

filtration system from the 

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals-Aquarian-Rena group. 

Described as an ‘Evolution in Filtration’ this new external filtration system 

certainly attracts attention both from its visual impact and from its 

possibilities as an extendable system. 

Intriguingly, servicing and adding/removing additional sections can be 

made without interrupting the action of the filter. This is made possible by 

clever ‘pipework’ connections and not having any motor within the filter 

body itself. 

This is the basic module, containing two filter mediaequipped 

canisters. 

The input and output connectors can be seen as 

yellow plugs at the base. The yellow handle at the top 

serves to lock the lids to the removable filter sections. 

Water is pumped from the aquarium through hoses 

from what can be best described as a mini-pond pump 

sitting in the main tank. 

Here’s how the system gets extended. You simply 

plug consecutive units together! 

Each unit’s base acts as a connecting cradle and the 

water flows to and from each unit in a parallel fashion. 

Each unit can be ‘unplugged’ from its cradle whilst still 

in use with no spillage of water occurring. 

Should the units become clogged a bypass allows 

water to continue back to the main tank 

46

This is a view of an actual set-up 

in situ beneath a large aquarium. 

Water is fed down from the tank and 

back up to it by unobtrusive pipework 

from the rear of the cabinet. 

In the foreground, a new pair of filter 

inserts can be seen. The handle has 

been rotated by 90 o to facilitate 

removal of each unit. 

Within each section there is a 

custom-designed clip-on ‘basket that 

contains the filter media module of 

your choice. 

Obviously with this extendable 

flexibility, you can use quite a varied 

range of filter media all at the same 

time. 

For full details of the nexx Filter, please visit: 

http://aquariumpharm.com 

47

At present, there appears to be a 

considerable number of nano tanks 

flooding the aquatic market, the Fluval 

‘Edge’ springs to mind. 

I love the idea of these tiny biotopes 

especially with space and affordability at 

such a premium these days. 

by Kevin King, 

Hounslow & D.A.S. 

Just before Christmas, whilst passing my local florist, I noticed some really 

unique lantern candle holders. They were pagoda style, well-decorated in 

natural wood with oriental fretwork trellis top and bottom along all four 

sides. Even unpainted, the lanterns looked a bit special and I saw 

immediately the fishy potential and a smart project in the making, 

There were two different designs on display, the taller one tapered towards 

the top, which was a bit of a shame it didn’t allow the potential of installing 

a tank within, the smaller design, however, would prove ideal as it was 

square with a suitable hinged lid. I paid rather begrudgingly £35 quid for the 

lantern and struggled home with it dangling from the handlebars of my 

mountain bike - thankfully the journey was short and without incident 

Later at home I removed the spiked candle-holder from the base and slid 

out the plastic sides and set about how to enhance the exterior. 

48

Not wishing to digress from the Chinese theme, I opted for primary colours, 

red, black and gold with a hint of gold for luxury, this should work well. 

A quick scour of the shed revealed that I 

already had these colours in gloss so all I 

needed to buy was the gold! The first pot 

I purchased did not have the desired 

effect being too ‘coppery’ so I later 

changed it for a brighter type in the Revel 

range. My son Morgan enjoyed helping 

me paint the exterior and despite a few 

spillages, between us we managed to 

accomplish a satisfactory finish! 

I happened to have a tube light fitting and lamp that I had previously 

purchased; the tube light needed re-wiring in order for it to be fitted into the 

underside of the hood but the task did not prove too technical. 

The (cabinet) hood had four bored-out holes in the roof which bled out light 

as mini-spotlights so to remedy this I simply painted red gloss onto some 

A4 paper, laminated it and cut into strips and glued them over the holes in 

the roof; being behind the fretwork, it also gave things a nice warm glow. 

The size of tank needed to occupy the cabinet was not standard, the 

cabinet being 26”x 9” requiring the tank to be made to measure. 

It was time to call on the expert services of Brian Chittenden at Spa Glass - 

he supplies professionally-built show tanks of all shapes and sizes. I 

phoned him up with the dimensions and he duly obliged; at the end of 

January, my long-suffering wife and I travelled up by train from London to 

Leamington Spa and collected the tank which had been equipped with 

sliding glass lids and even a hole drilled into one of the ledges to 

accommodate an air line tube. 

Although I had double-checked the measurements, I was still apprehensive 

as to whether it would fit in the cabinet - luckily it did and I was soon 

eagerly contemplating the interior, with ‘contemplate’ being the operative 

word as I had already had some strong ideas as regards the décor. 

Being fairly new to keeping Shrimp I had learned that the Chinese have 

recently started to keep, breed and show their native freshwater Shrimps in 

a manner pretty much similar to the way the Japanese deal with their Koi, 

and many of the Shows and exhibitions can be viewed on line on YouTube 

if one knows where to search. 

49

In terms of materials I already had the 

required resin Buddha which would be my 

central theme. However, a few test runs 

proved it to be on too small a scale so I was 

forced to buy a more suitable-sized one on 

eBay. 

In keeping with the style, I planned to use 

green bamboo for the backdrop. As we had a 

pot full of bamboo growing in our front garden 

a few clippings later supplied just enough! 

Not wishing to clutter up the space with an 

internal power filter, I opted for a simple but 

effective undergravel Goldfish bowl filter 

purchased on-line for around £5. The uplift 

pipe comes equipped with a handy disposable 

cartridge containing carbon granules which will 

be handy for maintaining water quality. 

Placing this on the bare tank bottom, I added 

some mature filter medium consisting of 

porous ceramic rings which, according to the 

advertising, increases the surface area for 

maximum helpful bacterial colonisation. 

On top of this I added 4” of black gravel which I had been given free for 

helping out at the last Olympia Fish keeping Exhibition. Some tiny clay pots 

would be home to some Marimo Moss Balls which are native flora to 

Chinese rivers and bob about in turbulent water – I always adopt the 

phrase ‘A Rolling Moss gathers No Stones’ whenever I see these, but in 

this case some cocktail sticks pushed through helps secure them into their 

pots making them look like manicured topiary bushes. 

The minimal space left dictated that a slow growing hardy plant such as 

Java Fern should add a little Eastern Promise, so I duly added a couple of 

rooted sprigs stolen from my wife’s 4ft tank These were planted either side 

of the Buddha in order to hide the view of the filter’s uplift pipe. 

50

I then added a couple of Endlers to speed up the maturing process with the 

view of adding the Shrimps at a later date. 

All in all, this 

has proved a 

worthwhile 

project and all 

that have seen 

it approve. 

51

SHOW & EVENTS DI IARY 2012 

(full details can be found on FBAS website www.fbas.co.uk ) 

FBAS ASSEMBLY 2pm (tel:01424 431016) 3/3/12 

NW CICHLID GROUP Auction 4/3/12 

S COUNTIES CICHLID GROUP Meeting 4/3/12 

SHEAF VALLEY A.S. Auction 11/3/12 

CATFISH STUDY GROUP Convention 16-18 th /3/12 

GOLDFISH SOCIETY OF GREAT BRITAIN AGM 17/3/12 

BIRTLEY A.S. Open Show & Auction CANCELLED 18/3/12 

BRITISH LIVEBEARER ASSOCIATION Auction 25/3/12 

MID-SUSSEX A.S. Open Show 1/4/12 

KIRKCALDY A.S. Open Show & Auction 1/4/12 

SOLWAY A.S. AUCTION 1/4/12 

WEST LONDON KILLIFISH Auction 15/4/12 

WASHINGTON A.S.P. Open Show & Auction 15/4/12 

GT MANCHESTER CICHLID SOCIETY Auction 15/4/12 

CATFISH STUDY GROUP Meeting 15/4/12 

CASTLEFORD A.S. Open Show and Auction 22/4/12 

HOUNSLOW & D.A.S. Bring ‘n Buy 25/4/12 

PORTSMOUTH A.S. Open Show 29/4/12 

B.C.A. CONVENTION DAY 6/5/12 

GOLDFISH SOCIETY GREAT BRITAIN Meeting 12/5/12 

LONDON PET SHOW, EARLS COURT TWO 12-13/5/12 

CORBY & D.A.S. Open Show 13/5/12 

RYEDALE A.S. Fun Day 13/5/12 


GLENROTHES A.S. Open Show & Auction 20/5/12 

S.T.A.M.P.S. Open Show & Auction 20/5/12 

SOUTHEND, L & D.A.S. Open Show 26/5/12 


B.K.A. Charity Auction 3/6/12 

BRACKNELL A.S. Open Show 10/6/12 

DERWENTSIDE A.S. Auction 10/6/12 

SHEAF VALLEY A.S. Evening Auction 11/6/12 


A.M.G.K. (Goldfish) Open Show & Auction 23/6/12 

UNION OF SCOTTISH AQUARISTS Open Show & Auction 24/6/12 

FBAS MIDDLESEX Open Show 1/7/12 

WEST LOTHIAN A.S. Auction 1/7/12 

YAAS OPEN SHOW 1/7/12 

52

N.W.CICHLID GROUP Auction 1/7/12 

GOLDFISH SOCIETY OF GREAT BRITAIN Meeting 7/8/12 

CATFISH & LOACH Show and Auction 8/7/12 

N.E.GOLDFISH SOCIETY Open Show 15/7/12 

N.E.Y.G.B.K.A. Killifish Show & Auction 15/7/12 

CATFISH STUDY SOCIETY Meeting 15/7/12 

SOLWAY A.S. Tri-Specialist Show 15/7/12 

S.C.C.R.S. Open Show 15/7/12 

PORT TALBOT A.S. Open Show 21/7/12 

CLUB 2000 Open Show & Auction 29/7/12 


FRIENDS OF YORKSHIRE Open Show & Auction 12/8/12 

PERTH A.S. Open Show & Auction 12/8/12 

THREE COUNTIES A.S.Open Show 12/8/12 

CASTLEFORD AS. Auction 7.30pm 15/8/12 

BRISTOL A.S. (GOLDFISH) Open Show 18/8/12 


DERWENTSIDE A.S. Open Show 26/8/12 


NORTHERN GOLDFISH & P.S. Open Show 8/9/12 

FED. SCOTTISH A.S. Auction 9/9/12 

RYEDALE A.S. Open Show & Auction 9/9/12 

HOUNSLOW & D.A.S. Open Show NEW VENUE 15/9/12 

CATFISH STUDY GROUP Open Show & Auction 16/7/12 

GOLDFISH SOCIETY OF GREAT BRITAIN Open Show 22/9/12 

PRESTON & D.A.S. Convention 23/9/12 

BASINGSTOKE A.S. Open Show 23/9/12 

FAIR CITY A.S. Open Show & Auction 30/9/12 


SHEAF VALLEY A.S. Open Show Auction 30/9/12 

BKA CONVENTION 5-7/10/12 

SCOTTISH AQUARIST FESTIVAL 7/10/12 

BRITISH LIVEBEARERS ASSOCIATION Convention 11-14/10/12 

KIRKALDY A.S. Auction 14/10/12 


S.T.A.M.P.S. Auction 21/10/12 

FESTIVAL OF FISHKEEPING 26-28/10/2012 

BIRTLEY A.S. Auction 4/11/12 

N.W. CICHLID GROUP 4/11/12 

AQUATICS LIVE! Olympia 10-11/11/12 

BRADFORD A.S. Open Show & Auction 11/11/12 

S.C.C.R.S. Auction 11/11/12 

53

CASTLEFORD A.S. Auction 7.30pm 21/11/12 


CATFISH STUDY GROUP Christmas Party 9/12/12 

HOUNSLOW & D.A.S. Christmas Party 12/12/12 

MAKE USE OF THE 

FBAS WEBSITE 

DOWNLOAD FBAS TROPHY 

APPLIICATIION FORMS 

UPLOAD YOUR SOCIIETY’’S 

SHOW SCHEDULE!! 

54

Jelly Bean Tetra - Ladigesia roloffi - Federation of British Aquatic ...

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?